The Best Place to Dive with Hammerhead Sharks

Shark diving is one of those activities some people think is awe-inspiring and the rest of the population considers completely bonkers. For those who want to get outside the cage, observing a mass schooling of hammerheads should provide just the thrills and I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments for a lifetime of dinner party conversations. This is the best place in the world to dive with hammerhead sharks!

Easily identified by its T-shaped nose with eyes at the extremities – all the better for searching out its prey – these big fish (they grow up to six metres long) tend to hang out together during daylight hours and hunt solo after dark. Uninhabited Cocos Island, 550 kilometres off the coast of Costa Rica, is one of the best places in the world to dive with hammerheads, especially around June when the water is relatively calm and sharks far outnumber divers. You’ll have to jump on a live-aboard dive boat though, since it takes more than a day to reach the island from Puntarenas on the west coast.

Piedras Bayas Basecamp

Yes, this tiny camp is in the Atacama Desert, but it’s also on the coast, making it a completely unique destination for adventurous souls. There are just three dome tents on wooden platforms – plenty of space between each for maximum privacy – with attached bathrooms and a shared service centre with kitchen and indoor and outdoor dining spaces.


The tents themselves have everything you could need, including a comfy bed, storage and, thanks to solar panels, around-the-clock electricity and hot water. From there, though, it’s every traveller for him or herself. You’ll need to hire a 4WD to get here – it’s pretty much overland for the final four kilometres of your journey (the camp is about 90 kilometres from Copiapó) – and bring in all the food you might require since there’s nothing nearby.

The landscape around here – dunes, beach and rocky headlands – is completely arresting and you could easily spend a few days just exploring on foot, swimming in the ocean or taking out the kayaks and getting an eyeful from the water. There’s every chance you’ll feel as though you’re the only people on earth while you’re visiting.

Patagonia Camp

Bunking down in one of the 18 yurts at this campsite in Chile’s south is sure to induce a certain serenity. From every angle – whether you’re lying in bed or sitting at the wood table – you can view the wilderness or, at night, the endless stars through the skylight, out the windows or from the private terrace. And an impressive wilderness it is too, located at the edge of Torres del Paine National Park with Lake Torro in the foreground and a backdrop of the snow-capped Paine Massif.


Each of the mini marquees features locally produced artworks, a private bathroom and, importantly, central heating. There’s also a communal area – all buildings are connected by elevated walkways to protect the environment – where you’ll find the bar and restaurant.

If you’re a hiker, in particular, be prepared for some amazing adventure. There are a number of treks you can take from the camp, including the eight-hour Torres Base Trek. Never fear if you’re not quite so sporty, since there are plenty of other walks to waterfalls and viewpoints where you can observe condors and other birds of prey. There’s also the opportunity to go kayaking and fishing.

Alto Atacama

Put your wallet away and surrender to this all-inclusive oasis in the desert. Isolated enough to capture the tranquillity of this lush valley in the Salt Mountain Range, 1600 kilometres north of Santiago, it is still only a short bike ride from the tiny town of San Pedro. The design of the resort, including its 42 luxurious rooms, is inspired by local village architecture.


Fill your days with the guided tours on offer – journeys to the El Tatio geysers or mountain biking the Inca are just two of the 30 options – escape the heat in one of the hotel’s six pools set to varied temperatures, or visit the llamas in their stable.

Elqui Domos

Serious stargazers are drawn to the Atacama Desert in Chile’s far north for the crystal clear views of the night sky. At Elqui Domos you can hone your astronomer’s eye from the comfort of your bed.


Snuggle up in one of seven igloo-like geodesic domes – each fitted with telescopes, private terraces, elevated loft beds and detachable roofs to allow maximum star power – or take in the twinkling panorama from a stylish, three-level observatory cabin. The hotel also offers nightly astronomy tours and twilight horse rides.

 

Remota

Superbly positioned at the mouth of Patagonia’s dramatic fjords, Remota draws inspiration from its ruggedly beautiful surrounds, but adds a unique modernist twist. Inside, the indigenous-inspired decor pays homage to the region’s rich past.


The all-inclusive resort offers daily excursions like kayaking to glaciers and horse treks to Torres del Paine National Park. But you’ll be eager to return for dinner. The ever-changing menu features fresh Patagonian delicacies, local wines and pisco sour, the staple Chilean cocktail. Unwind in the Finnish sauna, saltwater pool and outdoor jacuzzi.

Bikes and beers at Handlebar

We really dig bars that promote eco-living, not to mention discourage drink driving. Handlebar does just that with its cosy homage to the humble pushbike. Gold-painted retro bikes hang from the walls, and the furniture is vintage kitsch. Grab a beer or whisky and lounge on one of the patio chairs, or throw down a bowl of homemade meatballs and take in the sights and sounds of the vibrant Kensington Market. When the live music cranks up, head back inside and boogie the night away. Note: the bikes are bolted down so you’ll need to find an alternative ride home.

Cure your ills at Keefer Bar

Seeking a fix the doctor can’t prescribe? The Keefer Bar knows a cocktail mix sure to cure what ails you. This apothecary-themed watering hole aims to soothe your soul and quench your thirsty condition. Award-winning bartender Danielle Tatarin takes a fresh approach to proceedings, sourcing ingredients from local markets and nearby herbalists to make the bitters, syrups and teas used in her unique creations.


Sip on a punchy Thai Pisco Sour or, if you’re feeling daring, down a Bowen Island Iced Tea – as well as vodka, lime and honey syrup, it also contains seahorse tincture. Asian-inspired small plates, including Peking duck sliders and shrimp miso shiitake tacos, are also on the menu.

Seek out Spirit Bears

Shy, elusive and shrouded in mystery, the enchanting white bears that roam the pristine river valleys of British Columbia are a rare genetic anomaly. Spirit bears – also known as the kermode bear or moskgm’ol (white bear) – are relatives of the black bear, but a single recessive gene causes one in 10 to be born with a white coat. Embark on a spirit bear tour during September when a banquet of salmon leaps from the water in a frenzied surge upstream.


Travelling by boat to the Great Bear Rainforest, you’ll traverse lush valleys and bubbling rivers on foot so your guide can bring you within a stone’s throw of these magnificent animals. Watch with wonder as they forage for berries or gorge on freshly caught fish. The bears are protected by the Kitasoo Spirit Bear Conservancy – the only conservancy of its kind in the world – and the local Kitasoo Xaixais people have a vast knowledge of the species dating back thousands of years. Lean on their expertise for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with these fur balls you’ll want to cuddle but definitely shouldn’t.

Cycle Montreal’s Hidden Gems

Pedal beyond Old Montreal and get a feel for neighbourhood life in one of the hippest cities around on a tour with Fitz & Follwell Co. Get in touch with the bohemian side of town from Mile End to Outremont and Little Italy, exploring some of the town’s trendiest laneways and cafe-lined boulevards off the tourist track.


Enjoy a thick espresso with the locals, discover art galleries, and learn what makes each borough tick. Munch on fresh bagels and gather a picnic lunch from the Jean-Talon Market. Your guides have so many pearls to share they often lose track of time, so leave yourself plenty so you don’t miss out on the gems.