The Japanese Way

His hands move quickly and expertly dipping into a large dark bowl of soft white rice. A dab of green wasabi is added before he rolls the mixture into a ball in his palm and carefully layers it with a slice of raw pink fish. With a practised flourish he presents it on the bench in front of me. I reach for my chop sticks and am told no. “Use hands. Hands are better. Old way.” I pick up the yellow tail and rice portion, slip it into my salivating mouth and groan audibly.

I’m at Sentori Sushi in Kanazawa, central Japan eating the best sushi of my life. Nine more servings follow the yellow tail down my grateful gullet: flounder, shrimp soft roe, bail shell, abalone. My chef, Kazuhisa Yoshida, is the third-generation owner of the restaurant which welcomed its first customer seven years after the war (1952). He’s been to Australia twice and speaks English slowly and thoughtfully. He tells me about the local fish market and his grandfather and his fondness for the Australian artist, Ken Done. I watch him operate his knives and carefully wrap seaweed around another delicacy. This is real Japanese sushi, similar yet so very different from the kind we know in Australia and the USA. There is no avocado, cream cheese or cooked meat and the meal has been paired with a sweet local sake. I sip, eat slowly and smile contentedly.

At the meal’s conclusion I ask Kazuhisa about the secret to great sushi. He thinks on this a while. “Hospitality,” he decides. “Fresh ingredients and good rice are needed. But hospitality and presentation make for the best sushi.” When I leave a waiter appears with my winter coat and helps me into it. Kazuhisa follows me to the door and we thank each other gratefully and sincerely. It is the Japanese way.

Luxe living

For a city that’s often touted as the ‘Las Vegas of Asia’, it’s no surprise that Macau is jam packed with luxurious and glitzy hotels. Like it’s American namesake, you’ll even find hotels with names like The Venetian. complete with gondola-filled waterways, and The Parisian where a replica of the Eiffel Tower lights up like a Christmas tree every evening in a spectacular light show.

From the long established hotels around the Macau peninsula to the ritzy neon-lit hotels and resorts on the reclaimed land known as the Cotai area, Macau has enough gold, marble and chandeliers to sink a whole fleet of ships. New resorts springing up offer some serious opulence.

The Galaxy Precinct is a destination in itself. Built at a cost of around US$5.5 billion, it incorporates six world-class hotels (including the all-suite Ritz Carlton), 120 restaurants (eight of them Michelin rated), 200 designer stores and a skytop adventure park. Here you can spend days riding the world’s longest skytop aquatic adventure ride and exploring beach lagoons, rapids, geysers, waterfalls, tropical gardens, waterslides and wave pool.

Developers splashed another $2 billion to create Studio City, a hotel and casino resort with a cinematic theme, and incorporating television and film production facilities. Opened in 2015, its design was inspired by two asteroids shooting through a Gotham City-style building, and the Batman Dark Flight flying theatre attraction is not to be missed.

Style and decor varies with each resort so if you prefer something a little more understated you should still find something to suit.

 

Discover a different side of Japan

Immerse yourself in the bright lights and busy streets of Tokyo before heading off to explore historic Yamaguchi.

Discover Tokyo

A bucket-list destination for many, the best way to take in the many vibrant sights and sounds of Tokyo is via the double decker open-air bus called ‘O Sola mio. On this trip, which runs for about an hour, you’ll pass major attractions such as Tokyo Tower, which, at 333 metres high, is the world’s tallest, self-supported steel tower. The bus also visits Ginza, Tokyo’s most famous upmarket shopping precinct, and Toranomon Hills, a high-rise business district. An absolute tour highlight however, is cruising over Rainbow Bridge, a suspension bridge that crosses northern Tokyo Bay. The harbour views are spectacular, and on the top deck of the bus you’ll feel as though you’re flying through the air.

For unbeatable panoramic views of Tokyo and beyond, Tokyo City View is not to be missed. Situated in the heart of the city centre, the indoor observation gallery sits 250 metres above sea level, while the outdoor Sky Deck is 270 metres above sea level. Iconic landmarks such as the Tokyo Tower and Tokyo Skytree are easy to spot, and on a clear day you can even see out to Mt Fuji. When you’re this high up, and well away from the crowds below, the vast spread of Tokyo and its incredible infrastructure can really be appreciated.

If you’re after an authentic Tokyo dining experience, you can’t go past a meal at an Izakaya, an informal Japanese-style pub. A great place to find an Izakaya is in Kabukicho, which is part of the lively and colourful Shinjuku district – the centre of Tokyo culture. Nearby is the hub of Tokyo’s administration, Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, the JR Shinjuku Station, which services 3.5 million passengers a day, and a chaotic maze of streets lined with a mix of department stores and quirky boutique shops.

A Change of Pace in Yamaguchi

After the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, it’s time to travel to Yamaguchi. From Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport, it’s approximately a 1hr 40mins flight to reach this serene and truly stunning part of Japan.

An important structure of the region is the wooden Kintaikyo Bridge, built in 1673 in Iwakuni. Featuring a series of five wooden arches, it’s a rare sight, even outside of Japan, and its intricate creation is the culmination of a range of masterful techniques.

Also worth a visit is Hagi town, which is where Japanese daimyo Terumoto Mori built his castle in 1604. Now one of Japan’s most prominent historical cities, buke yashiki (samurai houses) from the Edo Period still line the streets, offering an insight into what life might have been like during that time.

A popular destination for many tourists is Tsunoshima Bridge, a toll-free bridge connecting many of the surrounding remote islands. At over 1,780 metres in length, it’s one of the longest bridges in Japan, and since its inauguration in 2000, has featured in several movies, commercial messages and television programs. Stretching out over the clear turquoise blue sea, it makes for a spectacular sight, and it’s definitely a place you’ll want to make sure you have your camera at the ready.

This much sightseeing often builds quite an appetite, which means a visit to the Karato Fish Market in Shimonoseki is in order. Fresh fish and seafood is available to purchase, and every Friday, Saturday, Sunday and national holidays, the first floor of the market turns into a seafood stall, known as ‘Iki-iki Bakangai’. As a festival-like atmosphere grows, crowds of visitors from all over Japan and further afar can enjoy delicacies such as hand-rolled sushi with fresh food, blowfish soup and ‘fuku sashi’ – blowfish sashimi.

Other attractions include historical buildings such as Iwakuni Castle, the Old Megada Family’s House, and the Nagayamon Gate of the Megada Family, as well as art and history museums like the Iwakuni Choko-kan Museum, the Iwakuni Art Museum, and the Iwakuni Shirohebi (white snake) Museum. The Iwakuni Shirohebi Museum is a fascinating place, and the only place in the world that the Iwakuni white snake is found. Visitors can learn about the life and history of white snakes through games and scale models.

Festive Fun

There is always something happening on Macau, a vibrant island just a stone’s throw from Hong Kong. Often touted as the “Vegas of China”, it’s a buzzing place at any time but in 2019 the calendar is jam packed with a mix of festivals and events to commemorate its 20th anniversary as a special administrative region (SAR).

Chinese New Year is where it all starts. Held over 15 days in January or February of each year, this lunar holiday is a spectacular event of dazzling fireworks and colourful street parades. The island’s 650,000 population doubles at this time so be prepared for the masses. 2019 is Year of the Pig.

China loves a good fireworks display and for one month, starting early September, Macau will be celebrating its 30th Fireworks Display Contest, attracting twelve countries from across the world.

Macau has recently joined the elite UNESCO Creative Cities for Gastronomy. It’s an accolade that celebrates its incredibly varied and delicious cuisine, reflecting influences from its Portuguese history. There’ll be plenty of culinary events held throughout the year to help you dive in.

There are lots more events on the calendar, including music, martial arts and seasonal celebrations, so check the schedule before you hit the island.

The quiet side to Macau

For a centre considered one of the most densely populated in the world, Macau has its share of leafy parks and tree lined walking trails to retreat to, as well as historic forts and even cute pandas. Just a stone’s throw from Hong Kong, Macao is an independent territory where historic UNESCO World Heritage sites get cosy against modern skyscrapers.

A short gondola ride will carry you to the Guia Fortress, a 17thcentury colonial fort perched on the highest point of the peninsula.  From here you can peek into mainland China, or wander inside the fort and adjacent chapel for a little artistic fresco action. The 91 metre-high whitewashed lighthouse is a highlight.

If you need a little peace and quiet, head to the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden, secreted away behind high walls within a busy neighbourhood. This public park was once a private garden created by local merchant Lou Kau in 1906. Lose yourself on narrow paths through groves of bamboo and flowering bushes en route to a pond filled with lotus flowers and golden carp. A nine-turn bridge is said to foil evil spirits who can only move in straight lines.

Everyone loves a panda and on the outlying island of Coloane you’ll find Seac Pai Van Park, home to four resident giant panda. On loan from China as part of a breeding campaign, this family of four regularly put on a show as they wrestle and roll down grassy slopes. Make sure you meet the two red pandas too.

Coloane is also home toHac-Sa Reservoir Country Park, often considered the ‘lungs’ of Macao. Here you can wander mountainous forest trails, canoe on the reservoir, get lost in a plant maze, or just fire up the barbecue and chill out.

Finish up at Camoes Garden, once part of a property belonging to the Chairman of the British East India Company in the 18thcentury. This heavily wooded garden is the place to go to watch locals busting out a bit of morning tai chi under towering banyan trees, while caged birds watch on.

If you thought this part of the world was lacking in greenery, think again.

Poetry In Motion

Using the manual settings on your camera can offer total freedom in how you capture movement. From freezing action in a baseball game to taking an abstract shot of a bird in flight that features both sharp and blurry elements, there’s a lot of room for creative license and showcasing your technical prowess. Every photograph can convey a sense of action and texture.

When capturing motion shutter speed is your friend, and the way you utilise it will determine what the final shot looks like. The beauty of toying with this setting is that there’s no right or wrong way to do it. Here are a few different techniques to help take your travel shots to the next level.

Freezing The Movement
Sometimes events pass so quickly we don’t even realise they happened. Most cameras are able to record a scene at up to 1/8000 second, while top of the range models can even capture up to 1/16000 second. That’s a split second of a moment! Most everyday situations, however, can be frozen in time with a shutter speed of around 1/1600 second.

Catching action requires perfect timing. That’s why it’s always a good idea to switch your camera to burst mode when trying to photograph sharp scenes – this setting takes several images in quick succession, giving you a whole range of shots to choose from once the activity is over. The faster your burst rate, the more likely you are to secure that perfect snap.

In general, this technique works best when the action taking place is lightning speed and can’t be seen in detail with the naked eye, such as a wave breaking, birds flying, or a sporting event. A quick shutter speed allows us to freeze a fraction of a moment in time, which otherwise might not have been noticed.

Blurring The Movement
Blurring everything that moves and keeping anything static in focus is one of the most popular ways of portraying movement. It offers a beautiful sense of the passing of time. Even things that barely move can suddenly come alive. Landscape photographers often use this technique to declutter a scene by blurring moving water and making it look smooth.

For this kind of shot you’d usually use a tripod with a remote trigger, but you can do away with this easy-to-lose device by downloading the Olympus Image Share app and shooting remotely with your phone. If you don’t have either of these you can make use of the camera’s two-second timer function to avoid camera shake. When travelling, remember any solid surface can potentially be a good tripod.

The Olympus OM-D series camera has a unique feature that lets you capture movement over a long period of time, called ‘live composition’ mode. You will see the shot build up on your camera’s screen as time passes.

It’s a feature that I love using for exposures of more than 30 seconds – think star trails and storms. If you’ve got a different type of camera the bulb mode and a remote trigger will also do the trick. This allows you to override the 30-second (30”) shutter speed limit set on most DSLRs for as long as you lock the shutter button.

Following The Movement
Panning is the most difficult of the three techniques, and it requires a steady hand. With a moderately slow shutter (1/10 to 1/50 second), aim your camera at the moving subject and follow it all while pressing the shutter down. It requires some practise and you’ll end up with a whole lot of images that won’t make the cut, but when you get it right it’s a very distinctive and beautiful way of documenting action.

Everything that isn’t tracing the movement of the camera will suddenly be blurred and only the subject will be in focus. It gives a great sense of speed and your subject will appear to pop out of the image. This technique works well for objects that are travelling across your frame, either horizontally or vertically. I highly recommend experimenting with different shutter speeds and timing with this technique. Panning scooters passing by or people jogging makes for excellent practise.

Want to step it up? Try the opposite: capture something static while you’re moving for a similar effect. Take a slow shutter shot from a train or car and try to keep your subject in the exact same spot in your frame and watch the world around it blur.

Sense Of Movement
Sometimes, a shot is all about movement even when there isn’t actually anything in motion in the photo. If the subject conveys a sense of action, sometimes it’s enough to just capture it as is: a shot from inside a car, out of a train window or of a person mid-stride are all good examples. We automatically get a sense of going somewhere just by looking at the image.

Photos are all about telling a story, and recording movement helps make us feel as though we’re part of the journey. A good shot will make the viewer think beyond the moment captured and wonder about the context: what led to that very moment and what will happen next.

Chris Eyre-Walker is a member of the Olympus Visionary Program, a team of award-winning photographers supported by Olympus.

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Island hopping delight

With its Tiffany-coloured waters, immaculate white sand beaches and more than 7641 islands to choose from, the Philippines is nothing short of an island-hopping mecca. But with this much choice, how do you choose? Sure, there’s the cyan waters of Palawan, postcard-perfect Coron and the dreamy and newly reopened island of Boracay, but we propose something a little different. Think less time spent catching rays on sun-kissed beaches, more time living out your subaquatic dreams below the ocean’s surface and you get Pescador Island and its surrounds.

From the port of Moalboal, jump into a bangka (boat) with your guide and sail to Pescador. The island itself is like iceberg, only riddled with shrubs and ochre in colour; 10 per cent of its mass sits above the surface, while below the rest is made up of coral that spills on and on before cascading downward to form a stunning reef wall. Slap on your snorkel and glide across its colourful surface in search of tropical fish.

Next, it’s time to banish the idea that sardines are simply a small, oily snacks to be enjoyed. Just a short ride away, shielded from predators and rough tides thanks to its proximity to the shore, is a sardine run. A seemingly endless ribbon consisting of millions of small, slippery fishes clustered together moving together as one, it’s a magical spectacle that needs to be seen to be believed.

And finally, there’s the local sea turtles. They’re somewhat elusive (the best things are, no?), and your bangka skippers will likely jump into the water before you to scout for them to offer you the best chance at spotting them. And there’s nothing quite like gliding alongside a sea turtle.

Once you return to port, tuck into some local flavours over lunch and recount your most epic sightings.

Rainforest resort

Treetop living doesn’t get much more luxurious than this. Hidden amidst a 10 million year old rainforest containing extraordinary biodiversity, The Datai’s award-winning architecture ensures an elegant and spacious home from which to explore a truly wild ‘backyard’.

Canopy rooms will have you face to face with the treetops and its inhabitants, while rainforest villas perch on stilts in the heart of the greenery. If you’re more of a beach person, one and two bedroom villas open onto the white-sand beach of Datai Bay, voted by National Geographic as one of the world’s top ten beaches.

Resident naturalist Irshad Mobarak helps unlock the secrets of the forest at the resort’s Nature Centre located within a tribal-style bamboo longhouse, but don’t be surprised to spot a dusky langur, tokay gecko, or hornbill simply while sipping a cocktail at the bar. With nearby waterfalls, mangrove trails, coral reefs and rainforest walks, the Datai is a nature lover’s dream.

 

Lux it up on safari in Sri Lanka

Hidden deep within the jungle of Sri Lanka’s Yala National Park is probably the last place you’d expect to find a five-star luxury property. Chena Huts isn’t your average accommodation option though, upon arrival you’ll find 14 dome-shaped pods, each with a private plunge pool and all the modern finishes you’d expect of a high-end resort.

But Chena Huts is so much more than your average lavish holiday destination. It is super exclusive, extremely private (each hut is accessible only via raised boardwalk) and the property has been specially designed to harmonise with the jungle environment. It also borders the Indian Ocean on a beach where elephants wander down in the evenings to wash – how incredible is that?!

In fact, it isn’t uncommon for an elephant to strut right through the resort itself! So whilst you’re sipping sundowners after a day out on safari through the national park, keep an eye out for not only elephants, but also leopards, wild boars, buffalos and the elusive and quite dangerous sloth bear.

Tangsi Pink Beach

Named as one of the world’s most beautiful beaches, the pink sands of Tangsi Beach in Lombok is secluded, calm and colourful. Pink sands are framed by green landscapes and crystal blue waters that lie nearly flat most of the time thanks to the protection of the bay.

The beach’s colour comes from the pink coral shards that mix in to the grainy white sand. It’s no surprise, then, that below the ocean’s surface lies an abundance of live coral and sea life, and it’s calm waters make it the perfect place for swimming and snorkelling.

Keep in mind though, Tangsi Beach is fairly remote and undeveloped, so there’s not a lot around and you’ll have to bring your own snorkelling gear, and without hotels or resorts lining this beach, you’re best to stay in nearby Mataram.

Still, it’s this lack of development that makes this beach so wonderful. Lazy days, on pink sands, and the whole ocean to yourself… what more could you want?