Australia

Beyond the glitter strip

When you ditch the clichés, you’ll find the Goldie’s real buzz hiding just beneath the surface.

There’s something about the Gold Coast that makes you brace for impact. Maybe it’s the blinding high-rises, the flashing theme-park billboards, or the faint smell of fake tan and nostalgia wafting from Surfers Paradise. It’s a place most Australians think they know—inevitable sunburn, meter maids, and the eternal promise of “world-class thrills.”

But spend a little time looking past the neon and novelty, and you’ll find a side of the Goldie that hums to a quieter rhythm. Turns out, it’s not just a playground for adrenaline junkies and schoolies. It’s a place where nature, culture, and a good cocktail can peacefully coexist (the trifecta).

I’d been to the Gold Coast before and liked it well enough. This time, I arrived with low expectations and an open mind…and left with sore legs, a full stomach, and that half-salty, half-sweet feeling you only get from a trip that genuinely surprises you.

The first surprise came inland, at a place called The Historic River Mill. It’s tucked away near Mount Nathan, where the air smells like gum leaves and creek water instead of sunscreen. The site itself dates back to the early 1900s, once serving as a sawmill and now doubling as a riverside café, animal sanctuary, and the starting point for the Scenic Farm Ride.

Now, I’m not what you’d call “horsey.” My equestrian résumé is limited to one pony ride at age seven and a brief crush on Heath Ledger in A Knight’s Tale. But while the horses here are spirited, they’re also calm, smooth, and almost unnervingly intuitive.

I was matched with a chocolate-coloured Peruvian beauty named Rafael, who happened to be the tallest horse they have (just my luck). Together, we followed our knowledgeable guide, Rodrigo, and meandered through bushland, under almost-flowering jacaranda trees, and past ancient gums that looked like they’d been keeping secrets for centuries.

The pace was relaxed: slow in a way that makes you exhale properly for the first time all week. By the time we looped back to the mill, I felt a weird mix of grounded and giddy, like the hour we’d spent in nature had quietly recalibrated my brain. Not bad for a morning that started with me wondering how on earth I was even gonna swing my leg up and over Rafa’s saddle.

From the hinterland, it’s about half an hour to Burleigh Heads, where the pace quickens, and the salt air gets under your skin in the best possible way. The Tropic, perched at the edge of the Burleigh Pavilion, is a restaurant that makes you momentarily believe your life could be a lifestyle shoot. Think Mediterranean-inspired dishes, sea breeze on the balcony, and a soundtrack of clinking wine glasses and low conversation.

I ordered a bunch of things starting with the burrata (because I’m not a monster) and finishing with a fresh greek salad, perfectly grilled halloumi (you can never have too much cheese) and some of their famous puffed spiced bread. From my table, I could see surfers carving up the point break and tourists pretending to be casual about spotting them.

The Gold Coast looked so much cooler than I remembered it. There’s something about good food and a sea view that resets your mood. And by the time I’d drained my Tease No. 2 cocktail (a concoction of tequila, mezcal, elderflower and pineapple), I’d started to suspect the Coast’s bad rap was entirely undeserved.

That afternoon, at the Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre (located at the foot of Burleigh Headland), I joined a guided walk led by a Yugambeh storyteller. If you’ve ever walked the Burleigh trail and thought, “Nice trees, cool coast” you’re missing the point. This land has stories older than the ocean itself; of spirits, ancestors, and deep connections.

As we wound through the coastal bush, my guide spoke of the Dreaming, traditional fishing practices, and the enduring significance of this sacred site. He pointed out shell middens older than most European cities and plants once used for medicine and food. It was humbling, grounding, and exactly the kind of cultural depth that gets lost behind the rollercoasters and skyline selfies. By the end, I felt both smaller and more connected, like I’d been properly introduced to a place most people already think they know.

After all that walking, I headed back to my accommodation for the night: The Mysa Motel at Palm Beach, which boasts a vibe that’s both retro revival and pastel fever dream. Think ‘50s-style architecture, terrazzo tiles, pops of mint green and pink, and a magnesium pool that looks straight out of a Slim Aarons photograph.

It’s boutique in all the right ways—locally run, sustainably minded, and small enough that you start greeting other guests by name. My room had recycled timbers, handmade ceramics, and super soft linen.

I spent the rest of the afternoon horizontal by the pool, alternating between chapters of a book I was really getting into (any ACOTAR fans out there?) and quiet appreciation of how much fun I was having.

But the fun wasn’t over. The next day I found myself in Miami, ready to learn all about Granddad Jack’s Craft Distillery, a family-run operation that somehow manages to feel both nostalgic and rock ’n’ roll at the same time. The tour kicked off with a story about the real Granddad Jack—a straight-talking barber with a fondness for good whisky and better company.

You can feel the lore pulsing through this place. You can also literally see it. Each corner of the warehouse-style tasting room is packed full of knick knacks from Granddad Jack’s life; the pole he put outside his barber shop every morning, the walking stick he used later in life, his picture is even plastered behind the bar.

I sipped my way through a gin flight that went from citrusy and bright to downright dangerous…and quick. We’re talking glasses of their famous Greenhouse Gin, their Two Pencils Gin and my personal favourite, their Albion Gin. I stayed longer than I meant to, and somehow walked out with my own bottle to take home, but that warm, fuzzy afterglow from good gin and good company followed me all afternoon.

Related: Have a drink at Granddad Jack's

The next morning, I swapped the serenity for something louder. Jet Ski Safaris, operating out of Main Beach, promised adventure and they delivered.

I hopped on the back of a jet ski and soon we were snaking through the Broadwater, salt spray hitting my face and my sometimes unhinged, terrified laughter bouncing off the water. We zipped past mangroves and sandbanks, and somewhere between the high-speed turns and the sun glittering on the water, I realised this was the Gold Coast at its best—wild, playful, alive. It’s not about the rides you line up for, but the ones you find when you wander away from the tourist trail.

When most people picture the Gold Coast, they see the postcard version, Surfers, skyscrapers, suntans. But there’s another layer beneath the gloss. It’s in the quiet of the hinterland trails, the laughter over shared plates, the deep pulse of Country, and the clink of a glass in good company.

The Coast isn’t trying to be anything it’s not; it just needs you to look past the clichés long enough to see it properly. And once you do, you’ll probably never see it the same way again. I know I don’t.