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Leslie's Dumb-Ass Trips presents:
You... Yes, I'm talking to YOU... It's time you were

Paddling through Yakima Canyon

by Leslie Strom

I was having coffee with my friend Reg, chatting about things to do this summer. He said he thought a canoeing trip would be fun but lamented that he wasn't "outdoorsey" (but would like to be), in shape (but would like to get there), and not much of a boater (but was willing to learn) That's a lot of reasons all at once to keep a person from enjoying one of my favorite Dumb-Ass trips (meaning, trips so easy there's no excuse not to) but I think this one could change his attitude.

If you live in the Seattle area, the closest place you can be in Eastern Washington without driving more than two hours is Ellensburg, home of the most funky espresso bars per capita in the state, and gateway to the scenic Yakima Canyon.

I've always been very fond of eastern Washington since I went off to Washington State University in 1972. My first college boyfriend was from Yakima, and visits with his family meant being outside looking for wildlife, or the orchards where they grew apples and cherries. None of those damnable wet evergreen forests to bog through, the heady smell of sage on the high desert, horizons that roll on forever, and a wonderful assortment of birds to flush out and watch. In fact, looking for wildlife in spring and summer is a cinch... you're bound to come across something. Each season has its astonishing offerings of wildlife, plant life, and ways to goof around on the water. the stark winter brings out raptors, with owls sitting on fence posts. Spring brings phenomenal bird watching as golden eagles and a variety of hawks nest and raise their young to the tough task of life at the top of the food chain. The summer's mindless charm invites us to put up a tent, go fish, plop a small boat upstream and guide ourselves through canyons and sandbars lined with creatures out to make a living. Fall paddling is just as nice, though a drier boat is in order.

I first discovered Yakima Canyon on a raptor-watching trip one May with a group from Falcon Research Group (the same people who scrutinize nesting Peregrines through a video camera on the Washington Mutual Tower in Seattle). We caravanned in a day trip to various locations heading East on I-90, making an obligatory stop in Cle Elum at Owens meats for jerky, and spending some very productive time looking for nesting raptors in the cliffs, and marveling at the clouds of busy Cliff swallows.

Overlooking the Yakima river is where we saw some early-season rafters, a good-sized group of people riding in what can only be described as flotation (I don't think there was a legitimate hard-sided craft in the flotilla), hooting and splashing and paddling. Birders tend to not be the hooting types, as it upsets wildlife, but we watched them as they floated far below us, admiring their vantage of the cliffs. We also knew that they probably would not notice the golden eagle aerie revealed by "hawk chalk" staining the cliff outside the opening, and pre-fledging eaglets hopping around on the ledge some hundred feet over their heads. We were dying of envy. I was determined to come back for the jerky, the swallows, the eagles and the river.

I have gone back in summer a number of times. My setup for warm weather is a cheap but workable two-man inflatable I got from Costco, paddles (plus a spare) instead of oars, a PFD and a float cushion, both which get used as seating. I usually swim behind the boat much of the time, anyway. In spring, when the birding is excellent and you'd rather not get wet, a canoe is the better boat to use.

Paddling the Yakima river in summer looks like a family affair where people make a nice camp at Umptanum campground, go upstream and clamber onto anything that floats, and drift a few hours. Many will leave a shuttle at the downstream end, but it's just as common to see people hitchhiking with their rafts on Canyon road. My truck happens to have a boat rack, so I usually take riders.

On a recent trip in March I discovered that the water level is low enough to expose rocks and sandbars. In a raft, "scraping bottom" takes on a very literal meaning, especially because the raft goes a bit soft in the cold water. We were the only ones on the river on a sunny weekday, so hitchhiking up the road took some time. The best plan would be to take two cars and leave one at the take-out. Despite the hold-ups, it's a great time to go there. There is a bit of early mating behavior going on among the birds, and the solitude is wonderful.

Some warnings come with this amenable place:

• Cars that are left on the side of the road will likely be vandalized in summer. Don't leave anything of value in them.
• Each boater must have flotation, no matter how nominal or gratuitous. It's the law, and a good idea. Boating safety rules should apply double to parties with kids. Everyone should know how to swim.I don't mean to sound cavalier about rafting this river; they all deserve respect, care, and preparation.
• Poison oak and poison ivy abound, even at the campground. I've been afflicted with both and it took antihistamine pills for a week to get rid of it each time. Consult your own physician, yadda yadda, but know this can be an issue.

Gear up:

Knowledge:American Canoe Association has a great web site on taking that first canoe trip and canoe clubs in your area. Boats: Decent inflatables are available at Costco, GI Joe's. Don't be tempted by the price and buy the Coleman canoe at Costco... the hull design is a poor compromise so they track poorly and are hard to paddle. Try to buy a better one used, or rent one. Clothing: High top shoes for when you're on land. Teva-like sandals are nice on the water. Synthetic polar fleece outerwear dries quickly and is the greatest fabric ever made. Ironically, don't forget rain gear. Plan to get wet, anyway.

The Mountaineer's Club list of Ten Essentials: Extra clothing, extra food, sunglasses, knife, fire starter, first aid kit, matches in waterproof container, flashlight, map, compass (and know how to use it). Add to the usual first aid stuff: Snake bit kit (Don't worry about it. But do carry one.), Antihistamine tablets in case of poison ivy and oak.

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