It turns out, Narita is more than just a layover lounge

Why this so-called “airport town” is secretly a crash course in Japan, even if you’ve only got a few hours.

If you’re like me, you’ve probably seen Narita’s name on your boarding pass and thought, “Ah yes, Narita – the airport.” The place where you slurp down one last vending-machine ramen, buy a packet of KitKats in a novelty flavour you’ll regret later (Wasabi? Seriously?) and brace yourself for the long-haul flight home.

But it turns out, Narita is not just the airport. Shocking, I know. The city itself – yes, there’s a whole city – is a pocket-sized crash course in Japan. If you ever find yourself here with a few hours to kill between flights, or maybe even a cheeky overnighter, you can squeeze in a cultural hit that’ll make you feel like you’ve done more than loiter in the fluorescent lights of Duty Free.

Narita is only a 15-minute train ride from the airport, and once you step outside Narita Station, you’re suddenly in the old part of town, walking along Narita Omotesando, a street that feels like someone pressed pause on the modern world.

Wooden shopfronts lean companionably against each other, lanterns sway gently in the breeze, and the air smells like soy sauce and sweet smoke. Every other doorway seems to hold a shopkeeper beckoning you inside, whether they’re selling handcrafted clogs, lucky charms, or incense. The sort of place where “just popping out for a stroll” quickly becomes an hour of poking your head into little shops and wondering how much space you’ve got left in your carry-on.

But the real star here is the food. Narita is famous for eel, which is one of those dishes you either eagerly embrace or watch with wary fascination. On Omotesando, chefs prepare it right in front of you, the whole messy, slippery process on display, and then grill it over hot coals until it turns golden and smoky.

But watching something wriggle one moment and then smelling it caramelise under a brush of sweet soy sauce the next is confronting, so I skipped it this time, and let my travelling companions taste the rich, buttery Unagi.

Fuelled by a bowl of vegetable tempura on rice instead, we wandered up to Naritasan Shinsho-ji Temple, the city’s crown jewel and a thousand-year-old Buddhist complex. The entrance gate is enormous, a structure that makes you instinctively straighten your spine as you pass beneath it.

Beyond that, the grounds unfold in a series of pagodas, gardens, and incense-heavy halls that feel both grand and strangely calming. Even if you’re not usually a temple-goer, this place is something else. We wandered through manicured gardens, watched koi the size of small house cats glide through ponds, and stood in front of ancient wooden halls, wondering how many travellers had paused here before us.

At this point, most people would head back to the airport, satisfied that they’d had a quick-fire intro to Japanese culture. But if you can stretch your stopover, the countryside around Narita offers even more.

We stopped at Tako (located in the Chiba prefecture), about half an hour away, for a cycling tour. Now, I’m not usually a fan of group rides – too much Lycra, too many competitive dads – but this was different.

We pedalled gently past rice fields and wandered around a peaceful (and completely empty) shrine. The air smelled clean and earthy, the fields glowed green, and there was enough time to actually take it all in without gasping for breath. But that might have been because the bikes were electric.

And because rice deserves more than just admiration from the saddle, we ended up at Masugataya Ryokan, a traditional inn that runs onigiri-making classes. Onigiri, for the uninitiated, are Japan’s iconic rice balls: simple, triangular parcels wrapped in seaweed and stuffed with everything from salmon to fried chicken.

How hard could they be? Very, as it turns out. My first attempt stuck to my hands like glue and collapsed into something that looked more like a sad snowball than a rice ball. But with some gentle coaching, I eventually produced something edible. And then, of course, I ate it. And then another. Onigiri are addictive, and learning to make them in a tatami-floored inn, surrounded by sliding paper doors, felt like a travel memory worth bottling.

So, next time you see Narita on your itinerary, don’t roll your eyes and resign yourself to airport purgatory. Step outside. Even if you’ve only got two hours, you can wander Omotesando and sneak a peek at the temple.

Four to six hours, and you can add in eel, maybe a bit of shopping. A full day? Get yourself to Tako and pedal through the countryside before rolling rice balls at Masugataya.

Narita may look like just an airport town from the sky, but on the ground it’s Japan in miniature – compact, fascinating, and far tastier than anything you’ll find in a departure lounge.

8 Hidden Beaches in Western Australia

That Locals Don’t Want You to Know About

Discover WA’s secret coastlines, from stingray hangouts to shell-strewn shores

Western Australia has more than 12,000 kilometres of coastline, which is basically a fancy way of saying: there are a lot of beaches. Sure, everyone knows about Cottesloe and Cable Beach, but the best beaches in Western Australia aren’t always the busiest. Hidden bays, shell-strewn stretches, and stingray hangouts are quietly waiting for anyone willing to wander a little further (or at least ChatGPT a little harder).

If you’re searching for the best hidden beaches in WA – spots with turquoise water, wildlife encounters, and scenery that could make even your Instagram filters a non-thing – here’s a roundup that’ll keep your beach towel busy.

1. Meelup Beach, Dunsborough

Meelup Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Western Australia’s Southwest. Think powdery white sand, calm turquoise water, and bushland bursting with wildflowers in spring. It’s also one of the few north-facing beaches in WA, which means the sun hits it just right all day long. Swim, paddle, picnic, or if you’re lucky, spot migrating humpback whales off the coast.

2. Bremer Bay, Fitzgerald River National Park

Bremer Bay might be six and a half hours from Perth, but it’s hands down one of the most rewarding coastal adventures in Western Australia. Located near Fitzgerald River National Park, this hidden beach paradise offers surfing, fishing, swimming, and some of the most diverse flora in the state. Between July and October, Bremer Bay is also a hotspot for whale watching, so yes, before you ask, it’s worth packing binoculars alongside your bathers.

3. Hamelin Bay, Margaret River Region

If you’re looking for a beach experience with a side of wildlife, Hamelin Bay is your match. Famous for its friendly stingrays that cruise the shallows, this beach is a magnet for snorkellers and photographers. The underwater scenery boasts colourful fish, plant life, and even old shipwrecks, making it one of the most unique beaches in Western Australia’s Margaret River region.

4. Shell Beach, Shark Bay

Shell Beach is exactly what it sounds like, except a thousand times better. Stretching over 100 kilometres, this spot in the Shark Bay World Heritage Area is made entirely of tiny shells instead of sand. The water here is incredibly salty, which makes floating effortless, and the crunch of shells underfoot is oddly satisfying. It’s one of only a few beaches in the world like it, which instantly makes it one of WA’s most unique natural wonders.

5. Little Parakeet Bay, Rottnest Island

While most visitors to Rottnest Island flock to The Basin or Pinky Beach, those in the know slip over to Little Parakeet Bay. Sheltered by rocky outcrops, this calm bay is perfect for swimming, snorkelling, or simply stretching out on the sand with fewer people around. It’s a quieter alternative to Rottnest’s busier beaches and there’s quokkas (enough said)!!!

6. Little Salmon Bay, Rottnest Island

Another Rottnest gem, Little Salmon Bay is a snorkeller’s dream. The water is crystal clear, the sand is soft, and beneath the surface you’ll find colourful marine life and coral gardens. It’s small, sheltered, and has all the ingredients of one of the best snorkelling spots in Western Australia.

7. Mettams Pool, Perth’s Northern Beaches

Just a short drive from Perth CBD, Mettams Pool is proof that you don’t have to travel far to find one of WA’s best swimming spots. This natural rock pool is protected by reefs, making the water calm and shallow, perfect for families and beginner snorkellers. Early mornings and weekdays are best if you want the place (almost) to yourself.

8. Little Beach, Nanarup (Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve)

Little Beach near Albany is the kind of place that travel brochures dream about. Turquoise water, pure white sand, and massive granite boulders that look like they’ve been strategically placed by an overachieving landscape designer. The surrounding Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve also offers walking trails with sweeping views, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring WA’s south coast.

From stingray encounters at Hamelin Bay to shell-covered shores in Shark Bay and the snorkel-friendly bays of Rottnest Island, Western Australia’s hidden beaches are as diverse as they are beautiful. Whether you’re based in Perth, road-tripping the Southwest, or venturing north, these secret coastal gems are proof that WA isn’t just big, it’s endlessly spectacular.

Starstruck in New Zealand

Where the Night Sky Steals the Show

Forget climbing mountains or gawking at fjords—New Zealand’s most jaw-dropping views kick off when the sun clocks out.

Yep, astrotourism is booming, and it turns out the best place to indulge your inner galaxy geek is just across the ditch. The Kiwis have turned their absurdly clear skies into a tourism industry, mixing science, Māori star lore, hot chocolate, and the kind of luxury eco-lodges that make you feel guilty for ever booking a chain hotel.
Here’s where to bed down, look up, and lose yourself in the cosmos.

Tekapo’s Dark Sky Project – The OG Stargazer’s Playground

If stargazing had a spiritual home, it’d be Takapō (Tekapo). For 20 years, the Dark Sky Project has been luring people up Mount John, 1029 metres above sea level, to peer through monster telescopes at galaxies far far away.

But this isn’t just about ticking off Saturn’s rings or the Orion Nebula. The guides here weave in Ngāi Tahu Māori star lore, mapping out how Polynesians navigated the Pacific using nothing but whetū (stars) and courage. It’s a cultural and scientific mash-up.

Hot Tip: How Not to Embarrass Yourself at a Stargazing Session

1. Don’t ask the astronomer if they’ve “seen ET.”
2. Orion’s Belt? Everyone sees it, champ.
3. That blinking dot? Jetstar. Calm down.

Over 45,000 people make the pilgrimage each year, and it’s not hard to see why. Where else can you be simultaneously humbled by the size of the universe and taught how to read it like a map by people who actually crossed oceans with it?

Headwaters Eco Lodge – Stars, Soup, and Serious Luxury

Down south in Glenorchy, the Headwaters Eco Lodge has pulled the ultimate trump card: it sits inside the Tāhuna Glenorchy Dark Sky Sanctuary, one of only 23 on the entire planet. That’s rarer than finding a decent coffee in the US.

The new hosted stargazing sessions here are equal parts astronomy lesson and indulgence. Imagine tucking into a chef-prepared dinner, then stepping outside to sip hot chocolate while the universe puts on its nightly laser show. Telescopes are set up for up-close gawking, and the mountain air is so clean you’ll almost have to squint.

By the time you roll back into your eco-chic suite (we’re talking hand-built with local timber, heated with solar power) you’ll feel smug knowing you’ve just saved the planet.

Best Post-Stargazing Drink in Glenorchy – A silky Central Otago pinot noir. It’s the kind of wine that makes you forgive sheep for being everywhere.

Fiordland Eco Retreat – Stargazing with No Kids Allowed

Not all heroes wear capes. Some just say “no children allowed” and build a luxury retreat on the shores of Lake Te Anau. Opening in Spring 2026, the Fiordland Eco Retreat is the future of astro-luxury.

The design brief? Adult indulgence with a celestial twist. Think outdoor stone baths where you can soak under a billion stars, rooms with stargazing windows angled perfectly toward the Milky Way, and nightly sessions with a bona fide Dark Sky Ambassador who’ll point out constellations without once calling them “those three stars that look like a saucepan.”

It’s eco-friendly, it’s indulgent, and it’s unapologetically adult. So leave the kids at home, grab a glass of Otago pinot, and prepare to toast the universe.

Why New Zealand’s Sky Is Better Than Yours

So why fly three hours instead of just craning your neck in the backyard? Because New Zealand doesn’t just dabble in astrotourism, it’s perfected it. Clear air, low light pollution, and a cultural backbone that sees the night sky as something more than just wallpaper make it one of the best stargazing destinations on Earth.

Starry-Eyed Stats to Impress Your Friends

• Tekapo skies = 5,000 stars visible to the naked eye. (Sydney? Maybe three.)
• Only 23 Dark Sky Sanctuaries exist worldwide. Glenorchy bagged one.
• Māori call the Milky Way Te Ikaroa – “the long fish.” Drop that on your next fishing trip.

On 7 September, when the lunar show kicks off, there’s only one sensible place to be: lying in a steaming bath, glass of red in hand, letting the Milky Way remind you just how tiny, and lucky, you are.

Star-Crossed Lovers Tip: Propose under the Tekapo stars and you’re guaranteed at least one yes. From your partner or the heavens. (Odds are better than on Tinder.)

The Top 5 Lesser-Known Ski Mountains in the USA

Forget Aspen’s fur coats, Vail’s valet parking, and Park City’s $40 salads.

These five mountains are for people who actually came to ski, not to compare goggle tans in a champagne bar. Think deep powder, dive bars, and locals who’ll give you the best tips over a cheap beer instead of a concierge counter.

From Montana’s treehouses and Oregon’s haunted hotels to Utah’s powder-meets-desert views, Idaho’s secret celeb hideaway, and Colorado’s last great ski town; these spots deliver proper mountain culture. No gloss. No pretense. Just big turns, big nights, and even bigger stories.

1. Whitefish, Montana

Whitefish is where ski bums, night owls, and powder hounds collide, sometimes literally, usually at the Hellroaring Saloon. Big terrain, bigger personalities, and night skiing that’ll ruin you for daylight forever.

Whitefish is what happens when a ski town decides it doesn’t want to grow up and become Aspen. Tucked up near the Canadian border in Montana, it’s got big-mountain skiing without the big-mountain attitude. The locals are friendly, the beer’s cheap, and the powder’s so dry you’ll swear the snowflakes were freeze-dried by hand.

The mountain itself is huge. With over 3,000 acres of skiable terrain, you’ll find everything from mellow cruisers to thigh-burning tree runs. And if you haven’t shredded under the lights yet, Whitefish offers night skiing, a surreal, slightly spooky experience where you carve turns under the stars while a faint whiff of woodsmoke floats up from the valley below. Pro tip: bow to Big Mountain Jesus on your first run for good luck. Trust us.

“Night skiing under a billion stars and finishing the run in a bar with sticky floors, Whitefish is Aspen’s cooler, cheaper, drunker cousin.”

Après-ski here is delightfully unpretentious. Locals migrate straight from the slopes into town to spots like the Great Northern Bar, where pool tables and pints replace champagne buckets and charcuterie boards. Expect live music, sticky floors, and the occasional cowboy hat, sometimes all on the same person.

For accommodation, you could stay in a hotel… but you’re better off booking the Ponderosa Treehouse. It’s part Swiss Family Robinson, part ski bum fantasy: a cabin perched high among the pines, with panoramic views and a toasty fire waiting after a day smashing powder stashes.

Add in Glacier National Park just down the road, and you’ve got yourself a proper winter playground without the pretension.

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2. Mt. Hood, Oregon

Skiing Mt. Hood feels like stepping into a Stephen King novel — minus the murder (usually). The Timberline Lodge, perched on the slopes, doubled as the infamous Overlook Hotel in The Shining, so you can spend your après imagining Jack Nicholson lurking behind the bar whispering, “Here’s Johnny!”

The mountain itself is a beast, offering skiing nearly year-round thanks to its volcanic glacier and the highest elevation ski slopes in North America. You’ll get everything from wide-open groomers to tight tree runs where you’ll pray to every snow god you know.

For a true locals’ experience, rent a log cabin in the woods around Mt. Hood Village.

There’s something primal about waking up surrounded by towering pines, brewing coffee on a wood stove, and heading out into crisp alpine air knowing your day involves both adrenaline and craft beer.

Après-ski here is perfectly Oregonian. It’s laid-back, slightly hipster, and deeply committed to local brews. Check out Mt. Hood Brewing Co. for a pint of Ice Axe IPA and a pile of pub grub big enough to feed a snowboard team. Stick around long enough and someone will inevitably offer you a local tip involving “secret stashes,” which may or may not refer to powder.

And if you need a day off and if your legs still work, snowshoe through silent old-growth forests where the only sound is snow crunching underfoot and maybe the faint echo of “redrum” if you’ve had one too many at après.

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3. Brian Head, Utah

At Brian Head, you’re carving powder while staring at red rock cliffs that look like they’ve been stolen from Mars. It’s part ski resort, part desert fever dream, and somehow, it works perfectly.

Brian Head is what happens when a ski resort gets dropped into a desert painting. From the top of the runs, you’ll gaze out over fiery cliffs and bizarre hoodoo formations dusted with snow like some surreal mash-up of skiing and Mars colonisation.

The vibe here is about as far from Park City’s glitz as you can get. Locals roll up in pickups, not Porsches, and the après scene is low-key but lively. Head to the Last Chair Grill and Brews. Grab a craft brewski, swap stories with strangers who’ll become mates by sundown, and soak up a genuine mountain-town energy.

Brian Head is also a family-friendly gem. The mountain has just the right balance of approachable greens and sneaky double blacks, so you can introduce the kids to skiing while still scaring yourself silly on the steeps. And if you need a break, there’s tubing, snowmobiling, or simply parking yourself at a firepit to bask in 300+ days of Utah sunshine.

What really seals the deal is the contrast deep powder under bluebird skies, framed by alien-looking red rocks that make every photo look like a Photoshop job. It’s Utah, but it feels like nowhere else on Earth.

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4. Sun Valley, Idaho

Sun Valley’s where celebrities go to disappear and ski bums go to pretend they’re locals. Clint Eastwood and Arnie love it, but the real star here is Ketchum, a cowboy-cool town where whiskey flows faster than fresh powder.

Sun Valley might be America’s original ski resort, but it’s still somehow managed to fly under the radar of the masses. This is where the Hollywood set comes to hide, trading paparazzi for powder days. It’s where you’ll find Clint Eastwood filling up his old ute at the bowser next to you and where Arnold Schwarzenegger has his own run named after him. Funnily enough it was previously called Flying Maid. They must have a sense of humour in Sun Valley.

The skiing is stellar: 2,000 acres of perfectly groomed trails mixed with sneaky bowls and glades for when you want to disappear. But the real magic happens in Ketchum, the cowboy-cool town at the mountain’s base. Think wooden boardwalks, neon-lit saloons, and bars where everyone from ski bums to billionaires ends up drinking the same $6 whiskey.

Hit the Pioneer Saloon for prime rib the size of your head and walls covered in taxidermy, then stumble across the street to Whiskey Jacques for live bands and a shot or three of local rye. Ketchum’s got an authenticity that big-name resorts lost decades ago. It’s where Wild West grit meets ski-town chic, and somehow, it works.

If you’re lucky, you’ll end up in a random late-night poker game with a retired Olympian and a guy who swears he once sold a snowboard to Dirty Harry. Sun Valley has that energy: stories waiting to happen, with a side of perfect corduroy.

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5. Crested Butte, Colorado

Crested Butte is Colorado’s last great ski town. No designer après boots, no velvet ropes, just steep chutes, cheap beer, and locals who’ll drink you under the table before showing you their secret powder stashes.

If you ask any hardcore skier where their heart lives, odds are they’ll whisper, almost reverently: Crested Butte. This is the last true locals’ mountain in Colorado. It’s a funky, unpretentious town paired with some of the steepest, most rewarding terrain in the Rockies.

This mountain doesn’t mess around. Expect leg-shredding double blacks, narrow chutes that test your nerve, and enough hidden powder stashes to keep you busy for weeks. But it’s the town that seals the deal. Painted Victorian houses, quirky dive bars, and a main street straight out of a snow globe — Crested Butte oozes charm without even trying.

Après here is an art form. Start with a local pint at The Public House, then graduate to Montanya Distillers for small-batch rum cocktails that will blow your frostbitten socks off. Finish the night at The Dogwood, a cozy cabin bar serving craft concoctions in what feels like your weird uncle’s living room.

And the vibe? Pure magic. Locals still outnumber tourists, no one cares what you’re wearing, and the conversations range from avalanche conditions to which band’s playing down the street. Crested Butte feels like skiing used to be before the luxury condos, $40 lift sandwiches, and designer après boots.

If you’re chasing big lines, bigger laughs, and a ski town that still feels like a secret, Crested Butte’s your place. Just… don’t tell too many people.

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The 6 best things to do in Hue

(that proves it’s more than just a rest stop between Hanoi and Hoi An)

Ah, Huế. The name alone sounds like a sigh of relief after too many bowls of phở. Wedged right in the belly of Vietnam, this former imperial capital is where emperors once strutted around in silks, poets scribbled moody verses about rivers, and regular folk learned the art of sweating through 40-degree heat with at least a little dignity.

These days, Huế is a curious blend of old-world grandeur and modern Vietnamese hustle – think citadels and tombs next to karaoke bars and motorbikes balancing entire wardrobes.

If you’re the kind of traveller who gets weak at the knees for history, culture, food, and a good Insta shot (don’t lie, we all are), Huế is your kind of place. We’ve put together six of the absolute best things to do in Huế, with enough variety to keep both your inner history nerd and your caffeine-addicted soul happy.

1. Play dress-up in an áo dài and walk around the Imperial City

Let’s start with the obvious. You cannot (and I mean cannot) come to Huế and skip the Imperial City. Built in the early 1800s by the Nguyễn Dynasty, this sprawling citadel is Vietnam’s answer to Beijing’s Forbidden City, except with more humidity and fewer selfie sticks.

Now, walking around the Imperial City is great on its own, but why stop there when you can fully commit and slip into an áo dài, Vietnam’s traditional long tunic? Rental shops nearby will happily deck you out in silky splendour for just a few bucks. Suddenly, instead of a sweaty tourist with a guidebook, you’re a regal courtier wandering through history, commanding respect from the ghosts of emperors’ past.

Sure, you’ll look slightly ridiculous if you trip on the tunic hem while climbing a staircase. And yes, locals may giggle at your awkward regal poses in front of golden gates. But nothing makes those UNESCO World Heritage shots pop like flowing silk in the breeze.

Just go in the early morning before the sun turns the citadel into an oven. Trust me when I say you don’t want to be wearing any more clothing than is strictly appropriate when the heat comes out to play.

2. Channel your inner emperor at Minh Mạng’s Tomb

If cemeteries make you squeamish, relax – Huế’s imperial tombs are less about spooks and more about stunning architecture and lakeside pavilions.

Minh Mạng, the second emperor of the Nguyễn Dynasty, clearly had taste. His tomb, located about 30 minutes outside Huế, is a masterpiece of symmetry. Picture manicured gardens, lotus ponds, ornate temples, and stairways that lead to terraces where you can look over the grounds, pretending to be Minh Mạng himself.

It’s peaceful, beautiful, and just a tad eerie. You could easily spend hours wandering around, admiring dragon motifs and perfectly framed views of the surrounding hills.

3. Marvel at Khải Định’s tomb

Now, if Minh Mạng’s tomb was subtle and poetic, Emperor Khải Định clearly went for: “make it shiny enough to blind my haters.” His tomb is the exact opposite of minimalist design. Imagine what would happen if a French palace, a Gothic cathedral, and a Vietnamese pagoda had a baby. Then imagine that baby rolled around in crushed glass, porcelain shards, and gold leaf. Voilà; it’s Khải Định’s tomb.

Climb the steep staircase and you’ll find a grand, over-the-top monument. Inside, the ceiling murals are so elaborate you’ll need a stiff neck massage afterwards. There are dragons, sunbursts, and enough detail to keep your eyes entertained for hours (if you can stand the humidity for that long).

Some say it’s gaudy; others call it genius. Either way, you’ll definitely mutter “wow” at least six times. And if you squint just right, it’s basically Vietnam’s Versailles but with fewer tourists elbowing you in the ribs.

I recommend visiting both Minh Mạng and Khải Định to really appreciate the contrast between understated elegance and full-blown imperial flex.

4. Take a cyclo ride through Huế’s city centre

Forget Uber. Forget Grab. Forget your two functioning legs. The only way to properly see Huế’s city centre is in a cyclo, the Vietnamese answer to a rickshaw, where you sit up front like royalty while a wiry man pedals you around with superhero calf strength.

Is it slightly awkward at first? Absolutely. You’re sitting in a giant seat while someone sweats profusely to get you across intersections teeming with motorbikes. But once you get over the mild guilt, it’s actually the best way to soak in Huế’s vibe.

You’ll glide past markets overflowing with dragon fruit, women selling steaming bowls of bún bò Huế (the city’s legendary noodle soup), and incense-scented pagodas that seem to pop up out of nowhere. The drivers often double as unofficial tour guides, shouting snippets of history in between expert traffic manoeuvres.

It’s chaotic. It’s authentic. And it’s far more fun than dodging scooters on foot.

5. Go full regal on a dragon boat ride

If emperors loved one thing, it was a boat that looked like a mythical creature. On the Perfume River, you’ll find exactly that: colourful dragon boats ready to ferry you into the sunset.

Board one of these beauties and you’ll be treated to riverside views of pagodas and city life, but you can also organise a traditional Vietnamese music performance to enjoy while you float. Think zithers, flutes, and vocals that echo across the water, reminding you that Spotify playlists sometimes don’t cut it.

One moment you’re reflecting on the poetic name “Perfume River” (spoiler: it doesn’t actually smell like Chanel No. 5), the next you’re clapping along awkwardly as musicians hand you porcelain cups to smack together.

Hopping aboard one of these boats in the evening is magical, not just because the air will be cooler, but because the twinkling city lights will be mirrored on the water.

6. Try Huế’s legendary salt coffee

You thought Vietnam’s caffeine game peaked with iced coffee dripping slowly into condensed milk? Think again. Huế has a beverage so unique you’ll question everything you thought you knew about coffee culture: cà phê muối, or salt coffee.

Yes, you read that right. Salt. In coffee. Somewhere out there, an Italian barista is clutching his chest in horror. But trust me, it works.

The trick is that the salt is mixed into the creamy foam that tops the coffee, balancing the bitterness with a subtle savoury kick. The result is a flavour explosion that’ll have you reaching for more.

And where better to try it than in Huế, the city that invented it? Pull up a low plastic stool at a street-side cafe, order a glass, and feel the sensation as your taste buds dance the cha-cha of confusion and delight.

But don’t sip it too fast. This is a slow-burn kind of beverage, best enjoyed while people-watching.

Whether you’re dressing up in an áo dài, floating down the Perfume River, or slurping down a salty coffee that’ll defy your tastebuds, Huế proves again and again that it’s not just a pit stop, it’s a destination that deserves its own spotlight.

 

 

 

The Australia I’m starting to know: dust, rocks and reflections

I’m a proud Australian, but I’ve never felt entirely comfortable saying it.

Maybe it’s because I grew up on the coast, feeling more connected to the ocean than the centre. Or maybe it’s because so much of what’s sold as “Australian pride” feels one-dimensional: a kind of rugged nationalism that doesn’t always include or acknowledge the complexity of our past or the depth of First Nations culture.

Travelling overseas, I’d sometimes meet people who dreamed of visiting the Australian outback. Usually older, often British or European, they spoke about red dust, endless roads and Mad Max landscapes with a kind of wild-eyed admiration. I never quite understood the sentiment.

In July, I had the opportunity to explore the elusive outback on a one-week road trip through South Australia, ending with a rare chance to witness one of Australia’s most remarkable natural events: the flooding of Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre.

The trip began with an early winter flight to Adelaide, where I picked up an all-wheel-drive rental and began the journey north. Following the A1, a highway that connects much of Australia, I stopped in Port Augusta to stock up for my solo trip. So far, the drive had been typical of Australian highways: cattle paddocks broken up by shipping ports and industrial towns. But beyond Port Augusta, the landscape began to shift. The Flinders Ranges Way weaved between the rugged hills of the southern ranges, and the earth deepened to a burnt orange – a hint of what was to come.

I arrived at Trezona Campground just after dusk and set up beneath a stand of River Red Gums. The sky was completely clear, and the winter night soon came alight, with the Milky Way stretched directly overhead. As Australia’s first official dark sky national park, the Flinders Ranges offer some of the clearest stargazing in the country. And, after setting up camp, I lay back and gazed upwards in the quiet. I’ve always marvelled at the power of aviation. Just that morning, I had been on the other side of the country, and now I was somewhere remote and ancient, completely alone.

I woke before sunrise for the morning’s mission: Razorback Lookout. One of the most iconic views in the Flinders Ranges, it did not disappoint. Behind the mountains, the sky turned purple before the first light touched the distant peaks of St Mary’s. The light cascaded down until the valley filled with a golden glow. What a place it was to make myself a morning coffee.

The rest of the day I drove the Brachina Gorge Geological Trail, an iconic route tracing over 130 million years of geological history. The gorge is sometimes called a “corridor through time”, its rock layers revealing some of the oldest visible fossils and formations on Earth.

Stopping intermittently along the trail, I found myself thinking about the cultural depth of this place, the land of the Adnyamathanha people, whose name translates to “rock people”. Their stories, language and knowledge are not just part of the landscape’s past but remain deeply connected to it today. I drove further north to Parachilna Gorge, where I set up camp for the night. Campsites lined the edge of a dry riverbed, and with a storm front approaching, I bunkered down for the night.

The following morning, I continued through the gorge back to Flinders Ranges Way, stopping at Stokes Hill Lookout and hiking Mount Ohlssen-Bagge for a sweeping view into Wilpena Pound. One of the best ways to grasp just how ancient this land is lies in a simple geological fact: the Flinders Ranges were once part of a vast mountain chain that rivalled the Himalayas in height.

Over the last 500 to 600 million years, erosion and weathering have gradually worn them down to the folded ridges and valleys we see today. It’s hard to describe, but when you’re looking out over the landscape, it even feels old. The red, banded rock crumbles away down the slopes below. That night, I camped at Rawnsley Park Station, with sweeping views of the cliffs of Wilpena Pound.

The next leg took me to Coober Pedy. The landscape grew sparse, and the soil deepened to a richer red. The ancient mountains flattened out into what was once a vast seabed. You know you’re getting close when mounds of excavated earth begin to scatter across the horizon. Coober Pedy is one of those places every Australian kid learns about: the town so hot that people live underground.

I find it amusing that the name Coober Pedy comes from the local Aboriginal words kupa piti, often translated as “white man’s hole” – a reference to the miners who burrowed underground to escape the heat. It’s a rough, strange and oddly beautiful place, where opals are still dug from the earth. Formed over millions of years, opals begin as silica-rich water seeping through sandstone.

As the water evaporates, it leaves behind silica that hardens into stone. Their vivid colours come from the way these silica spheres scatter light. At the town sign, a local miner stopped to show us his daily haul, not high quality, he said, but fascinating all the same. That night, I stayed in one of the local hotels, above ground, though part of me wondered what it might be like to sleep in a dugout.

The next morning, I visited one of the town’s most famous attractions, Crocodile Harry’s old dugout house. In many ways, it summed up Coober Pedy: eccentric, improvised, and full of personality. Out the front were rusted cars and old movie props, including relics from sci-fi films once shot in the area. Inside, the surprisingly light-filled cave was lined with photos from wild parties once hosted by the man said to have inspired Crocodile Dundee. Out the back, he had his own private opal mine. It was incredible to walk through these lived-in, deeply personal spaces.

That afternoon, I turned east onto William Creek Road. The scenery was classic outback Australia: red sand, sparse scrub and a sense of enormous scale. A large sign declared the road open but warned that conditions could quickly change in bad weather. I had made it just in time, with one of the season’s first winter rain fronts moving in behind me. What I hadn’t expected was how dramatically the landscape shifted along the way. One moment, I was driving through barren, flat plains with hardly any vegetation; the next, I was weaving through undulating dunes and rocky hills. It challenged my assumptions about what this desert landscape would be.

After passing Anna Creek Station – the largest cattle station in the world, covering over 15,000 square kilometres – I rolled into William Creek just after sunset. This tiny settlement sits in the heart of the desert, little more than a handful of buildings clustered around the main attraction: the pub. That night, I was staying in a glamping tent out the front of the William Creek Hotel, famously one of the most remote pubs in Australia.

Despite its isolation, the pub was buzzing. Lake Eyre was in rare flood, and William Creek is one of the closest launch points for scenic flights, so it had become a hub for outback travellers chasing the spectacle. As I paced back and forth trying to find a table in the crowded bar, one of the older patrons called out, “Aye, you’re wearing the lino out!” He wasn’t a local, just another classic Australian character: sun-worn, straight-talking and clearly amused by my indecision. He guessed I was from Sydney, probably because of my oversized puffer jacket. I headed to bed early, in preparation for the highlight of the trip.

The crescendo of the journey was worth the wait. After being allocated a plane and a pilot, I walked down to the airfield and climbed aboard. Before we boarded, we had a quick safety briefing (it felt a little absurd to be shown how to use a life jacket while standing in the middle of a desert). Together with fellow passengers, we took to the sky just as high clouds began to glow red. We flew directly into the sun, and it felt like we were gliding over a vast desert.

From the air, the ground patterns were starkly beautiful. What had looked random and sparse from the road now followed the natural contours of the land – faint vegetation tracing ancient watercourses, with salt pans etched delicately into the red earth.

On the horizon, the main attraction slowly revealed itself: Kati Thanda–Lake Eyre, under a once-in-a-generation flood. Rainfall from hundreds of kilometres away in Queensland had made its way into the basin, bringing water to a region more often remembered for dust. When I visited, the northern lake was already filling, though the southern section had yet to break through. From above, it looked as if the desert was slowly turning to glass – a vast inland mirror reflecting the colour of the sky.

While flying over the vast expanse of water, I found myself torn between being present in the moment and trying to capture it. The golden morning sun flared off the surface, flooding the cabin with glare and making it hard to frame a clean shot. Below, the desert shimmered like glass. This was the lowest point in Australia, a shallow, salt-encrusted basin with no outlet. The water didn’t flow anywhere. It simply spread out, then slowly evaporated or disappeared into the ground.

While this road trip only lasted a week, it gave me a taste of what the Red Centre had to offer. I am keen to keep exploring, to keep getting lost in the Australian outback, and to keep learning from the Traditional Owners of the land.

And perhaps now, for the first time, I feel a little more comfortable calling myself a proud Australian, not because of a flag or a slogan, but because I’ve begun to understand and connect with the land itself.

Punch Stress in the Face at This Okinawan Oceanfront Hideaway

Most wellness retreats ask you to light incense and hum yourself into a mild coma. But on a wind-swept clifftop in Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost prefecture, one luxury resort is swapping scented candles for sai weapons and replacing om with hiyaaa!

Welcome to HOSHINOYA Okinawa, a place where you don’t just find yourself… you fight yourself. Literally.

This isn’t your average Zen-and-tonka-bean-smoothie type escape. The Ryukyu Karate Stay is a two-night, three-day wellness program that trades passive pampering for purposeful punches. Think of it as a spiritual cleanse. A cultural immersion, physical reckoning, and damn good food, all served with the salty sting of sea air and sore muscles.

LEARN TO FIGHT WITHOUT FIGHTING

Forget what you know about karate from bad ’80s movies and underwhelming gym classes. Okinawa is where it all began. The ancient martial art of “Te” collided with Chinese influences and became “Toudi,” the philosophical ancestor of modern karate. Here, karate wasn’t about breaking bricks or impressing a Tinder date, it was about confronting your own chaos and sculpting it into calm.

At HOSHINOYA’s coastal dojo and on the sand (yes, barefoot beach sparring is a thing), you’ll train in both Ryukyu Karate and the lesser-known but seriously badass Ryukyu Kobudō, which uses tools like the sai (think: deadly metal fork) and the eeku (a weaponized oar, because… island life).

GET BEAT UP, THEN GET RUBBED DOWN.

Once your soul is centred and your limbs are rubber, it’s time to heal like a warrior. A post-training ritual of oil therapy, acupuncture, and shiatsu awaits, administered by licensed experts who can coax knots out of muscles you didn’t know existed.

This isn’t just a massage. It’s a full-body exhale.

EAT LIKE THE OKINAWANS (Which Might Be Why They Live Forever)

In Okinawa, food isn’t just fuel. It’s medicine. And at HOSHINOYA, meals are crafted under the ancient philosophy of Ishoku Dōgen, the idea that what you eat can heal what ails you.

Forget the quinoa. This is vitamin-loaded local greens, mysterious island herbs, and melt-in-your-mouth Okinawan pork that makes your B vitamins do backflips. Every dish is beautifully balanced to restore what the modern world has taken from you. Yes, it’s delicious. And yes, you’ll probably post it before you eat it.

The Rundown:

• Program: Ryukyu Karate Stay
• Duration: 2 nights, 3 days
• Cost: ¥160,000 per person (excl. accommodation)
• Includes: Karate + Kobudō sessions, all meals, spa treatments, a spiritual sucker-punch to your routine
• Group Size: Just you and a plus one (max 2)
• Bookings: Minimum two weeks in advance Link here

The Setting: HOSHINOYA Okinawa

Perched on the edge of Japan and reality, this 100-room fortress-inspired resort combines contemporary luxury with Ryukyu soul. Expect dramatic ocean views, traditional design, and enough cultural gravitas to make you feel like you’ve time-travelled—if samurai were into soft linens and world-class dining.

So if you’re tired of downward-dogging your way to peace, maybe it’s time to throw a few (metaphorical) punches instead. Okinawa’s waiting, with a black belt, a bowl of pork belly, and a killer ocean view.

Low season, high vibes

8 reasons why you should travel to the Islands of Tahiti during the low season

Let’s be honest, when most people think of Tahiti, they picture honeymooning couples sipping champagne in an overwater bungalow while dolphins leap in synchronised harmony in the background. And sure, that version of paradise exists.

But here’s a secret everyone doesn’t want you to know: the best time to visit The Islands of Tahiti is actually during the low season, when everything is a little quieter, a lot cheaper, and just as dreamy.

From November to March, Tahiti trades high-season hype for something far more magical: slower travel, lush landscapes, warm tropical rain (read: excellent excuses for extra cocktails), and prices that won’t make your credit card cry.

1. Fewer crowds at all the best spots

Here’s the thing – Tahiti doesn’t do crowds like other places. Even in peak season, you’ll rarely feel overrun. But in the low season? It’s next-level peaceful. Think empty beaches, open bookings, and the freedom to stroll through botanical gardens without photobombing a single proposal.

This off-peak window is your golden ticket to serene snorkelling sessions, solo sunset gazing, and getting that perfect Insta shot without someone’s uncle Gary in the background.

2. Slow travel, island style

The low season practically begs you to ditch the schedule, unplug a little, and lean into that laid-back Polynesian rhythm. With fewer tourists around, you’ll have more time (and space) to immerse yourself in local life, traditions, and flavours. You’re not rushing from activity to activity, you’re having long chats with the tour guide, sipping coffee with the guesthouse owner, and saying “yes” to that spontaneous waterfall hike.

3. It’s a lot cheaper

Now, let’s talk money. Visiting Tahiti during the low season means better availability, lower prices, and more package deals to make your trip feel luxe without the “oops, I accidentally spent my house deposit” panic.

Flights from Australia tend to be cheaper during summer, and many hotels offer discounts or bonuses like free nights, upgrades, or extra activities. Want a massage and a mountain-view suite? Done.

Travelling with a group? Look at holiday rentals or local guesthouses for serious value. Feeling adventurous? Yes, you can camp on Bora Bora, and suddenly, you’re the coolest person on the island.

A little heads up though, the Christmas and New Year’s window is technically still “low season,” but don’t expect low prices. It’s a popular time for travel, and availability tightens. If you want deals and quiet beaches, aim for early November, mid-January, or February, you’ll get the sweet spot of serenity and savings.

4. Tropical showers? More like scenic intermissions

Yes, it’s technically the “wet season,” but don’t let that scare you off. Rain in Tahiti is usually short-lived – more of a dramatic tropical flourish than a week-long monsoon. And when it does rain, it fuels the already jaw-dropping greenery. We’re talking misty mountaintops, lush jungle trails, and waterfalls that come alive with cinematic energy.

Bring a light poncho, embrace the moody skies, and enjoy the added bonus: the islands are extra photogenic when wet.

5. Nature’s on full display

Speaking of waterfalls, this is the time to chase them. Papenoo Valley, Vaipahi Water Gardens, and countless secret jungle trails become even more majestic. The flora explodes in a riot of colour, and the air feels thick with life. If you’re into botanic beauty, this season is the time to visit the Harrison Smith Botanical Garden or see the national flower, the tiare, in full bloom.

And if you’re the kind of traveller who likes things wild and weird, head to Vin de Tahiti, the world’s only coral winery, where the grape harvest happens in December. Yes, you read that correctly: coral. Wine. Weird. Wonderful.

6. Fewer tourists = more culture for you

Low season means tours that are usually packed are suddenly intimate, and local guides have more time to share stories, teach you about Tahitian history, or help you perfect your tamure dance. You’ll gain deeper cultural insight and a more meaningful connection with the people and the land.

Imagine learning to make coconut milk the traditional way, weaving your own palm-leaf crown, or hearing ancient legends while surrounded by ancient marae (temples) and zero tourist groups.

7. The diving’s way better

Divers, rejoice: this season also brings higher plankton levels, which means marine life is going OFF. Schools of fish, colourful coral, reef sharks and manta rays, particularly in spots like Rangiroa, Tikehau, and Fakarava, are putting on a show. Visibility’s still great, and dive tours are easier to book, with fewer people onboard and more time underwater.

8. Eat like a local

Another budget-friendly low-season perk? The food trucks. Known locally as roulottes, these open-air gems serve up fresh Tahitian dishes for under AU$15. Think grilled fish with coconut milk, sizzling steak frites, and gooey banana crepes eaten under fairy lights beside a marina. Your tastebuds, and your wallet, will thank you.

So… should you book it? (Spoiler: yes)

If you’ve been dreaming of Tahiti but assumed it was out of your price range, or just don’t fancy rubbing shoulders with cruise ship crowds, the low season is your time to shine.

You’ll still get turquoise lagoons, overwater bungalows (if that’s your thing), lush rainforest, incredible food, and sunsets that make you want to write poetry. But you’ll get it all with a side of stillness, savings, and more local connection.

Float, feast, repeat

A slow burn adventure to Luang Prabang

Justin Jamieson boards a luxury riverboat, eats something mildly illegal, drinks something definitely dangerous, and floats gloriously into oblivion. It’s just another day cruising from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang on the Gypsy.

It starts, like all great adventures, with a boat that looks too good to be true and a glass of something suspiciously strong in my hand. I’m standing barefoot on the Gypsy, a two-cabin floating dream built to drift slowly down the Mekong River from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang, and already wondering if I’ll ever want to walk on solid ground again.

The Gypsy is outrageously good-looking, all teak and soft cushions and open spaces made for doing absolutely nothing. It’s the kind of boat you imagine Hemingway would have chartered if he were less grumpy and had a thing for throw pillows. Two staff flit around discreetly like river ninjas, ensuring that my biggest problem is deciding between another ice-cold Beer Lao or a nap in the sun.

Leaving Chiang Rai behind, we carve through the thick morning mist. Jungle-clad hills rise up on either side, and every now and then, a lone fisherman stares at us, presumably wondering which minor royal or washed-up pop star is floating past.

I spread out across the daybed, sipping G&Ts and reading a book I have absolutely no intention of finishing. This is a slow cruise, and the Mekong, a muddy, muscular beast of a river, doesn’t so much flow as swagger downstream. It suits me perfectly. River boats chug slowly along, the ones heading upstream fighting a battle against the fast-moving Mekong. A “fast boat”, which is basically a surfboard with a massive engine and 8 people strapped to it, zips past us, and I’m reminded of my last trip on this mighty river. Backpacking, sleeping in hammocks and clinging to the edges of a “fast boat”, wishing I’d taken a Laotian “nerve settler” in Pakbeng before climbing on. I toast myself and the Gypsy with another Beer Lao!

The days quickly fall into a rhythm: wake up to the sound of the river coughing and spluttering past, eat something stupidly delicious, lounge about pretending to write deep thoughts in a notebook, wave half-heartedly at passing kids, and drink more things that would make my liver file for a restraining order. But it’s the nights where the real magic happens.

On our second evening, we pull up near Xanghai Village, a pocket-sized cluster of stilt houses so charming it feels like I’ve stumbled into a very well-curated Instagram post. This place is famous, at least to those in the know, for its handmade Laotian whiskey, which is basically rice wine’s bigger, badder, drunker cousin. Somsak, our guide, suggests we head ashore. “Good people here,” he grins. “Good whiskey too.” A statement both promising and deeply ominous.

We weave through the village’s dusty laneways, past chickens scratching around ancient motorbikes, women weaving barely glancing up, and end up in a small courtyard where a handful of locals are already getting a head start on the evening’s festivities. There’s a fire pit crackling away and something roasting over the coals that even from a distance does not look regulation.

Somsak mutters something to the group, and before I can fake an allergy, I’m handed a bamboo skewer topped with what is, unmistakably, a bat.

“Barbecue bat,” Somsak confirms unnecessarily. “Good for stamina.”

Wonderful. Because if there’s one thing I’ve been worried about lately, it’s stamina.

Trying not to think about wingspan, I take a bite. It’s… crunchy. Burnt rubber with notes of despair and regret. I immediately chase it with a shot of the village’s famous whiskey.

The whiskey hits like a freight train. My eyes water. My soul briefly leaves my body. Then someone yells, “Another!” and just like that, I’m locked into a drink-off with men whose livers have clearly been forged in fire. We laugh, we clink tiny glasses, I try to teach them a Johnny Cash song, and I decide that, bat aside, discovering Xanghai village might be the best part of this adventure.

We stumble back to the Gypsy, smelling like smoke, bat, and Mekong mud, and I pass out in the comfort of my soft cosy double bed. Honestly, if I’m going to vomit up questionable wildlife, this is exactly the sort of five-star setting I’d want to do it in.

The next morning, hungover but proud, I drag myself to the sun deck, where the crew, clearly veterans of worse nights, greet me with strong coffee and a delicious breakfast sans wings and fangs. The Mekong, wide and uncaring, keeps on rolling, dragging me deeper into Laos and deeper into a kind of blissful, sun-drenched stupor.

By the time we glide into Luang Prabang, all crumbling French mansions, orange-robed monks, and mango-scented magic, I am practically a new man. A bloated, mildly poisoned man, sure, but a new one, nonetheless.

As I disembark, I look back at the Gypsy bobbing on the river, a little slice of teak-and-cocktail heaven in a mad, beautiful world. I give a small, dignified wave.

And then promptly stagger off to find the nearest pharmacy. Manpower, it turns out, has a price.

Hangovers, Hazy IPAs and the High Alps

One man’s mission to survive Innsbruck’s beer, schnitzel and snow.

I’m dragging my hungover carcass through the medieval alleyways of Innsbruck. This is a city where baroque opulence collides with snow-covered adrenaline. Did I mention the hangover? The kind of hangover that only comes from partying with Austrians during the Downhill World Championships in Saalbach the night before. Austrians plus snow plus a world-class event equals real partying. We’re talking schnapps-fuelled, lederhosen-wearing, après-ski mayhem that makes Ibiza look like a book club.

I’m extremely thankful for the warmth of an early check-in at the Hotel Schwarzer Adler, a hotel 400 years older than my own country. I wonder if Mozart himself ever wandered the hallways. I check in and collect my Ski Plus City Pass. This little card is the golden ticket to Tyrolean fun, giving me access not just to ski lifts in nearby Kühtai, but also to city attractions, public transport, museums, and even Swarovski’s shimmering fever dream of a museum. I do what any responsible journalist would do: go find some crystals.

Swarovski Kristallwelten is like falling headfirst into a glittering fantasy land. The entrance is a grass-covered giant’s head with crystals for eyes. It’s actually more like a Bond lair than a museum. Inside, rooms explode in light, mirrors, and existential sparkle.

One gallery casually displays the number of Swarovski crystals embedded in celebrity costumes over the decades, which is frankly obscene. Elton John, unsurprisingly, leads the charge. His outfits shimmering with enough bling to light a runway you can see from space. There’s a mechanical birdcage, a silent snowstorm that never ends, and a room of music-playing crystals that feels like Brian Eno went on an acid bender at a jewellery store. The highlight is a walkway with a roof of hundreds of crystal speakers, each one speaking to you as you walk underneath; languages from all over the world. It’s truly surreal.

I go full Austrian for dinner with a hearty plate of Tiroler Gröstl and a schnapps at Weisses Rössl, one of Innsbruck’s most traditional inns. It’s all low timber beams, candlelit corners, and centuries of Alpine gemütlichkeit (that’s friendliness). The waitstaff wear dirndls like they mean it, and the menu reads like a greatest hits of Austrian comfort food. I ordered the schnitzel, because you have to. What arrives is a golden, perfectly crisp, pan-fried miracle roughly the size of a snowboard. It crackles under the knife and melts like butter in the mouth. It is easily the greatest schnitzel I’ve ever eaten.

After dinner, I wander slowly and bloated through the backstreets in the moody glow of gaslights and gothic arches. It’s here, happily lost in the old town of Innsbruck, that I stumble upon Tribaun.

It doesn’t look like much. Just a door. But down the steps is a den of hops-fuelled sin. Craft beer from all over Europe, tattooed bartenders with opinions, and a crowd that looks like they argue about fermentation methods for fun. I fall in with some locals who pull me into a “shout”, an endless cycle of buying and consuming increasingly aggressive beers. One hazy IPA hits like a freight train of citrus, pine, and regret. I think I’m winning until I try to stand up.

Morning. Kühtai. A yodelling demon pounds timpani drums in my skull. My ski instructor sizes me up like a butcher choosing which bit to cut first. I’m pale, I’m trembling, but I’m committed.

Kühtai is Austria’s highest ski village, perched at over 2,000 metres, which means snow is pretty much guaranteed. The drive up from Innsbruck is a leisurely forty minutes with increasingly stunning views as you wind up through villages and into Kuhtai. The slopes here are a glorious patchwork of wide cruisers and narrow chutes, flanked by rugged peaks. There’s something for everyone here, easy-going blues that lull you into confidence, and then out of nowhere, sneaky reds and aggressive blacks that demand respect (and functioning knees).

I start with a gentle run to test the structural integrity of my head. It’s going well until I hit an icy patch, and I’m suddenly skiing backwards. Still, my instructor is encouraging, or at least I think that’s what he’s saying in thick Tyrolean dialect while trying not to laugh. We traverse tree-lined paths, open powder bowls, and even flirt with a mogul field. The stunning views make it hard to concentrate on the snow in front of me. The snow is perfect, the air is merciless, and gravity is no longer my friend. I wobble, I slide, I survive. Just.

Lunch saves me. At Kühtaier DorfStadl, out on the deck, I devour a heaving plate of Käsespätzle (think cheese, pasta, bacon, delishessness) and a crisp pilsner, and I’m back! I emerge from my hangover cocoon, part man, part dairy product, but ready to return to the slopes.

Back in Innsbruck, the Old Town waits like a storybook villain: pretty, polished, and probably dangerous. I wander past Rococo buildings, duck into the Hofburg Palace for a hit of imperial delusion, then lose myself in AUDIOVERSUM, a science museum about sound where my battered ears get one last chance at redemption.

Dinner at Wilderin is everything you want a final supper to be. This place is uber local, seasonal and paired with just enough wine to forget the hangover but remember the fondue. I sit up at the bar and befriend the owner, Michael, whose passion for sustainable cuisine is remarkable. He convinces me to try the Austrian specialty, Beuschel. He refuses to disclose the ingredients, and I trust him. It’s delicious. And even after Michael explains that it is a traditional Austrian “grandmother” specialty stew of lung, spleen and heart, I mop up the stringy bits with bread. It’s that good.

On my last day, I head up to Nordkette. It’s three cable cars to the top, each one peeling back layers of the city until all that remains is air, snow, and ego. At the final stop, Hafelekar, I lace up my boots and take the short, snowy hike toward the famed peak, the Top of Innsbruck. It’s not a long walk, but every step carries the weight of 2,300 metres of altitude and the kind of drop-offs that inspire awkward laughter and sweaty palms. One small slip here and I genuinely believe I could slide all the way into Germany, passport-free, face-first, and screaming.

The view is outrageous. On one side, Innsbruck spreads out like a gingerbread model city: spires, pastel facades, and neatly squared-off streets framed by the Inn River. Spin around and you’re staring into the raw, jagged Alps and beyond, the valleys of Bavaria. It’s like standing on the edge of two countries, one foot in Austria, the other dangling temptingly toward a bratwurst-fuelled future. The wind bites, but the scenery punches harder. It’s the kind of panorama that makes you whisper-swear in amazement.

Innsbruck sprawling below, mountains all around. “Fark.”

At lunch, I toast the Tyrol with a glass of something cold, stare into the endless white, and feel like I’ve survived something.

Then, of course, there’s time for one last hurrah. With my train departing in the early evening, I have just enough time for one last visit to Tribaun. The bartender gives me a knowing look and pours another hazy IPA. I raise my glass to Innsbruck, the city that broke me, rebuilt me, and broke me again.

Prost.