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The Ice Age Is Here
by
Dave McBee
It may be summer, technically, but backpackers
in western Washington anxious to escape into the high backcountry
of the Cascades and Olympics are starting to feel more than a
bit frustrated: the higher elevations are still buried under
this past winter's record snowfall, and with the Puget Sound
lowland's daytime temperatures straining to reach 60 degrees,
with frequent showers, the chances of all that snow melting off
any time soon, if at all, are slim. Backpackers and climbers
have resigned themselves to the distinct possibility that a lot
of places in the high country are not going to be accessible
this summer.
1998's el Nino phenomenon was not that bad a guy that winter's
light snowpack and early meltoff resulted in the back country
opening up for safe travel by early June. And the spring rains
stopped early: by the end of May, I had completed four trips
along the west side of the Olympics (this, the rain capital of
North America) and didn't get rained on even once.
La Nina on the other hand, is a bitch: all winter long, the
jet stream was pointed directly at Washington, hosing us down
with storm after storm. Heavy rains and mud slides in the low
country, record amounts of snow up high. Skiers delighted in
fresh powder daily; Mount Baker recorded a new North American
record for the winter's snowfall. The jet stream is still pointed
at us, and, enough with the joy of being the proud recipients
of meteorological aberrations, most of us want it to go rain
on somebody else's parade.
The stillhuge snowpack is wet, heavy, and unstable; avalanches
will continue to be a threat all summer, in many places. Folks
trying to traverse steep, snowcovered slopes to reach customary
summer spots will take great risks.
What, then, must we do?
If you've got a car, drive to eastern Washington. If not,
read on.
Go walk the coast! The Olympic National Park coastal
strip beckons! You may well get wet, but you will not run into
snow. From the Hoh River to Shishi Beach, fifty-odd miles of
sand, rock, boulder, seal, whale, cedar and salal play out their
endless rhythms. But if you're not damn careful, the raccoons
will get your food. See Backpacking by Bus, segments for Quinault
and Port
Angeles...
Check out Ross Lake, pearl of the North Cascades. Though
it currently looks like a halfempty (halffull?) bathtub, having
been drawn down in anticipation of the huge snowmelt, the lake
offers many opportunities. Due to the massif of Baker and the
Picket Range, the area gets less rain than western Washington,
but there's still a shitload of snow above 2000 feet or so. See
Backpacking by Bus, segment for Ross
Lake.
Head to the Leavenworth area and use Chelan-Douglas
County's Link Transit to access lower elevation hikes in that
area. The Ingalls Creek trail is snow-free for several miles.
Or try the Chelan lakeshore trail (you'll need to use Lady of
the Lake to reach this one.) See Backpacking by Bus for Leavenworth.
I think it was Bill Shakespeare who said that "discretion
is the better part of valour". Still applies. Don't be a
casualty; have fun but don't wind up smeared on some rocks a
long ways downslope. Don't be afraid to back out if it starts
getting more than a bit dicey. Lather up your boots, grab your
gaiters and Gore Tex, and have at. Marvel at the millions of
tons of water stored atop all the peaks about you, and be grateful
that you live in such a universe.
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