THE CASUAL COOK
Postcards from Arizona

by Martha Strom

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IF LIFE HANDS YOU LEMONS MAKE SORBET!

Those of you who have been reading this food column for the last three plus years know of my love for anything lemony. The house we bought last September in Surprise, Arizona has three beautiful citrus trees in the back yard, one of them a gorgeous lemon tree with unbelievably plump, juicy fruit. So at this time of year I’m in lemon heaven. Its such a treat to walk out the back door and pick a fresh lemon or two for any recipe that might require it or simply to make a great big pitcher of fresh lemonade. I’ve even been caught a time or two bumbling around after dark, scissors in hand groping for just one lemon to wedge for some baked salmon.

Yesterday was a windy day. Yesterday I didn’t even have to pick the lemons. A short step into the back yard is all that was required to pick eight beautiful lemons up off the ground. The next question was what to do with eight more lemons as there was already a bowl full on the kitchen island. By the way, Arizona wisdom states that there should be only one lemon tree per neighborhood as the crop from just one tree tends to supply everyone within a three block radius.

I haven't used my ice cream/sorbet maker since we arrived here. In light of my mountainous supply of lemons It was time to dig through my cookbooks for an idea or two. First search always for me is my New Basics Cookbook by Rosso and Lukins where I found a recipe for Sunny Lemon Sherbet--not a sorbet because the recipe calls for a little heavy cream but delicious enough to warrant passing along. 

New Basics was published in 1989 so its not so new anymore but still, in my opinion, one of the best The recipes are creative and delicious.

SUNNY LEMON SHERBET

  • 4 cups water
  • 2 cups sugar
  • Finely minced zest of 3 lemons
  • 1/2 cup of lemon juice
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream

Combine the water, sugar and 2/3 of the lemon zest in a sauce pan and heat to a simmer. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining lemon zest and the lemon juice, and allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.

Whisk the cream into the mixture and refrigerate it until chilled, a minimum of 2 hours.

Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturers instructions. Makes 6 cups.

My on-line search found a simple recipe for sorbet from Emeril Lagasse that promises to be simple and delicious.

LEMON SORBET

  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 1 Tbs. lemon zest

Bring the water and sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, remove from the heat, and cool. Combine the syrup with the lemon and zest and pour into the bowl of an ice cream maker. Freeze according to the manufacturers instructions. After the sorbet is made, transfer to an airtight container. Cover tightly and freeze until ready to serve.

And now---drum roll please----spurred on by daughter Leslie who just returned from Italy and France I searched for Lemon Sorbet in Shells. The dessert I’m told is extremely popular in both Italy and France and was a real favorite with Leslie and friend Susan. They ordered it every where they went---couldn’t get enough. Upon returning home they found it in the freezer section of a favorite grocery store, Trader Joe’s. If there is no Trader Joe’s close by maybe you can make a friend of your local grocer and he can locate some for you. Better yet, use the recipe that follows. Its fun to do and can be made ahead.

Here’s the recipe I found on-line. It has a four out of five star rating. Served with some tiny home made lemon cookies this would be a smashing light finale to any special dinner party.

LEMON SORBET IN LEMON SHELLS

Lemon Cups (Shells)

You’ll need 8 large uniform lemons. Cut off the top 1/3 of the lemon (not the stem end). Hollow out each lemon by using a grapefruit knife or grapefruit spoon just inside the rind and circling the flesh (being careful not to puncture the lemon).

Remove juice and flesh and put it in your blender or food processor. Process and strain.

Make a slight shallow cut on the bottom of each lemon shell (being careful not to cut through to the inside of the lemon).This will make them sit straight and not fall over. Fill with sorbet and freeze again. Can be made ahead and kept several days in the freezer.

Lemon Sorbet

  • 1/3 cup lemon zest
  • 1 cup strained fresh lemon juice--from lemons used for cups
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups water

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine sugar and water until sugar dissolves. Add lemon zest. Stir until mixture comes to a boil, boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat, cool and strain. Add lemon juice.

Transfer to an ice cream maker and process according to manufacturers instructions.

Enjoy any or all of these scrumptious lemon desserts. I wish I could bring my lemon tree roots and all to Northwest Montana and make sorbet for the entire area.

Bon Appitit!
Martha