This Offbeat Life
New Economy Cooking
Backpacking by Bus

Italians and Apples

by Martha Strom

After a summer of part chaos and part relaxed enjoyment I'm back to being a dutiful mom. Facing my questionable responsibilities for writing this recipe column is--uhh, questionable. Did anyone miss me? Oh, well--do I care? Of course I do.

The relaxed part of my summer was great. Bigfork, Montana is still beautiful and the fires thankfully haven't come our way. I'm trying to immerse myself if Italian Cookbooks and Italian summer reading in preparation for our trip to Italy to attend cooking school next fall--maybe sooner if I can work it out. Travel to Europe is a real bargain right now. Lots of bargain rates according to the travel expert on CNBC.

One of my escape books this summer was "Under A Tuscan Sun" by Frances Mayes. She's a poet, a gourmet cook and a travel writer who with her husband bought and restored an abandoned villa in the Tuscan countryside. What could be more perfect for the reader who loves to cook, is an interior designer and yearns to do more traveling (that's me) ? Mayes transported me every afternoon via my cushy, sink down sofa back to Italy. The book was wonderful and her writing flawless. Want to move to Italy and restore a villa? Read the book!

One of my summer cookbook reads--Italian Cooking of course--was Patricia Wells' "Trattoria." Wells lives in France and has written the award winning cookbooks "Bistro Cooking" and "Simply French." They will be my next purchases but for now I'll concentrate on "Trattoria" and it's recipes. Here's her wonderful "Vodka Pasta" recipe (hope it's O.K. with her) with a little advice--BUY THE BOOK!

VODKA PASTA (PAGE 92)

1/4 CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
1 28 OUNCE CAN CRUSHED TOMATOES IN PUREE
4 FRESH GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1 POUND DRIED ITALIAN TUBULAR PASTA
1/2 TEASPOON. RED PEPPER FLAKES
2 TABLESPOONS VODKA SEA SALT
1/2 CUP HEAVY CREAM
1/4 CUP FRESH FLAT LEAF PARSLEY, SNIPPED WITH SCISSORS

Put the oil, garlic, red pepper flakes and salt in a skillet large enough to hold the pasta later. Stir to coat the pan with oil and cook over moderate heat until garlic turns golden. Add the crushed tomatoes directly from the can, stir to blend, and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce begins to thicken, about 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning.

Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil. Add 3 tablespoons salt and the pasta, stir to prevent sticking. Cook until tender firm. Drain well.

Add the drained pasta to the skillet with the tomato sauce. Toss. Add vodka, toss again, then add the cream and toss. Cover, and reduce the heat to low, and let rest 1 or 2 minutes to allow the pasta to absorb the sauce. Add parsley and toss again. Serve immediately in warm shallow soup bowls. 6 to 8 servings.

Enjoy the pasta and BUY THE BOOK! It's wonderful.

With the pasta serve a green salad with a simple vinegar and oil dressing. If you have some fresh herbs snip some on the greens and add some pitted black Kalamata olives. Add warm crusty French bread for a perfect meal.

For dessert that's super easy have a fruit sorbet, Hagaan Daz has some good ones, and cookies. If you're feeling more ambitious here are two wonderful apple recipes. Pick some from your tree or your neighbors tree. Doesn't everyone have apples to give away this time of year. If you have to buy apples don't buy Fuji's. They're great eating but not good for cooking. Ask the grocer to recommend.

COUNTRY APPLE PIE

PIE CRUST

Do the crust first and refrigerate it while you prepare the apple filling. The recipe is for a two crust pie. You might as well. You'll have one crust left to freeze and bake another day.

• 2 CUPS FLOUR
• 1/2 CUP SHORTENING PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS BUTTER
• 5 - 6 TABLESPOONS ICE WATER
• 1/4 TEASPOON SALT
• 1 TABLESPOON SUGAR

Combine flour, sugar and salt in a bowl. Cut in shortening and butter with two knives or a pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse corn meal. Add cold water and combine quickly to form a ball. Divide ball in two (one for now and one for another day) and wrap in plastic wrap to chill.

COUNTRY APPLE PIE FILLING

• 4 LARGE APPLES PEELED AND SLICED
• 1/2 CUP BROWN SUGAR
• 2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
• 1/2 TEASPOON CINNAMON
• 1/8 TEASPOON NUTMEG
• 4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER CUT IN SMALL PIECES
• DASH OF SALT

Mix together apples, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Roll out pie crust three inches larger than the pie pan. Lay crust in pan with extra dough hanging over sides. Put apple mixture on crust and dot with butter. Gather dough up over apples so there's an opening in the middle. Brush top of crust with a little beaten egg and sprinkle it with granulated sugar. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.

West Virginia Apple is another delicious dessert. If you don't want to make a pie crust this one is the answer.

WEST VIRGINIA APPLE CRISP

In case you're wondering, it's called West Virginia Apple Crisp because that's where we were living when I got the recipe.

• PLACE IN A BUTTERED BAKING DISH:
• 4 CUPS SLICED APPLES SPRINKLE WITH:
• 1 TEASPOON CINNAMON
• 1 TEASPOON SALT
• 1/4 CUP WATER RUB TOGETHER:
• 3/4 CUP Sifted FLOUR
• 1 CUP SUGAR
• 1/3 CUP BUTTER SPRINKLE MIXTURE OVER APPLES

Bake at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. Serve warm with cream. Makes 6 servings.

Both apple recipes are guaranteed to be wonderful. Try them both.

LOVE, MOM

Footnote from Editor: Mom really does know how to cook. She also knows that lots of people don't. Dumb-ass cooking questions can be directed to the magazine and we'll set her on it.