A staple on breakfast tables across Sri Lanka, hoppers unite the bright flavours of this island nation in a mouthful, as Natasha Dragun discovers.
If you’re not a fan of washing up, then you’ll love making hoppers (appam), a nuanced coconut-based dish traditional to southern India and Sri Lanka that requires a few pantry staples and very ‘seasoned’ pan to prepare – and very little else.
I was introduced to a variety of this breakfast favourite almost two decades ago, sitting in a Tamil Nadu garden where peacocks crooned and tea was served by dapper bow-tied waiters. My order was string hoppers (idiyaapam): unctuous noodles made from rice flour fermented with coconut water, coconut milk and salt, before being moulded into palm-sized patties then steamed until they resemble wicker mats.
The surprisingly cloud-like parcels were the perfect pouch on which to rest tongue-numbing condiments: coconut sambol (freshly grated coconut, lime, red onion, chilli, Maldives fish flakes, black peppercorns, salt); lunu miris (a spicy paste similar to the former sambol, but minus the coconut); and a menagerie of curries and dahls with aromas I still dream of to this day.
I didn’t think it could get much better – until I landed in Colombo, the steamy Sri Lankan capital, and was tasted the crispier, pancake-like version of the dish.
Rather than being squished into a tangle of noodles, the appam edition of hoppers features a batter that is swilled around your cook’s seasoned (aka rarely washed) pan. The end result is a pearly pancake ‘bowl’ that can be pimped up with a fried egg (recommended) and then topped with all aforementioned accoutrements.
“Think of the pan like a complex painting,” says George, my guide on an Unmapped Travel tour around Sri Lanka. “The artist keeps layering and layering – they add and mould, and things develop and get better over time.” He’s not wrong.
Despite the limited number of ingredients involved and the short cooking time – just a couple of minutes in that magical pan – these breakfast baskets couldn’t get any tastier, or more textural. And it’s not just the cookware adding to the abundance of attitude: there’s plenty of skill in preparation.
The appam flour is customarily made by hand: rice is soaked for six hours before being pounded and then left to brew with palm toddy (fermented sap from coconut flowers) overnight. It’s then seasoned with coconut milk, whole eggs and salt to create a bubbling batter. Some rebels – like my Sri Lankan friend back in Sydney – dare to add a couple of Marie biscuits to the mixture, to give the concoction a malty note that caramelises into crispness around the edges. There’s also a dessert version suffused with smoky-sweet palm syrup.
Making hoppers in a Sri Lankan home is quite possibly the ultimate way to learn about this history of this hands-on dish, as I fast find out on the outskirts of Kandy in the tea-leaf-laced heart of the country. Here, in an eye-popping pink kitchen, the Kolitha family tell me how traditionally, hoppers were cooked at home over coconut-shell embers. The origins of the dish are a little mysterious, although American food writer and historian Gil Marks credits the original recipe to early Jewish settlers in southern India – around 2,000 years ago.
Today, the Kolitha family use the blue-hot flames of a gas stove to ensure the quick firing of the hopper batter in aluminium pans. They prepare the pancakes with deft-like precision while I watch, swirling one of the small, deep vessels over heat until batter spills over the sides, forming lacy, caramel-hued edges.
They then cover the pan to cook the pillowy portion that pools at its bottom – the spongy goodness where eggs are cracked to rest before being topped with black pepper. Coconut crunches in a mortar and pestle, fresh chilli is chopped, limes are squeezed. A quick clatter of crockery later, and the hoppers are stacked, steaming, in front of me. Fragrant, fresh and piping hot – this has to be the ultimate way to start the day.
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Got a sweet tooth? Sri Lankans do, too. Their dessert version of traditionally savoury hoppers sees a heaping of treacle, palm syrup or honey added to the batter. Best served with chopped bananas and milky tea.
An alcohol made from the sap of coconut flowers, toddy usually begins fermenting immediately after being collected by a palm ‘tapper’. Sweet and low in alcohol (around 4%), it’s often turned into jaggery (a type of sugar) or a stronger liquor.
Voodoo first made its way to Louisiana in 1791 when West Africans fled Haiti after the slave revolt and moved to New Orleans (NOLA). It’s in the deep south where they merged their voodoo rituals and practices with the local Catholic population. Voodoo is still very much entrenched in Creole culture, and if you wander around NOLA you’ll find gris-gris dolls, potions and other talismans in stores, such as chicken feet which are believed to bring luck. In the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum, you’ll browse artefacts, antique voodoo dolls, taxidermy and stand before altars where you can leave notes or make wishes. Contrary to popular voodoo misconceptions, only positive wishes here are allowed. So before you ask, no, you can’t hex your ex. voodoomuseum.com
The Hall of Opium Museum in Thailand’s notorious Golden Triangle pulls no punches. It uses multimedia and graphic pictures to educate and elucidate about the perils of opium and drug use. You’ll learn about the history of the Golden Triangle, the origins of opium, the opium war, opium warlords, drug smugglers, the battle against poppy growing and the violence associated with drug trafficking. The most confronting exhibits are in the Opium Effects Zone, where images of long-term drug-affected users are on display.
There’s an artificial poppy field where you can learn about various species of poppy flowers and even a mock-up of a Chinese tea house in Yaowarat. Finish on a high (no pun intended) in the Magic Medicine Zone that also shines a light on the many positive aspects of opioid drugs like morphine.
With drug smuggling carrying the death penalty in Thailand, this museum sends an ominous warning for drug dealers, users and abusers. maefahluang.org
Not all relationships end well and this museum explores the fallout at the end of the relationship rainbow. Housed in a baroque palace, the Museum of Broken Relationships displays personal objects from former lovers, paired with a brief story. For example, the sentence, “He was straight and I wasn’t” is written alongside a pair of basketball shoes. Voyeuristic or pure intrigue? We think it offers a fascinating insight into the human condition. The exhibits range from the light-hearted and hilarious (like the toaster that was pinched so an ex couldn’t make toast again) to heartbreaking and tragic (you can read real-life notes of betrayal and regret). There’s even tickets to the 1968 Mexico Olympics on display, which were used as a lure by a teenage girl to the handsome next-door neighbour, whom she had since married and divorced. In the ten years since it opened, the museum has amassed a collection of some 2,785 objects and has locations in Zagreb and Los Angeles. You can even add to the collection by contributing from your own stash of heartbreak trinkets. brokenships.com
While spending your time at a museum dedicated to human disease sounds like a morose and macabre excursion, the Museum of Human Disease offers a strangely fascinating insight into pathology and anatomy without lending itself to creepiness. Boasting more than 2,500 diseased human tissue specimens, this place is a stark reminder that the life choices we make can be detrimental. The collection includes diseases and their complications, including HIV/AIDs, cancer, strokes, heart attacks, diabetes and the effects that drugs can have on the body. Alien-like tumours sit alongside giant tapeworms, and there are organs on display which have been riddled with tuberculosis. And if you’ve ever wondered what a cancerous lung or a gangrenous foot looks like, you’ve come to the right place. Many of the diseases on show here are associated with poor lifestyle, so if you ever needed some encouragement to kick the bottle, there’s a hanging diseased liver which shows how alcohol abuse can turn it from pretty pink into something that resembles a dropped pie. The displays may be confronting, but the overall message is positive: our body is a temple and if we habitually mistreat it with toxins, we will pay a hefty price. diseasemuseum.med.unsw.edu.au
Bunker 42 is a declassified Cold War military museum in Moscow that also moonlights as an entertainment complex. Once reserved for Stalin during the Cold War, it was a originally designed as a nuclear bunker located 65 metres underground in the centre of the city. This labyrinth, filled with kilometers of tunnels, has now been converted to feature replica KGB interrogation rooms, bombing raid sirens, a Cold War interactive exhibit and a restaurant. Here you can order yourself some borscht, potato pancakes with sour cream and a chaser of home distilled vodka. bunker42.com
When it rolls around to New Year’s Eve each year, it can be difficult to remember what celebrations took place the year before. Was it that epic party in the suburbs? Or was that the year before? Did we sit on a couch and binge Lord of the Rings?
For those on Chimu Adventures’ recent New Year’s Eve Antarctica flight, it is safe to assume that this won’t be a New Year that evaporates from memory. In fact, it is difficult to think of a more blockbuster way to bring in the New Year than at the bottom of the world, with a glass of champagne and endless plains of white.
Giddy excitement at the prospect of catching an international flight for the first time in several pandemic-ravaged years turned into panic. My flight wasn’t on the list of departures. I searched high and low for Qantas flight 1336 to Antarctica, but it was nowhere to be seen. Did I get the time wrong?
It wasn’t until I realised that Antarctica wasn’t the destination, rather Melbourne – this flight is unique in that it is the only international flight departing Tullamarine Airport (that I know of) where the destination point is the same as the departure. Chimu Adventures run flights from Melbourne to Antarctica and back – a 12 hour round trip.
After checking in, and receiving a complimentary Antarctica sticker in my passport (if you don’t get the sticker, did you really go?) we were in the air and on our way to The Big Ice.
Antarctica is perhaps the only place on Earth we haven’t conquered as humans. It is shrouded in mystery, impossible for even the most indifferent of humans to not feel at least a little curious about. This was certainly the case for Dan Bull, world-record holding adventurer who became the only Australian to climb Antarctica’s highest mountain, Mt Sidley (4,285m). Bull was on-board on the night and offered valuable insights about his experiences in a speech to guests during the flight.
There’s not much that can prepare you for the first glimpse of the bottom continent’s coast, blue ocean water and the white of the ice creating a beautiful contrast. As well as being the coldest and windiest of the seven continents, it’s also easily forgotten that it is the most mountainous. So while flying along at 18,000 feet might sound like a long way up in the air, it is in fact quite close to what’s happening below.
Minimal cloud cover meant the vast mountainous regions, covered head to toe in glacier, could be seen without effort, as could the swathes of frozen lakes and ice bergs of epic proportions. Mount Erebus too, the southernmost active volcano on Earth which only erupted two years ago, was visible, steam emitting eerily from its apex.
Perhaps the most striking aspect of Antarctica wasn’t any of the major landmarks that we saw, but the sheer level of white – bright, almost glary white as far as the eye can see.
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At midnight Melbourne time, with complete light visible from outside, there was the most unusual of countdowns into the New Year. The entire plane is in a festive mood, flight attendants and occasionally pilots interacting with the guests as if they are hosting the party. Dan Bull is in demand – walking around fielding questions amicably as if in a 12 hour press-conference.
After plenty more champagne and plenty more white, it’s time to head back to Melbourne. The last few hours are mostly filled with sleep, curtains drawn on the still very bright light outside, and the year gone, and an extraordinary experience.
Better known as the holiday spot for newlyweds or the nearly dead, this idyllic speck of Aussie territory in the South Pacific has a new breed of young locals that have turned its incredible beaches into a party that can’t be missed. For the last three years, the Black Anchor bar in Kingston has started relocating its booze, staff and good times down to the water’s edge. The sunset parties and late-night DJ sets are the place to be for surfers, photographers, drone pilots, jewellery makers, fashion designers and digital nomads that all call the island home. But it’s during the annual simulcast of Triple J’s Hottest 100 that things step up a notch. That’s when a flotilla of eskies, rafts and half-naked bodies – all holding bottomless cocktails – spend dawn until dusk listening to music and floating in the gentle turquoise waters of Emily Bay. They proudly fly a pirate flag, but never fear, as there’s no chance of a mutiny here because outsiders are made to feel very welcome. blackanchorbar.com
Forget about swimming with whales, if you’re after an animal encounter that is truly unforgettable, it’s time to go crab hunting. But we’re not talking about any old crustacean you might just stumble upon at the beach, oh no. The coconut crab – also known as ‘uga’ – is a large nocturnal land arthropod that can grow to one metre in length and weigh up to four kilograms. You’ll find these nightmarish creatures on the island of Niue (where they are actually considered a delicacy), and you can see them up close(ish) with Taue Uga Tours. A local guide will take you deep into the jungle, where you’ll learn all about the lifecycle of the uga and discover some of the methods used to capture them. And if you’re feeling really brave, you may even get to hold one. Just watch out for your fingers. facebook.com/taueugatours
There are 83 islands in the sublime Vanuatu archipelago, but the relatively unknown Kwakea Island – a short charter flight north of Espiritu Santo – is the undisputed adventure utopia for thrill seekers who are desperate to live out their wildest shipwrecked dreams. Australian and Ni-Vanuatu citizen, Brett Kerr, has been coming to Kwakea with his family for over a decade. Setting up Kwakea Island Adventures in 2019 has given him only a limited chance to share this newly-opened slice of paradise with guests that are looking for a private surf break, daily spearfishing, scuba diving and hunting wild boar with locals. This place has certainly got a tinge of Lord of the Flies about it. Pass me the conch. kwakeaisland.com
What do you get when you cross volleyball with murderball? Te Ano, the national sport of Tuvalu. This surprisingly brutal game is played with two balls and two teams made up of men and women of all ages. They line up on the malae (pitch) facing each other, before throwing the balls as hard as they can. Players must hit them back with their hands (in a volleyball style) to prevent them from hitting the ground, as only the designated catcher is permitted to catch the balls. Points are scored when the opposition drops a ball, and the first team to reach ten points wins. Sounds a bit crazy? You bet it is – especially considering the balls are made from dried pandanus leaves, making them super hard and heavy. timelesstuvalu.com
What’s better than a white-sand beach, we hear you ask? A pink one, of course! Les Sables Roses is located on the remote southeast corner of Rangiroa in French Polynesia, and is an Instagrammer’s dream come true. The sand gets its cotton candy-coloured hue from a mixture of crushed shells, eroded coral and foraminifera – a microscopic organism with a pale pink casing. When washed up on the shore and blended with normal sand, it creates the shimmering blush tone that people are so obsessed with. Aside from admiring the sand and taking a million photos of it, the beach is also a wonderful spot for snorkelling, with the nearby reef home to sharks and a vibrant array of tropical fish. tahititourisme.com
Picture the perfect swimming pool. Water so sparkling and clear you could read a book under it, fringed by flawless palms and a temperature so right that a cooling dip perfectly soothes the edge off the afternoon tropical sun. Imagine said swimming pool is on a tiny South Pacific island hundreds of kilometres from civilisation, and is considered crowded when two other people turn up. The stretch of water between Motu Piscine (Swimming Pool Island) and the nearby sandbar is as crystal clear as any pool cleaner’s pond. The fine, white-powder sand that lines the shores creates a blue hue that beckons from across the lagoon to the top of Mount Hiro, the peak of Raivavae Island, one of the more remote of French Polynesia’s Austral Islands. One of the few pensiones in the region will set up a picnic for you with cold beer and fresh fruit. It’s perfect here. Say hi to Eleanor, she’s awesome. raivavaetama.com
There are few cooler experiences than diving into the warm waters of Marovo Lagoon to swim with a fever of manta rays. This is exactly how a perfect day at Uepi Island Resort in the Solomon Islands begins. Luckily for Uepi guests, there is a manta ‘cleaning station’ just a three-minute boat ride from the jetty. Here, the mantas circle a coral bommie, while copepod parasites clean their skin and gills. This allows snorkellers to swim among these graceful giants as they go about their day spa. If you can hold your breath long enough, you can even swim below and almost touch their bellies. And best of all, yours is the only boat there. You’ll see more mantas than tourists. uepi.com
TREEHOUSE Treehouse Bure on Matangi Private Island Resort, Fiji
A treehouse probably isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of accommodation options in Fiji. Overwater bungalows? Sure. Swanky resorts? Yep. But a treehouse? No way. Well, let us be the ones to introduce to you the incredible split-level treehouse bures of Matangi Private Island Resort. Nestled high up in the lush rainforest foliage, these three unique abodes all feature a king-size bed, outdoor lava rock shower and hot tub, spacious sun deck with ocean views and – wait for it – a daily supply of freshly baked cookies. If you can tear yourself away from this little slice of treetop heaven you’ll discover there’s plenty to do on this pristine 97-hectare island, including scuba diving, hiking, fishing and sailing. fiji.travel
Soaring through a jungle canopy at high speeds – with nothing but a harness and some leather gloves – is not just a cool way to get from A to B, it makes you feel like Tarzan or an elite SAS soldier descending into a covert South Pacific mission. There’s no better way to see the dense rainforest of Vanuatu’s main island of Efate than on a Jungle Zipline tour. After a helicopter ride up to the island’s highest peak, you can spend more than three hours traversing between ridiculously high platforms, before zipping across a massive valley with panoramic views over Mele Bay. For the full experience, we recommend not holding onto your belt. You’ll look way cooler (and less petrified) with your arms outstretched. vanuatujunglezipline.com
The ultimate dream for all surfers is a perfect set of private waves. In the remote northern corner of Santa Isabel in the Solomon Islands, Kagata Surf Village boasts secret breaks, tropical waters, friendly locals and a slower pace of life. When at Kagata, you’re tech-free and living a simple back-to-basics existence. In the morning you’re out fishing for your dinner, snorkelling the reefs at sunset and filling in downtime by riding the most epic, hidden swell in all of the South Pacific. Breathe in the fresh air and forget about the last few years of lockdown life. A stay at Kagata is good for the soul. surftheearth.com.au/kagata-village
Like everyone else in the world, you’ve probably heard of the Blue Cave in Vanuatu. But this secret spot in Tonga is so cool, and so different, it makes the Blue Cave look boring. Mariner’s Cave is on the west wall, at the north end of Nuapupu Island. The secret entry is between two and three metres underwater, so you have to hold your breath for a while to be able to come up inside the cave. Once inside, the only light is the bright turquoise blue tones that stream through the underwater entrance. Best time to snorkel or dive here is later in the afternoon when the western sun is stronger through the entrance you’ve just swum through. A warning: the swell can get pretty big in this cave, so take a buddy for safety.
OUTER BODY EXPERIENCE Ronnie’s Nakamal (Kava Bar), Vanuatu
Kava is almost ubiquitous with celebration in this part of the world, but the toxins from the root which make the questionable brown liquid in Vanuatu are known for being particularly potent. Maybe that’s the secret as to why the Ni-Vanuatu are so happy all the time? Nakamals (kava bars) dot the roadside of most major villages, but you know kava has been brewing come dusk when you see the prick of a red light bulb hanging in the darkness. In the capital of Port Vila, Ronnie’s Nakamal is an institution. If you’re a kava virgin, try gulping down just half a shell to start with. This stuff knocks your socks off. vanuatu.travel
A patch of palm-fringed infertile land on the island of Niue may seem like the last place you’d expect to find a sculpture park, but this tiny atoll in the South Pacific is full of surprises. Located just two kilometres from the village of Liku, the Hikulagi Sculpture Park was established in 1996 by members of the Tahiono Arts Collective – a group of local and New Zealand-based artists who wanted to create a space for people to showcase their work and also highlight environmental issues such as climate change and pollution. Most of the sculptures have been crafted using recycled objects, and visitors can even add their own touch to Protean Habitat – the centrepiece of the park and an ongoing, ever-changing project. niueisland.com
Have you ever heard of the timeless South Pacific town of Taiohae in Nuku Hiva? Don’t worry, neither has the rest of the world. As sailboats bob in the harbour here, locals cruise through the town on horseback. Nuku Hiva is huge (the second largest island in French Polynesia after Tahiti) but it’s virtually empty. It’s most recognisable by the razor-edged basaltic cliffs smothered in green foliage, which plunge into the Pacific waves below. Inland, there are lush waterfalls and valleys which quickly rise into green, prehistoric plateaus. But Nuku Hiva isn’t just a hidden paradise, it’s also home to French Polynesia’s most mystical ruins. You could spend an entire day just wandering around the remnants of Nuku’s sacred marae (religious sites), picturing yourself mixing with locals on the shores of an ancient world. tahititourisme.com.au
Blue River Provincial Park is just 60 kilometres from Noumea, but on arrival you’d think you were entering another country, as the crimson red dirt and dense forest surrounding the valley is more reminiscent of inland Queensland. Grab a kayak from the lone adventure hire shack in Pont Perignon and paddle along the river, moving through the thousands of bleached gum oak trunks that have emerged from the creation of a dam upstream. You can even pull your kayak up onto the thick mud and wander the river’s banks. Don’t be surprised if you’re the only person here. Our pro tip is to make your way out at dusk, because nothing is more terrifying (or cooler) than seeing these eerie river ghosts in the moonlight. newcaledonia.travel
Much like the mystery and intrigue that swirls around Stonehenge and the statues of Easter Island, Samoa also has its very own perplexing ancient structure: the Pulemelei Mound. Located deep in the overgrown wilderness of Savai’i, nobody can quite explain exactly when this huge, pyramid-like pile of basalt stones (it measures 65 by 60 metres) appeared, or even why it is there. Theories suggest it was used for religious ceremonies or as a burial monument or lookout platform, while recent excavations hint at some kind of settlement, with ovens and stone tools found dating back 2,000 years ago. Whatever its purpose, you can find the impressive mound slowly being swallowed by vegetation not far from Letolo Plantation, and if you climb to the top you’ll be rewarded with views of the ocean. samoa.travel
WELCOME TO THE SOLOMONS THE SOUTH PACIFIC’S COOLEST COUNTRY
The cool kids at school were always mysterious. There was an aura of unknown about them that continually surprised you.
Sure, there were more popular kids – the flashy wannabes that demanded all the attention and loved a crowd – but it was the cool kids that you really wanted to be friends with. They were the ones that took you to the unexpected corners of the playground and on adventures you never thought possible.
Welcome to the Solomon Islands, the coolest kid in the South Pacific. This is a country that in 2019 had less than 30,000 visitors, and we just can’t understand why.
Just a short, three-hour flight from Brisbane in Australia, the Solomons are made up of just under a thousand islands sprinkled throughout the clear Coral Sea. These islands are home to a range of low-key resorts, quaint village stays, private islands and experiences with locals that will change your life.
Before breakfast, you can be swimming with mantas in the world’s second largest lagoon, then in the afternoon you’re diving down to a Japanese troop carrier sunk by the US forces in World War II.
Why not hike into a dormant volcano or spend the night in a treehouse, overlooking a perfectly still, turquoise lake? Drink a Solbrew (local beer) in an overwater bar as local villagers dance to traditional music. Freedive through underwater caverns and into the bellies of ancient volcanic islands. Disconnect from the world and surf on private breaks with locals, rarely ever seen by the rest of civilisation. Or simply spend a day on your own island, in a hammock, watching the blues and greens of the sea change colour with the rising and setting of the sun.
If it’s high-rise resorts, club sandwiches and day spas you prefer, then this cool kid in the South Pacific is definitely not your friend. But if it’s boutique, barefoot, off-the-grid escapism that you’ve been craving over the last 18 months, then join the gang. This is seriously the place for you. Even the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge spent their honeymoon at Tavanipupu Resort in Marau Sound. But let’s be honest, the Sollies are much more suited to the cooler prince. You know? The other one… We’re looking at you, Haz. visitsolomons.com.sb
Amid the devastating tourism downturn experienced in Fiji, two mates who met at university, Gavin Statham and Simon Gelling (an Aussie expat from country NSW), have come together to create the Kailoma Brewing Company, a micro-brewery that produces Fiji’s first-ever craft beer range. Their new beer is called Mokusiga (mo-koo-sing-a) which is a colloquial term used by locals as an expression for killing time. The word is used to embody the very essence of relaxing in Fiji and not having a care in the world. For anyone who has ever visited Fiji’s Coral Coast, time here can feel almost elastic. Which is why right now – as we’re desperately counting the hours until we can travel again – we really like the idea of Fiji time in a bottle. mokusiga.com.fj
CONSERVATION Release turtles back into the wild, Arnavon Islands
On a tiny atoll, hidden among seven hundred odd islands in the Solomons archipelago, is the South Pacific’s largest rookery of the critically endangered Hawksbill turtles. The Arnavon Islands are about as far off the grid as you can imagine, and it’s here that local rangers from the neighbouring islands of Kia, Katupika and Waghena work tirelessly to protect the turtles’ breeding habitats. A stay in the Arnavon Islands can include assisting these rangers with their nightly monitoring of egg laying and – depending on your time of visit – releasing the hatchlings into the sea. The water and corals here are untouched and truly spectacular, making for a great spot to go snorkelling, too. Our tip is to stay at Papatura Resort for a few nights and adventure up to explore the islands. papatura.com
Markets in the South Pacific can cast a spell over you. They’re frenetic, friendly and an assault on the senses. But in New Caledonia’s capital, Noumea, Le Marché de la Moselle is a true microcosm of French and South Pacific culture. Here, fresh fish, fruit and vegetables are packed at almost shoulder height everywhere you look. Locals spruik and shout their discounts at you in French, but the pièce de résistance is the hexagonal (and very French-looking) creperie and breakfast bar. La Buvette du Marché serves delicious baked eggs, pastries, crepes and an espresso that wouldn’t be out of place in Le Marais. Come for the food, but stay for the conversation with local traders and fishermen. newcaledonia.travel
Ben Wilson is best known for once kitesurfing the biggest wave in history at the iconic Cloudbreak in 2011. It was so big and so epic that car company Jeep turned the ride into a global television advertisement. Ben’s love for kiting all started on nearby Namotu Island, which is in the Mamanuca Island group, just off the coast of Nadi. Namotu gets surf and wind year-round, and has a wide variety of reefs for beginners and experienced surfers. The trade winds have made Namotu Ben’s playground and his place of work. He runs private and small-group kitesurfing experiences, including his infamous seven-day Kite Week. Beer yoga, paleo food, charter fishing expeditions, dedicated coaching and world-class equipment – this place seriously has it all. namotuislandfiji.com
It may not be the highest peak on Rarotonga, but Te Rua Manga (also known as The Needle) is certainly the most recognisable. Jutting out of the green jungle canopy like a – you guessed it – needle, the almost two-kilometre hike to reach this landmark starts south of Avatiu Harbour and follows a well-marked route through some of the island’s most rugged terrain. It’s pretty steep in sections and you’ll be scrambling over enormous tree roots and slippery boulders, so a good level of fitness (plus plenty of water and mosquito repellent) is required. When you reach the base of Te Rua Manga itself you’ll notice chains and ropes on the rock face – only attempt to scale the spire if you’re an experienced climber and have brought along the right gear. Besides, the spectacular views are pretty much the same anyway, so soak them in and enjoy! cookislands.travel
Never heard of Wallis and Futuna? You’re not alone. Comprising three main tropical islands and a smattering of tiny islets, this French territory lies right in the heart of the Polynesia/Melanesia region, situated between Fiji, Tuvalu, Tonga and Samoa. But while all of these South Pacific hot spots are well and truly on the travel radar, Wallis and Futuna has somehow managed to keep a low profile. And that means its postcard-perfect beaches, untouched reefs and verdant jungles are waiting to welcome you. Just don’t expect any souvenir shops or crowded streets of tourists; the pace is far slower here, so be sure to indulge in French pastries and fresh seafood, chat to the (very friendly) locals and enjoy basking in the beauty of this pristine, raw paradise. wallis-et-futuna.wf
Papua New Guinea Walindi Plantation Resort in Kimbe Bay is in Papua New Guinea’s forgotten West New Britain Province, and despite being around for nearly three decades, it remains one of the best-kept secrets right on Australia’s doorstep. This family-owned dive resort somehow manages to provide its guests with that perfectly balanced flop and drop holiday, mixed with an adventure retreat and a true local villager experience. Walindi’s famous liveaboard dive boat, the MV Febrina, is known for searching out some of the best diving visibility on the planet. And for those looking for something even cooler, the abandoned Talasea Airstrip is a scene straight out of an Indiana Jones film. Several World War II planes, including an old American B-52 bomber lie in stasis beneath a tangle of jungle and time. walindiresort.com
DONUT ISLAND (WHENUAKURA)
Not far from Slipper Island, just a few hundred metres off the main beach of Whangamata town, Donut Island and its special geological formation can be found. Named specifically for the hidden hole in its centre, the ‘donut’ can be reached by paddleboard or kayak in just a few minutes. The hole is a result of a collapsed volcanic blowhole that has created a stunning turquoise lagoon. Search for the little cave to access the interior of the island, and marvel at the secret inside. Your Insta feed will love you for it.
Get there: hire a paddleboard or kayak in Whangamata town.
D’URVILLE ISLAND
For what is quite a big landmass, D’Urville Island is still one of the least-visited spots in all of New Zealand. There are only a handful of accommodation options here, with the upmarket D’Urville Island Wilderness Resort a more comfortable option compared to the rugged, Robinson Crusoe-esque fishing and hunting shacks that are camouflaged by the island’s wild landscape. D’Urville is on the outer edge of the Marlborough Sounds – a series of idyllic flooded valleys at the very tip of the South Island. The area is renowned for its great wine, sunshine and the aquaculture industry that’s sprung up in its hundreds of sheltered bays. D’Urville itself is so hard to reach that most New Zealanders will question it’s actual location. The French Pass – which is the narrow gap between the mainland and D’Urville Island – sees a huge volume of water rip through at each tide, creating whirlpools and dramatic currents.
Get there: by taking a winding drive from Blenheim or Nelson, followed by a short water taxi.
MOTURUA ISLAND
Singling out one island in an area that is literally called the ‘Bay of Islands’ is a little arbitrary. After all, there are 144 of them – mostly uninhabited – but many of which have stunning beaches and untouched forests. However, Moturua stands out for its fascinating history. Earthworks from several Maori pa (fortified villages) can be explored, and remnants of a World War II station are still visible. Most interestingly, the island was also the site of some of the earliest visits to New Zealand by Europeans. Captain Cook anchored in one of the bays, and a few years later in 1772 a French party also set up camp on the island, laying claim to the country. Unfortunately for them, the local Maori decided enough was enough, killing the French leader and 24 sailors, completely derailing their plans
for colonising the country.
Get there: access is by private boat, kayak or water taxi from Paihia.
SLIPPER ISLAND
Just three kilometres off the Coromandel Peninsula, this absurdly pretty place is home to a single resort. It covers the majority of Slipper’s 224 hectares, yet it features just five chalets, two dorm rooms, a handful of glamping tents, and a more rustic (and much cheaper) BYO tent-style camping ground in a private bay. It’s a remarkable setup and oddly affordable — given that for just AU$130 per person, per night 20 friends can book this entire island for themselves.
But you’ll need to bring your own food and booze as there are no restaurants or bars. The water is the major drawcard of this spot, with white sandy bays on the island’s western side and rocky coves to the east. Snorkelling, swimming and kayaking are the go-to adventure activities, with excellent fishing from land or boat.
Get there: by water taxi from nearby Tairua (15 minutes) or helicopter from Auckland.
RAKINO ISLAND
There’s a good chance you’ve heard of the popular Waiheke Island, with its generous covering of vineyards and restaurants. But have you ever heard of Rakino? Just a stone’s throw from Waiheke, and accessible by ferry from downtown Auckland, Rakino is far more tranquil than its brassy, upmarket neighbour. That’s partly because the island’s inhabitants live completely off the grid, with all power and water coming from solar panels and rain. There are no shops on Rakino, but you can rent a charming holiday house (also known as a ‘bach’ in New Zealand) for the ultimate unplugged getaway. The best way to get around the island, according to the ferry service’s website, is “walking or by tractor”. So… you get the picture.
Get there: by ferry or private boat from Auckland.
GREAT MERCURY ISLAND
Great Mercury Island occupies an odd place in the New Zealand national consciousness. It’s owned by Sir Michael Fay and David Richwhite, two merchant bankers who became extraordinarily wealthy in the 1980s by helping the country privatise its rail, telecoms and banking sectors. A couple of deals later and the pair were rich enough to buy this piece of paradise off the coast of the Coromandel, where they now host guests like U2’s Bono in a luxury lodge for a piddling AU$46,000 per night. The good news for the rest of us regular folk is they still let visitors experience the island’s perfect beaches, from where you can enjoy spectacular swimming, scuba diving and gathering your own world-class seafood.
Get there: charter a boat from Whitianga (one hour) or a helicopter from downtown Auckland (30 minutes).
STEWART ISLAND (RAKIURA)
Separated from the South Island by the stormy Foveaux Strait, Stewart Island is like a giant nature reserve. Also known by its Maori name, Rakiura, the island has a cool, southerly climate and some unique wildlife. It’s a bit like some kind of Tiny Tasmania, complete with all the same unpretentious locals that you’d expect to find in a spot detached from mainland life. Oban is the only town here, and there’s also just one pub. Don’t miss trivia night on a Sunday when it feels like the whole island turns up to drink pints, invent silly team names and argue about Queen lyrics. Aside from enjoying the pub, you’ll also want to experience some of Rakiura’s famous fauna. Head up to the rugby pitch at dusk for your best chance of spotting wild kiwi, watch out for whitetail deer that almost outnumber humans, or go cage diving with great white sharks. Our must-do experience? Charter a light aircraft from the mainland and have it land you on a remote beach near a Department of Conservation hut. You can stay in the rustic cabin until you run out of food and wine – or your flight comes back for you.
Get there: catch a ferry from Bluff (one hour) or a flight from Invercargill (20 minutes).
GREAT BARRIER ISLAND (AOTEA)
Staying on Great Barrier Island is like experiencing New Zealand as it was in 1960. Everything here happens at about a quarter of the pace of the rest of the country. There’s an old-fashioned charm to the way things are done by the very friendly 800 locals, and there’s a noticeable nostalgic beauty that hangs in the air. The water is brighter and clearer than anywhere else in the country, but be prepared for the raucous, rust-coloured forest parrots called kaka that screech at you from the sky. There’s a good range of accommodation available – from backpacker lodges and campsites, to some very fancy houses. Stay, surf, swim, then try to work out the logistics of how you could relocate here for the rest of your life.
Get there: a car ferry sails daily from downtown Auckland (four hours) or a simpler option is to fly from Auckland Airport on one of the island’s two airlines (30 minutes).
CAMPBELL & AUCKLAND ISLANDS
Wet, cold and lonely, Campbell Island (Motu Ihupuku) sulks 700 kilometres south of the mainland, with Auckland Island (Motu Maha) a smidge closer at 460 kilometres. Despite this remoteness, each island attracts a regular trickle of visitors. Wildlife and photography buffs are drawn to the rich bird and sea life that use the island as their home, while visitors carefully pick their way around the sea lions that litter the beaches and snooze in the wind-gnarled forests. Conservation laws lay out strict rules around keeping a reasonable distance from the wildlife – though it’s sometimes hard to comply when a blubbery alpha male sea lion decides to challenge you. Which does happen here on occasion.
Get there: Heritage Expeditions’ next departure is in early November.
I never imagined I’d feel obliged to entertain a baby sea lion. I had watched her from ankle-deep water, but she stared at me, unimpressed. She clearly wasn’t the passive type.
I slide into the water and start splashing and somersaulting.
To my delight, she twists and turns alongside me. She scrutinises me through my mask, quivering whiskers almost touching me, before torpedoing away and circling back.
I stop to rest, and she lies on the bottom, dejected puppy eyes imploring me to swim. I’m just about spent, but her life force seems inexhaustible.
My sea lion experience is one of many encounters with the pulsating life of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. Locally known as just the Abrolhos, the islands lie 60 kilometres west of Geraldton, Western Australia. The 122 islands are clustered into three main groups and have exceptional natural and historic value. In 2019, 100 of the islands became a national park. The other 22 islands host colourful lobster fishing and aquaculture camps, only usable by the lease holders.
For those of us without our own fishing camp, it’s tricky to stay at the Abrolhos. There are no hotels and the best way to explore the islands is on the low-key cruise boat, Eco-Abrolhos.
The Eco-Abrolhos’ itinerary showcases all the unique offerings of the Abrolhos, including its wildlife, characters and history. It’s a boutique affair, with a relaxed and friendly vibe. While some cabins have king beds, I’m staying in a more budget-friendly lower-level bunk room. The crew is led by father and son, Jay and Bronson Cox, who are owner and skipper respectively, and whose sledging interaction means they double as a comedy duo.
The Abrolhos ecosystem is unique, and my sea lion experience is made even more remarkable by the latitude at which it occurs. Australian sea lions are traditionally found in cooler parts of the country, but here, in the northernmost part of their range, I’m watching them play in coral gardens. The coral reefs themselves are unusual, being the southernmost coral reefs in the Indian Ocean. Cooling currents from nearby deep waters have so far helped the reefs resist the worst of coral bleaching.
Sea birds also join the biological bonanza here. During nesting seasons, the islands are a riotous place, hosting millions of bird pairs. Species include white-faced storm petrels, little shearwaters, sooty terns and brown noddies. The overlap of temperate and tropical species and the sheer intensity of life here means these islands have sometimes been called Australia’s Galapagos.
Our trip commences as sunrise peers over the yachts in Geraldton harbour. Although the Abrolhos have a fearsome reputation for wind-induced seasickness, today is uncharacteristically smooth. As the boat chugs through its four-hour journey to the islands, I sit up front watching flying fish skim the glassy surface.
Eventually, a smudge on the horizon morphs into the islands known as the Southern Group. Only a few metres high and composed of rubble and shrubby vegetation, we wonder how anything survives here.
Underwater, life is as rich as the land is stark. Donning masks and snorkels, we slide into the sea at Coral Patches. Staghorn corals outstretch their fingers in beige, purple, cream and blue, sheltering butterflyfish and damselfish as schools of buffalo bream buzz by. Bumphead parrot fish casually graze on corals, shimmering in turquoise and purple. Peeking under tabletop corals, I find the spaces jam-packed with lobsters, their masses of antennae appearing tangled.
Next, we peek into the Abrolhos lifestyle by visiting tiny Basile Island. Jetties protrude from the island like bike spokes, and the ramshackle houses are mostly cobbled together from asbestos sheets. What they lack in architectural credentials, they make up for in bright colour schemes, and shacks here are resplendent in blue, purple, orange and yellow.
Our tender eases over the corals and turquoise shallows. Reaching the island, we’re warmly welcomed to the home of brothers, Peter and Nino Scarpuzza, second-generation lobster fishers.
“My father came out in ‘52 from Sicily,” says Peter, as he brews real Italian coffee for our group. Peter explains that previous rules restricted the fishing season to several months, prompting fishing families to relocate to the islands fulltime to maximise catches during this time. Since 2009 the fishery has been managed on an annual basis and there are now fewer people here at once. But Peter and Nino prefer to be here anyway. “Why would you want to go into town?” Peter says. “Too many people!”
All this talk of lobsters is making me hungry, so the next morning I join Jay and my fellow adventurers for a fishing tour from the large tender, King Diver. Skimming through a dusky pink dawn, we arrive at pots that Jay baited yesterday. I’m transfixed as our deckhand pulls up the pots, each one containing up to 10 of the prized crustaceans.
It’s an industry that Jay knows inside and out. He worked as a lobster fisher here until he started this business in 2003. The lobster fishery is strictly managed, but their abundance means we can easily, and legally, catch enough to keep us decadently scoffing lobsters, cooked every way possible, for lunch and dinner every day of the cruise.
Our next stop is Post Office Island, historically a drop-off point for mail for the surrounding islands. The limestone rubble island curves like a donut missing a bite, and encircles a milky, aqua lagoon.
Bizarrely, our first stop is a long-drop toilet. A now decommissioned relic of past disposal methods, it directly overhangs the ocean. Today, the pathway to this museum piece is marked by the rib bones of a long-deceased whale, and it’s surely one of the most photogenic toilets in the world.
The undisputed queen of this island is Jane Liddon. She was one of the first female lobster skippers, working alongside her dad and her pioneering aunt, Muriel Thomas, who was better known as Moo. These days Jane’s sons run the lobster business, while Jane herself cultivates black pearls.
Her home perches between the sea and lagoon and is delightfully eclectic. Incorporating corrugated iron and salvaged wood, it’s painted a cheery turquoise. In the courtyard, we sit among oceanic curios like dolphin vertebrae and sculptural chunks of coral. Jane passes around different pearl shells and describes the intricate process of pearl production, from seeding by Japanese technicians to harvest, five years later.
A visit to the jewellery ‘showroom’ (Jane’s kitchen and sunroom) always results in a few sales, thanks in part to that personal connection, she explains. “People can see the pearl farm, and they’re right here in my shack.” Sure enough, credit cards are brandished, and ears and necklines at dinner that night are decidedly more lustrous.
Despite the larger-than-life characters and the prolific wildlife, every visit to the Abrolhos involves confronting tales of death. Shipwrecks litter the reefs, and we hear stories about the Zeewijk and the Windsor. But the darkest shipwreck story of all is that of the Batavia.
The Batavia, the flagship of the Dutch East Indies fleet, sunk in the Wallabi Group in 1629. It was carrying untold riches and over 300 crew, soldiers and passengers. Around 200 survived the shipwreck, but as we learn, their living nightmare was just beginning, as they tried to avoid being murdered by brutal mutineers.
At West Wallabi Island, we hike with naturalist guide Paul Hogger to uncover part of the Batavia story. Here we see Australia’s oldest European buildings, two simple rock forts built by the loyal soldier Wiebbe Hayes and his comrades as they repelled the mutineers. West Wallabi and neighbouring East Wallabi were named by the Dutch for their population of tammar wallabies, although today, they successfully elude me.
As I step ashore on nearby Beacon Island, it appears no different to any other island here. But almost four hundred years ago, on this speck of inhospitable rubble, around 120 Batavia survivors were murdered.
Jay leads us to one of the chilling archaeological dig sites where four bodies were found. It’s a goosebumps moment as we gaze across to Long Island, where the worst mutineers were finally hanged. From here, traumatised survivors would have clearly seen their suspended bodies, left to swing in the fierce Abrolhos winds.
Jay says one of the archaeologists told him of an astonishing find. “In the chest cavity of one of the bodies, was a white-faced storm petrel, nesting,” he says. I raise a sceptical eyebrow, but he assures me it’s true. This place is alive, even in the face of death.
On our final day, we’ll be leaving the Abrolhos by light aircraft, picked up from the dusty East Wallabi airstrip by an assortment of tiny planes. But before then, there’s time for one last snorkel.
The reef here is thriving, and while I watch a Finding Nemo-like fish the size of my fingernail dancing in his anemone, I almost bump into a squad of tiny squid. Suddenly, I’m swimming through cloudy water surrounded by miniature spheres, dots suspended in the water like red-coloured snow.
I’m puzzled, but then it dawns on me. It’s coral spawn, released on last night’s tide. Most of these baby corals will die, but the sheer volume of eggs means enough will survive to sustain these reefs.
The life force of the Abrolhos seems irrepressible.
2pm
Good things take time; that’s why you’re starting early in the afternoon at Brisbane Distillery Company. While it’s tempting to pull up a seat at the bar and browse the drinks menu, you’re really here for the gin school. Enter the classroom at the rear to find test tubes, stoves and Ukrainian copper stills boiling away, and be guided as a master distiller helps you choose from more than 140 botanicals to craft your own personalised gin. Distilling does require patience and devoted research, which is why the experience includes multiple rounds of cocktails to help you better study the craft.
BRISBANE DISTILLERY COMPANY
99 Jane Street, West End bstill.com.au
4.30pm
A short walk northeast brings you to the bustle of Fish Lane. This arterial laneway leads right into the city’s arts district and once serviced South Brisbane’s rough-and-tumble working-class docks. Browse luxury furniture and knick-knacks at La Casa Vita or pause to admire the vibrant street art splashed on every wall, including an enormous octopus enveloping a hot yoga studio. Bomb shelter turned boho bookshop, Paladar Fumior Salon, is the ideal place to sip a tactical mid-afternoon espresso, while beer nerds will froth Saccharomyces Beer Café (try saying that three times fast after a few pints). For a classy touch, settle in at Fish Lane’s newest addition, Southside, and enjoy a drink in the lush jungle beer garden.
5.30pm
Hail a cab and scoot along the river’s edge to Will and Flow. The city’s newest overwater bar, dotted with dwarf palm trees and a centrepiece wood oven, brings distinct Miami vibes to the Brisbane River. Soak in the sunset while tucking into an eclectic menu that caters to the grazers and the bottomless pits. Unsurprisingly for a bar set among mangroves, the star of the show is the seafood, with a cavalcade of prawns, salmon, oysters and crabs ready for devouring. Try the scallops Saint Jacques – a dreamy collaboration of scallop, crispy prosciutto and bechamel sauce that will have you licking the shell when nobody’s looking.
7pm
Catch a different side to the city from the water aboard a CityCat Ferry as you cruise north to Riverside Ferry Terminal before walking to Howard Smith Wharves, the city’s latest nightlife hotspot. Heritage-listed, but abandoned since the 1960s, the wharves have been given new life and filled to the brim with stylish eateries and moody bars. Grab a beer at sprawling Felon’s Brewing or opt for playful cocktails and oysters at pastel-hued Mr Percival’s. If you prefer to be above the water rather than on it, The Fantauzzo Hotel’s rooftop bar offers stellar views of the wharf and Story Bridge.
8.30pm
The Greek name Agnes means ‘pure’, and what’s purer than fire? That’s the philosophy that chef and co-owner Ben Williamson has taken to heart at this dimly-lit restaurant housed in an old brick warehouse in the Valley. Williamson eschews gas and electricity in favour of wood-fired cooking, using flame and smoke to create hearty dishes designed to share with friends, like smoked lamb neck or hay-roasted mussels. Yes, everyone is dressed in black and the lighting is spare, but don’t be fooled – underneath lies a gregarious heart, and the chatty bartenders are more than happy to show you some of the restaurant’s hidden secrets if you ask nicely.
10pm
Want to imbibe a liquid burger, slurp down some zombie brains or sip from a glass stiletto? Located just off the Valley’s main drag, Viscosity is a mad lab of cocktail creations where mixology and millennial nostalgia meet in a fluorescent wonderland full of cartoon and video game references. You won’t find traditional cocktails shaken and stirred here, but instead a revolving range of creatively imagined bevs constructed using tweezers and droppers, then served in bespoke glasses. Go all in with the Slurpee shot rack.
11pm
Once you’re done with glowing test tubes, head around the corner to At Sixes and Sevens on James Street, a uniquely Queensland white-gabled cottage and public house that combines the city’s history with the casual glam of Fortitude Valley. The tiered and astro-turfed patio out front, with its festoon lights and charming tendrils of low-hanging ivy, is the place to be seen. Inside you’ll find two bars and more intimate settings for romantics or groups of friends looking for extra space while they share a jug of white peach sangria.
AT SIXES AND SEVENS
67 James St, Fortitude Valley sixes.com.au
12.30am
It’s time to burn some calories on the dance floor. Backtrack west towards Chinatown, where you’ll find a not-so-secret speakeasy waiting in Prohibition. Inspired by the glamour, bootlegging and hard liquor of the 1920s, this cavernous underground nightclub gives you the choice of four distinct sections: the speakeasy-styled Blind Tiger bar, intimate Peacock Lounge, the Main Hall for dancing up a storm and the VIP-exclusive Wall Street lounge for high rollers.
2am
With your feet now hurting and all the signs pointing to a dirty hangover tomorrow, stumble down the road to Greaser Bar – perfect for a last-minute, and is perfect for a last-minute fried chicken burger and old-school arcade game while you await your Uber back to home base.
Since before St. Patrick drove all the snakes out of Ireland, it’s been well known that there’s no shortage of good fun to be found in Dublin.
Everyone knows about Irish pubs, and Dubliners have been strumming a fiddle over a pint for as long as anyone can remember. Centuries on, it’s still as good as ever.
Yet there’s also a new Dublin emerging, a young and fresh scene that’s keeping this ancient city moving forward.
Here’s six – of the old and the new – of the best Dublin experiences around.
New
Take the plunge
Alright we’ll admit, swimming is hardly a new activity. But braving the brisk waters of the Irish Sea has experienced a renaissance in recent years.
Forty-foot at Sandy Cove is one of the most popular spots, and while you’ll find it packed on a summer’s day, it’s even busier in the cold and wet on Christmas Day, a recent tradition that’s getting more and more popular by the year.
Phoenix Park is 1750 acres of green fields and gardens to be found only three kilometres from Dublin’s City Centre. It’s where the President of Ireland resides in the aptly nicknamed Irish White House, as well as the 500-year-old Ashtown Castle.
There’s also sporadic events, and it’s a great place for a walk and a breath of fresh air – you’ll likely see the resident fallow deer loping elegantly across fields of typically green grass.
Phoenix Park.
Water Adventures
Dublin isn’t famed for its water sports.
Yet down on the banks of the Grand Canal, you can strap yourself into a wetsuit and get stuck into a surprisingly large variety of watersports along Dublin’s grand old artery that runs from the west of the city, right through the middle into the mighty Irish Sea.
Kayaking, dragon-boating, stand-up paddle boarding and even wakeboarding are all epic adventures to be found here. Do these before you go to the pub.
River Liffey
Old
Trinity College & Hodges Figgis
You’d be hard pressed to find anywhere as grand as Trinity College – one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious universities that dates back to 1592. Stroll through the library’s extraordinary history and you’ll also find the original Guinness harp…as in THE Guinness harp.
Down the road you’ll find the Hodges Figgis bookstore, a fairly recent addition by comparison, having only come along in 1768. Grab a book and pretend you’re in a Sally Rooney novel.
Penny pinchers as young as seven got thrown into Kilmainham Gaol back in the day, proving that the constabulary took no prisoners when it came to the rule of the law. Or does that mean they took plenty of prisoners?
The Gaol housed some of the most famous political and military leaders in Irish history. There’s more of a hopeful air nowadays, and it’s become an absolute must-see for visitors to Dublin – especially now and not just because you’re allowed to leave! Find out more about some of the exhibitions held at Kilmainham here.
Kilmainhaim Gaol.
Pub and pints
If you’re doing it right, a Dublin session will start with a pint next to a warm fire, and a few tall stories, which get taller and taller as the night wears on.
Soon there’ll be Guinness being passed over heads, music playing and before long you’ll be dancing a proper jig with someone with a hard to pronounce name like Aoife or Oisin, to a catchy old tune you’ve never heard but feel you’ve heard 100 times before.
Temple Bar is the famous, tried and trusted spot, but we recommend O’Donoghues a few streets over. Of course, a bit of a pub crawl is necessary to make sure you don’t miss out on anything.
“The older the fiddle the sweeter the tune.”
Bonus:
A bit of the old and a bit of the new – no trip to Dublin is complete without stopping in at The Guinness Factory at St. James’ Gate.
It’s well known that the incredible tour is an absolutely awesome way to spend an afternoon, but what you might not know is that behind a tall, sliding gate around the corner from the factory is the Open Gate Brewery.
This is where merchants of that mystic black nectar go to experiment – in other words, it’s where the magic happens.
The wellness and wellbeing renaissance currently sweeping its way across the Emerald Isle shows no signs of slowing. And, much like the Irish diaspora spreading its tentacles around the world over the last couple of centuries, a greater connection with both mind and body in Ireland is accelerating exponentially as a favoured tourism trend.
The Irish have always had a unique way of reconnecting with the earth and their environment. They’re a proud people, with an inextricable bond to the rolling green hills and torrid Atlantic coastline of their ancient Celtic land.
From coast-to-coast there are extraordinary back-to-nature experiences to be found, all of which are experiencing a revival from local operators.
There’s a new generation of travellers to Ireland favouring gentle bird calls, breathtaking views, centuries old oak-trees and storybook cottage accommodation over phone reception and Wi-Fi connection.
THERMAL BATHING
The tradition of Roman-Irish bathing actually dates back centuries and with the benefit of time and modernisation, there are newly established luxurious takes on this popular pastime.
Galgorm Resort & Spa in Northern Ireland’s Ballymena has taken the experience of thermal bathing to another level. So much that they were awarded Global Luxury Spa Hotel of The Year in 2018.
Galgorm’s acclaimed ‘Thermal Village’ is a couple’s oasis with private log fired hot tubs, indoor heated pools, steam rooms, and saunas with varying temperatures. I even dare to brave their new snow room designed to help you cool off between sessions at a brisk minus seven degrees celsius.
All of these experiences are linked by elevated timber boardwalks which lead to the heated River House centrepiece in the village which is perched gracefully over the town’s River Maine.
IN THE WEEDS
To take this experience to another level, it needs to be done as was 300-years ago.
On the beleaguered County Sligo coastline of Ireland’s famed Wild Atlantic Way is VOYA Seaweed Baths in Strandhill.
Once considered a surefire treatment to rid the pain associated with arthritis or rheumatism back in the 18th century, ancient seaweed bathing has reached new mainstream heights to help treat skin disorders like eczema and circulatory complaints.
The iodine rich plants, farmed from the ocean just outside the bathhouse itself are believed to help leach toxins from your body and improve the function of your hypothalamus as you bathe.
Where living life in a bubble usually has the connotation of being sheltered and disconnected from the outside world, at Finn Lough Luxury Resort in County Fermanagh, intricately designed Forest Bubble Domes allow you to be more connected to the outside than you’ve ever been before.
This is not camping or glamping. Each of the Forest Domes – complete with telescopes and constellation charts – are individually set on private allotments right on the water’s edge of the stunning Lough Erne. So private they are, they’re only accessible by a privately chauffeured golf cart from reception.
But the magic of Finn Lough doesn’t stop with their special dome accommodation. The resort’s Elements Trail is a magical solo stroll in a bathrobe through a wooded forest – best taken at dusk to the sound of bird calls – around five scandinavian-inspired huts. Each hut is specially designed for a sensory altering 20 minutes of bliss and are tantalisingly linked by very little light — just the faint orange glow through heavy glass doors.
Start in their epsom salts Float Shed, before this choose-your-own-adventure spa experience has you blissfully meandering between a lakeside sauna, an aromatherapy room, a private hot tub and a relaxation den.
IRELAND’S 19TH HOLE
The Irish love the end of a big golfing day as much as they love playing the sport itself. Whether it’s beenEagles or Bogies, the “19th Hole” is a time honoured tradition in Ireland of relaxing in a great pub or clubhouse after a magic 18 holes with your mates.
Whether you’re at Royal Portrush, Ballyliffin or Enniscrone Golf Club (some of the greatest courses in the world) the Guinness tastes the same and it’s during this post game tradition where plans are made and myths of physical prowess are born.
At the famous Galgorm Castle Golf Club, the favourite has to be the 16th hole which dog legs sharply over a fierce water trap. Like the rest of the course, the fairway is like a painting, flanked by huge oak trees, rolling green hills, hairy Irish cows and Galgorm’s Castle turrets off in the distance.
Saunter up to Galgorm’s refurbished clubhouse at the end of your round and whatever the weather, you’re sure to finish your time at the 19th hole warm – be it from the fire, the ales or from that traditional Irish welcome, much akin to a warm hug.
From the thriving cosmopolitan corners of Belfast, to historic Derry-Londonderry and the extraordinary landscapes in between and surrounding, Northern Ireland is an extraordinary place with an undeniable spirit.
The cities punch well above their weight from both a historic and cultural perspective and like a delicious cocktail, County Antrim and the wider region is the perfect sum of all its parts. The best part? Proximity and the short driving distances mean that tourists can taste just about everything during a short visit.
There are epic road trips right along the Causeway Coastal Route, some of the best golfing opportunities on the planet, the chance to sit in cosy old pubs once frequented by literary greats of the 19th century and Michelin star restaurants in the heart of a thriving metropolis.
Belfast: A Titanic City
Titanica, at Titanic Belfast.
With its Victorian-era charm melded with a modern, young and creative population, the city of Belfast is the perfect launching point for a visit to the region. There are four Michelin star restaurants within the city and the new Santeria is a brand new whiskey-cum-cocktail bar on Fountain Street attracting some of the hippest cats in town.
And whilst it might seem macabre at first, you must steal yourself to listen and absorb the heartbreaking tales of passengers aboard the Titanic that departed the city in 1912. You can’t come to the city without visiting Titanic Belfast, this interactive museum is the perfect ode to the ill-fated Ship of Dreams
Walk on Water
The Gobbins Cliff Walk is your next step along the coast and it’s a true journey through time. Clinging like steel matchsticks to the basalt cliffs of the Islandmagee peninsula for over one hundred years, you can walk your way across the series of bridges and stairways which etched into the rock. Almost instantly you’ll understand the inextricable connection that the Irish have to the wild Atlantic ocean. Close your eyes and remember to breathe in the sea mist.
Legend has it that the famous Robert the Bruce actually took refuge on Northern Ireland’s only offshore inhabited island, Rathlin, following repeated defeats of his army from the English. It was here that the story of Robert and the Spider was born. It is said that the famed King of Scots had been hiding in a cave on the island when he noticed a small spider attempting to weave a web. The spider tried and failed over and over. Finally, it managed to spin a web and he saw himself reflected in the triumph. With a current population of around 140 people, Rathlin is also home to seals, hares, puffins and razorbills.
Day Out with the Derry Girls
Derry-Londonderry has well and truly worked its way into the modern cultural zeitgeist with the award-winning show Derry Girls. Enjoy an afternoon strolling the streets with a guide to explore different filming locations from the first two seasons, trivia, anecdotes and more. Derry girls is set in the city in the early to mid-90s, well after the historic 17th century walls that surround the city were built, which ensure you are – literally – surrounded by history everywhere you go.
Derry City.
Whiskey with a view
Ireland’s oldest working distillery sits along the coastal route and for anyone that reads get lost travel magazinefrequently will know we’re purveyors of a good whiskey. The Old Bushmills Distillery has been in operation since 1608 (that’s really old!) and the company’s distinctive single malt whiskey is still produced here today. If you’re not keen on a regular tour of the historica copper pot stills, why not try a full afternoon of whiskey tasting instead?
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