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My husband and I are virgins.
Oh, we’ve talked about it heaps, but never actually done it.
Now here I am, faced with ‘The Beast’, wondering what exactly I’ve got myself into.
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Long, lonely roads winding through the ethereal landscape of southwest Utah help us bond with ‘The Beast’—our DriveNow RV. And like the Mojave Desert tortoise we spot at our first stop, with our home on our backs for the next eight days, our mantra is to take things slowly.
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“We don’t see many of these,” says Chad, our cycling guide, as we pull our bikes off track. Unfazed, the prehistoric creature lumbers past, scaly legs kicking up puffs of desert dust in its wake. “They’re endangered.”
Cycling with a local guide in Snow Canyon State Park is a mellow intro to a state where small treasures can be overshadowed by the famed ‘Mighty 5 National Parks’. Tucked into folds of soaring rainbow-coloured cliffs chiselled over millions of years by wind and water, the canyon is like a gallery of precious art.
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We follow Chad along trails dotted with wildflowers; through a narrow slot canyon; and clamber over swirls of polished slickrock to the top where the fading sun rays are turning the rock fire red. “When I’m standing up here, it makes me think no matter what’s happening in the world, there’s hope,” says Chad, spreading his arms towards the horizon.
As each day unfolds, we embrace the grandeur of our surroundings. I ride a mule named Porky to the floor of Bryce Canyon; act out movie scenes in Monument Valley; and dance like no-one is watching on top of Muley Point.
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In Zion National Park, I pretend to be disappointed that Angels Landing, the hairiest of all hikes in Utah, is temporarily off limits. To make up for it, we hike the short, steep Canyon Overlook trail, tramping over bridges and along precarious ledges with gobsmacking views, before a leisurely bike ride on the Pa’rus trail that snakes alongside the Virgin River. With record spring snowfalls, the lifeblood of southwest Utah is running high, and I find myself pedalling to the rhythm of the river.
Another day we hike through a canyon where the terrain changes faster than a chameleon. Following the Calf Creek Falls trail in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument through 12 micro-climates, from arid rocky overhangs to lush wetland forest, we’re rewarded with a 40-metre drop of frigid water cascading over tiger-striped sandstone cliffs.
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The geological richness of Utah is balanced by its Indigenous cultures.“Hozho is an important word in our language,” says Louis Williams, a proud member of the Diné tribe of the Deer Springs clan. “It’s the equilibrium, the connectiveness between nature, and our mental, physical and spiritual state.”
We’re walking beside Louis in Bears Ears National Monument. As owner and operator of Ancient Wayves River and Hiking Adventures, he shares his passion for his ancestral land with people from all over the world. “I haven’t met many Aussies though,” he says with a smile as wide as the canyon we’re standing in.
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Traversing a dry creek wash trail in Cedar Mesa, Louis describes the significance of the desert flora surrounding us. “We make rope from the leaves of the yucca plant and shampoo from the roots. Juniper needles keep negative energy out of our homes, and we weave baskets from sumac.”
As the sun starts to cast shadows across the canyon, Louis quickens the pace to reach the ‘surprise’ he wants to share with us. “This is a granary where my ancestors stored food,” he explains.
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Hidden beneath a massive sandstone rock, the ruins of this architectural masterpiece—built between 700 and 2,500 years ago and known as ‘the house on fire’ for the way the light catches the rock at certain times of day—is perfectly intact.
As we peek through its windows, I try to visualise Indigenous Puebloan life. “Squash, corn and beans were their staple crops,” Louis says. “They put food in pottery urns, lit a small fire inside the rooms and sealed up the windows. Once the fire sucked out all the oxygen, it went out and the food was preserved.”
A pictograph of a hand and sherds of broken pottery scattered in the sand adds to the profoundness of the site.
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After action-packed days, nights bring another dimension entirely. Setting up camp for us RV newbies is remarkably simple. Hook up the hose for fresh water here, connect the power cable there, and we’re all good.
Van life is very much the way of life in Utah. RV parks are friendly laid-back places to do as much or as little as you like. Sometimes we cook dinner, other nights we take the recommendation of locals and head to a restaurant or diner.
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“Don’t miss Patio Diner in Blanding,” says everyone we seem to meet. This family-run hole-in-the-wall is straight out of an episode of Happy Days. And what’s even better is their burgers live up to the hype as ‘the best in the southwest.’
However, cooking dinner at Yonder in Escalante is the RV roadie highlight. We pick up a DIY food pack from the onsite shop and sit around the campfire cooking chicken and veggies. We eat too many ‘smores and sip on a fine US chardonnay beneath a big sky crammed with stars.
Eight days, 1,700 kms, and untold adventures in ‘The Beast’ now turned ‘Bestie’. With the RV cherry popped, I’m only left wondering, what took us so long.
Writer was hosted by DriveNow Rentals and Utah Tourism Office.
CHASING CHEETAHS
A six-tonne elephant is slinging mud at the back of my head.
Not even mud, per se. It’s fresh sludge, straight from the wallowing pool. At first I was like, “beat it, Dumbo” but now it feels like a blessing of sorts—who needs holy water when you’ve been baptised by an African elephant?
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From the seat of our safari truck, we’re watching a 30-strong herd take their twilight bath. Huge males with tusks the size of bull bars lumber past as females spray water on the backs of clumsy calves. Two women (and one man) in my truck are crying with—what I hope is—joy.
Gavin, a certified safari veteran and our G Adventures guide, leans over to tell me he’s never seen anything like this before. And he’s been guiding for decades.
But that’s the beauty of safari. You never know what’s around the next Marula tree. It’s why Gavin has got us whispering “thank you bush” every time an animal (Big or Ugly, doesn’t matter) comes into view. “Thank you bush” is an offering of gratitude to the South African game reserve gods, and a reminder to check your safari expectations at the park entrance.
Just because you want to see a lion doesn’t mean the wild is going to offer one up, and no one—I mean, no one—is about to lure a leopard out of a tree just so you can get the perfect IG shot.
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That said, you can still hope. This is my third South African safari and while I’ve seen a pack of lions take down a giraffe, I’ve never actually spied a cheetah. So you could say I’m energetically chasing some spots this trip.
I’m at Karongwe Private Game Reserve as part of a 7 day National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures tour through South Africa. Karongwe is a private 10,000 hectare parcel north of Kruger National Park, and while Kruger is epic, Karongwe is like stepping into an Attenborough documentary. You’ve got disco donkeys doing the zebra crossing, monkeys with (literal) blue balls, giraffes silhouetted against African sunsets, hyenas sneaking out of dens, baboons eating bird eggs, prancing impala and hakuna matata-ing warthogs. I’ve got a sore neck from all the seat swivelling.
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Driving the safari truck is our Afrikaans ranger, Jurie. There are many reasons to love Jurie, but topping the list is: his unending, infectious enthusiasm for wildlife; his choice to support conservation rather than smuggling (despite a close family member once dealing in the contraband trade); and the fact that his spirit animal is a warthog.
“I just love them… I guess because I’m also resilient and sometimes a little stubborn,” he laughs, showing me his warthog tattoo. “Oh, and really energetic.”
Jurie and his tracker partner, Freddie, are the dream safari duo. From his perch at the front of the truck, Freddie uses his exceptional skills (honed over a tracking career spanning almost two decades) to spot rare birds in flight, civet scat and drying rhino tracks.
“We’re not lazy, we’re clever,” Jurie explains to me one day while we’re off-road, bush bashing through river reeds in search of three lionesses and their cubs. “Some people like to chase their radios, but Freddie and I look for things ourselves.”
And it’s true. Freddie is so good at reading tracks that he can tell how recently an animal has moved through the area, the pace of their grazing and what direction they’re headed. It’s beyond impressive. While I still need road signs to get me to the airport freeway, Freddie gets us up close to a snoozing Mufasa—no directions necessary.
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And yet it’s been three days in Karongwe, with a phenomenal tracker, and still no sign of cheetahs. I’m beginning to think I’m either cursed or perhaps there just aren’t any cheetahs on the reserve. Kulani, an expert from Endangered Wildlife Trust who partners specially with G Adventures National Geographic Journeys (this expert insight is a definite perk of the trip!), is quick to assure me otherwise.
Kulani is working on the Cheetah Range Expansion Project, a collaborative effort between 60+ southern African reserves that involves routinely relocating cheetahs to avoid inbreeding. It’s very important, god-like stuff. But why do cheetahs need humans to physically move them around southern Africa? Good question, with a not-so-good answer—cheetahs are the most endangered big cat on the continent.
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Kulani is a cheetah aficionado and conservation expert. He’s also super passionate about sharing his knowledge with people, especially the kids he takes on field trips to Kruger. “I have always loved leopards the most, but I learned quickly that I need to let children fall in love with whatever wildlife they want,” he tells me.
“There was one girl, and she fell in love with a tiny bird… and that’s perfect because the whole objective of these trips is for kids to fall in love with the landscape and conservation and protecting animals. Because then no matter what you do when you grow up, you’ll never lose that love.”
Kulani is joining us on our evening game drive, and that feels like a promising omen. Surely a big cat expert is the good luck cheetah charm we need. Two hours later, the sun has set and so too have my hopes. It has drizzled incessantly, pushing the animals to take shelter in the scrub. We hardly see an impala, let alone a cheetah. I resentfully thank the bush, my safari expectations running rampant.
Speaking of running rampant, we wake the next morning to a ropeable bull elephant (named Flippy) tearing through the lodge, unearthing trees and bulldozing garden beds. Flippy’s in a seriously vexed mood—maybe he also hasn’t seen any cheetahs.
On our final morning drive, Jurie receives a radio call to say there’s been a lion spotting. We hustle into the truck as the sun starts to rise, dewy spider webs glistening. The air is crisp enough to warrant a beanie and blanket. Everyone is silent as Jurie sends us charging down narrow dirt tracks.
It’s a perfect morning. The reserve is just waking up, birds are singing to each other, giraffes are stretching their necks for a morning feed. We come to a fork in the road when Freddie holds up his hand, signalling Jurie to stop. He’s seen something.
He motions for Jurie to take the right-side path, slowly. We inch forward on silent wheels. Our collective eyes scaning the bush for orange lion manes. And that’s when I see them—spots.
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Right beside our truck, three male cheetahs are stalking through the scrub. Lithe and focussed, they don’t acknowledge the truck as they pursue a lone wildebeest.
Just when I think they’re going to go for the kill, they veer off and move away; choosing to lay down in a patch of sunshine rather than toy with their prey. The wildebeest prances down the path, oblivious to his near-death. We watch as the cheetahs soak up the sun, like domestic cats on a warm windowsill. Their spotted coats are glistening and their huge paws kick up red dust; they’re magnificent.
All I can do is whisper “thank you bush”.
get lost was hosted by G Adventures on one of their National Geographic Journeys.
Good Craic, Characters & Coastlines
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH Tourism Ireland
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She’s a beauty, to be sure. But this island is more than just a pretty face and a set of rolling hills. A trip to Ireland can be heart-filling, soul-warming and full of ‘good craic’ if you do it right. To help ya have the grandest time, we’ve handpicked nine of our favourite adventures:
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‘Craic’ is an almost indefinable part of the Irish spirit. It’s good natured fun; it’s the local gossip in town; it’s the quintessential Irish sense of humour. Best served with other people, whether down the local pub or at an ancient festival. Basically, good craic is a good time.
Take everything you know about Halloween (ie. bags of candy and trick or treating) and forget it.
Because Ireland’s ancient pagan celebration of Samhain, in particular its Púca Festival, is where it’s at. Púca is all about welcoming some of the more strange, wonderful, very mischievous creatures that come into the world during the Celtic New Year. How do these creatures get into the world? Through the chasms of space and time at places like the Hill of Ward. Ceremonial, celebratory craic. Highly recommend.
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Whether you’re an equestrian expert or just a regular horse enthusiast, galloping your way along Ireland’s west coast is an adventure and a half.
The lovely folk at Island View Riding Stables will take you out for a day (or days, plural) on one of their very noble, and very friendly, steeds. Walk through water, trot along hilltops, take in the epic Wild Atlantic Way. You’ll be gifted lungs full of fresh Irish air, and a whole lot of funny Irish banter from your local tour guides. Craic at a canter. Lol.
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Know what really enlivens the spirit? A seriously cold plunge in the seriously cold Irish Sea. It’s a seriously good time.
People have been swimming this spot at Dublin Bay for over 250 years now, sharing the waters with herons and cormorants and the occasional seal. It’s an all-season, all-weather activity, and a time-honoured Christmas day tradition for locals. So go on, join ‘em for a cold swim and a shot of endorphins. Don’t chicken out, or they’ll think you’re no craic at all.
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Cead Míle Fáilte is Gaelic for “a hundred thousands welcomes”—and if that doesn’t sum up the warmth of this place, we don’t know what does. A trip to the Emerald Isle isn’t complete without a heartwarming convo or three with some bona fide locals. If you’re up for a chat, here’s how to find it:
Now, this is not your average tipple trail. A night out is only as good as the people you’re with; fortunately there’s plenty to work with in this regard in Dublin.
Roaring fires, Guinness, trad music and most importantly, a series of tall tales which get taller and taller as the night wears on. We recommend the a literary pub crawl celebrating Ireland’s star-studded line up of writers, from Wilde to Rooney. It’s street theatre meets drinking meets learning.
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Yeah, you read that right. Grace Neill’s is a 410-year-old pub in Donaghadee, County Down that’s home to a few ghostly inhabitants.
Apparently the supernatural presence is so strong here that the pub’s been visited by quite a few paranormal TV crews and ghost hunters. Which means it must be legit. These ghosts aren’t just your regular ghosts either—they’re smuggler and pirate and sailor ghosts who have all frequented this Northern Irish gem from time to time. Don’t expect eerie vibes though, this is still very much your cosy Irish pub with trad music and tasty grub. Find out about them over a yarn with some locals.
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Music is a big deal in Ireland, especially their traditional music. And Malachy Kearns (or Malachy Bodhrán as the locals call him) is a big deal in traditional drumming.
Malachy has been hand making all the bodhráin for Riverdance for nearly three decades, and if you fancy yourself a drummer (or a craftsperson) you can join him for a lesson in making one of Ireland’s oldest instruments. You can even paint your family crest/football team on if you’re feeling particularly patriotic.
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Ireland is an island, remember. Which means it’s home to a shit-tonne of drivable/swimmable/Instagrammable coastline – over 1,450 kilometres of coast, in fact. Whether you’re a road tripper, ocean swimmer or Instagrammer, there’s a little something seaside to suit all travellers:
Ireland has got UNESCO World Heritage sites coming out of its … isle. Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland is one of these. It’s home to otherworldly, hexagon-shaped rocks, thanks to a volcanic eruption back in the day. Very cool.
Local legend reckons a giant, named Finn MacCool, built the causeway when he wanted to cross the channel to battle another giant. Mucho MacCool. We recommend jumping in the car and driving the full 313 kilometres of pristine coastline, stopping by beaches, small seaside villages, local pubs and, of course, Game of Thrones locations.
Click and DO IT FOR A GOOD CAUSE
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Yep, this super dramatic, isolated island off the coast of the Ring of Kerry was one of the epic locations in both Star Wars: A Force Awakens and Star Wars: The Last Jedi.
Not into pop culture? All good, you don’t need the force to appreciate the beauty of this extraordinary place. Go hiking, check out an ancient monastery or peep a nest of puffins (they’re birds, FYI). But you gotta book those boat tickets ahead of time, as only a handful of people are permitted to visit the island everyday. It’s a blessing (no crowds) and a curse (if you’re not an organised traveller).
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More into trekking? We (and Ireland) have got your back. Our choice of ocean-side amble is the splendiforous Dingle Way, a trail that follows the entire 180 kilometre Dingle Peninsula Coast from Dingle Town to Tralee.
Honestly, the scenery is just epic—from swathes of sand to the Slieve Mish Mountains. The full trek will take you roughly a week to conquer. BYO boots and a little flask of whisky to really complement the Irish vistas.
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Hot 5 Surf Meccas
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Sometimes all it takes is the discovery of one fun/weird/unique thing to birth the next travel destination.
Take Laos’ Vang Vieng, for example. All Vang Vieng needed was one tube on the river and nek minute Lonely Planet was including the village in its latest guidebook.
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Surfing has had a similar effect on the world. It’s been surfers—historically willing to travel to far flung places in search of a good wave—who have discovered some of the best travel spots the globe has to offer (ahem, Bali). Travel spots that have grown to be so much more than just surfing meccas (cough, Bali, cough). These are our five favourite surf discoveries (that aren’t Bali):
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MEXICO
Could this be the chillest beach town in all of Mexico? Highly likely.
Puerto Escondido started drawing a travel crowd thanks to its excellent breaks in both Zicatela and La Punta, but PE is so much more than just its waves. You’ve got the delicious Oaxacan food, those insane sunsets, and more than a few beachfront dance parties. The coast is also very swim-friendly, so you don’t need any prowess on a surfboard to get the most out of these crystal waters. Best part? You’ll never encounter a Spring Breaker here. They’re all in Cancun, mixing their tequila with orange juice.
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SOUTH AFRICA
J-Bay (as us cool, very hip, pseudo-locals like to call it) was ‘discovered’ by pioneering South African surfer, John Whitmore, in 1959.
But Supertubes, as the break was later named, wasn’t actually ridden until 1964. Since then, the world famous surf spot, has grown to be one of South Africa’s favourite holiday destinations (even for non-surfers). J-Bay’s primo location means travellers can visit game parks, go sandboarding, do the world’s highest bungy, enjoy a bit of dolphin spotting or just relax by the seaside. Lekker.
Click and YOU’LL SOUTH A-FREAK-A OUT
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PHILIPPINES
Betcha didn’t know Siargao, the teardrop-shaped island in the Philippines, is actually the country’s surfing capital, did ya? Now you do.
Let’s take a moment to thank the fine surfing men and women who brought Siargao to our travel attention… and then move the heck onto all the other things you can do here. Like, island hopping, cave exploring, jellyfish swimming, rock pool hunting, hammock lazing, sunset watching, waterfall chasing and motorbike riding. From epic resorts to pristine beaches, Siargao really is paradise central.
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SRI LANKA
Arugam Bay is the only place in Sri Lanka that hosts an international surf comp. Why? Because it’s got epic waves. Obviously.
But you know what else it has? The friendliest locals to ever welcome you into a game of cricket. The town of Arugam Bay offers everything from backpacker parties to beautiful resorts, blindingly white temples and some of Sri Lanka’s best street foods. Sure, the waves are worth the trip, but everything else is just as good here.
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EL SALVADOR
Both El Tunco and El Zonte in El Salvador’s La Libertad have long drawn a surfing crowd. With gorgeous black sand beaches and world-class breaks, it makes sense that this part of the world was heralded by the surf community.
But non-surfers don’t fear—you’ve got lush rainforest to explore, sea caves to discover and warm waters to swim. There’s also lakes and lagoons, volcanoes and Mayan ruins in the greater El Salvador expanse. Central American heaven (or cielo, as they’d say).
Remember the Chilli Queens
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…is ringing out across the nation, laying the foundation for the soon-to-come Mexican-American War and battle for Texas. San Antonio, then a relatively small outpost, begins to rebuild after a brutal battle and the hard work is fuelled by… chilli.
We’ve all fallen in love before and, at some point, have probably fallen in love with a bowl of chilli. Spicy, rich and hearty, chilli comes in many varieties and tops some of the most primo of foods. Quick way to level-up a hot dog? Add chilli.
It doesn’t matter whether you take it with beans, cheese or breadcrumbs, chilli is enjoyed by people all over the world. Well, except for iconic food traveller Anthony Bourdain, for whom it was reminiscent of “a warm bag of crap”. But don’t listen to him on this one—even legends make mistakes occasionally.
In Southern United States, it’s a distinct kind of street food that’s made all the more amazing when you know the history of San Antonio’s chilli godmothers.
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A band of women boldly named the ‘Chilli Queens’ once made their way to Alamo and set up shop in its open air market. While mostly Mexican, there were some African American and First Nations women in their band, and together they served up their grandmothers’ secret chilli.
Dressed in colourful dresses, singing songs, and usually accompanied by roving musicians, they would fill the square with song and spice, offering their homemade chilli to a hungry city.
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For decades, this band of Queens served their chilli daily from the market, providing a cheap and hearty meal not just to the people of San Antonio, but to travellers who caught wind. Tales of the Chilli Queens were featured in newspaper articles and travel guides, they were mentioned in several novels, including O. Henry’s The Gift of the Magi and Katherine Anne Porter’s Pale Horse, Pale Rider, and soon chilli was spreading across the nation, becoming a popular fixture on menus coast to coast.
Sadly, resentment and racism towards Mexican culture forced the Chilli Queens out of business. The city government predominantly to blame after they passed an 1918 ordinance that banned street vendors from selling food. However, the Chilli Queens’ legacy lives on as a San Antonio street staple, slightly reinvented. Enter the Frito Pie.
At some point someone started serving chilli in a chip packet, giving birth to the Frito Pie—a charmingly lowbrow culinary combination that sees corn chips paired with their natural chilli allies. Like yin and yang or Simon & Garfunkel—they’re naturally better together.
No one seems quite sure where this originated. Some say it was a man on his lunch break at a convenience store while others reckon it was the Doolin family (inventors of the Fritos corn chips brand). There’s even talk of the Frito pie originating in the 1960s thanks to a woman named Teresa Hernandez who worked at the Woolworths lunch counter.
What we can all agree on, however, is that this is a distinctly southern American culinary invention, and a San Antonian street snack for the ages.
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THE ORIGINAL RUDY’S COUNTRY STORE AND BAR-B-Q
A beloved, if basic, BBQ joint with multiple locations across San Antonio.
CHUNKY’S BURGERS
As well as offering a delicious Frito Pie topped with chilli and cheese, you can also get the 4 Horsemen burger here, famously dubbed the ‘Hottest Burger on the Planet’ by Man vs Food.
SAM’S BURGER JOINT
A classic burger joint where you can catch a band while you munch on your chilli.
ANY SAN ANTONIO FOOD TRUCK
This is where the purists will tell you to go, find them at any sports stadiums or fairs around the city.
A GUIDE TO BOOZE ETIQUETTE
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It’s also one of the greatest joys of travel. As Anthony Bourdain once said “unlicensed hooch from a stranger in a parking lot. Good idea? Yes, of course it is.” And we wholeheartedly agree with him.
From exploring a foreign city’s after hours scene to taking a shot with a bartender and pub-crawling with locals, good alcohol can be the perfect entry point to making new mates and understanding a destination. But to be a truly decent drinking mate, you’ve got to be aware of the local customs. Here’s some of the world’s more wild / weird drinking traditions to commit to memory:
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NEVER SERVE YOURSELF, YOU SILLY GOOSE
It’s no secret that the Japanese love a tipple or three. If you’ve never woken up on a Tokyo street after izakaya-hopping with several highfalutin salarymen, have you really lived? Question for the ages. But as with everything in Japan, there are customs to rigorously follow, even while knocking one back. The first few drinks of the night, whether they’re beer or sake, are always communally shared. Adorable. So kawaii. The other thing to remember is to never serve yourself, you absolute heathen. It’s polite to let one of your mates serve you, and then you respond in kind.
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SAVE ALL HORSE MILK LEFTOVERS, NOTHING GOES TO WASTE
Admittedly we don’t know a heap about Central Asia’s Kazakhstan. We know there is insanely good skiing and Borat really did a number on it back in 2006 (whether that boosted or hindered the national tourism is still tbc). We also know that locals here love a bit of fermented horse milk, AKA kumis. The thing with kumis is that none of it should ever, ever be wasted. Sacrilege. So if you’re having a pint, make sure you pour any leftovers back into the communal kumis jug. Waste not, want not. Horse milk 4eva.
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RAISE A GLASS… THEN BANG IT ON THE TABLE
A night of drinking in Beijing or Shanghai is also a night of toasting (and not the kind with butter and vegemite). The Chinese love to honour their drinking mates, and their preferred way is to raise a glass. Or several.
If you’re being toasted, make sure you toast the host right back. You also can’t forget the clink, because, respect. If there are a few toasts happening, go ahead and bang your glass on the table. The louder, the better. Drinking is a celebration here! Tell your friends you love them! Fill your elders’ glasses to the brim!
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DO THE DIP AND FLICK!
There’s a downright ceremony to drinking vodka in Mongolia, and we love to see it. If you’re travelling the land of a thousand gers and find yourself offered a glass (or bowl) of vodka, the custom-appropriate thing to do is dip a finger in and then flick it once towards the sky, once towards the earth and a little dab on your forehead. Why? You’re honouring the local spirits, duh. If it’s too early in the day for vodka, just put your finger to your forehead, say thank you and hand it back. No harm, no foul, no vodka.
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NEVER RAISE A TOAST WITH A BEER
So back in 1849 the Austrian Hapsburgs quashed the Hungarian Revolution and executed a bunch of Hungarian generals and then toasted those deaths with beer. Years of reprisals against all participants followed, which was a real scumbag move and never to be forgotten by the Hungarians, who to this day refuse to raise a toast with beer. For anyone!
So if you find yourself at a bar in Budapest, and you know a speech is incoming, maybe grab a pálinka if you want to stay a culturally decent drinking mate.
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IN FOR ONE ROUND, IN FOR THEM ALL
Australians are many things—suspiciously relaxed around spiders, very good at sports—but they’re also exceptionally fair. So if you’re at the pub and you enter a round, hooley dooley you better hold up your end of the beer bargain or so help you god.
A round is basically when you take it in turns to buy a group of people drinks. There’s no size determination for a round, you could go round-for-round with just one person or 10 people (if your bank account is big enough).
The trip that had the biggest impact on me
We asked some of our contributors a pretty simple question:
Which trip which has had the biggest impact on you?
The answers were varied to say the least:
TAYLA GENTLE
Editor
INSTA: @taylaroxene
My first time overseas is definitely up there for impact. I moved to Guatemala when I was 19 (sorry mum!) and it was there that I learnt very serious things—like the extent of my own privilege; and other less serious but still important travel things—like how to sleep on a chicken bus, how not to drink tequila, the difference between a good tortilla and a perfect tortilla, and the beauty of a shared Caribbean sunrise.
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TIM McGLONE
Deputy Editor
INSTA: @mcglone.jpg
I was once sent on a trip to cover a newly opened hot spring experience in Victoria’s east. My partner couldn’t come so I hoofed it solo. The springs were beautiful—you can read about them in issue seven of get lost—but the biggest impact came courtesy of the people in the tented-pod next to me, who had the absolute NIGHT OF THEIR LIVES. I mean ooft, they were really going at it. And this impacted my view of this specific kind of travel: never go glamping in a romantic location by yourself, or bring noise-cancelling headphones if you do.
LAURA WATERS
Contributor
INSTA: @laurawaters_writer
It was always going to be an adventure, but I had no idea when I set out to hike New Zealand’s Te Araroa Trail that it would end up changing my life. Those 3,000km of gnarly but utterly spectacular trail—across mountains, forests, rivers and beach—taught me I was capable of far more than I realised. I came home, quit my corporate job, and chased a long-held dream of being a writer and author.
BEN McNAMARA
Contributor
INSTA: @thisisbenemac
“Don’t sit behind the driver. If he gets shots, it will go through you. It’s best to sit in the middle seat”. I used to dream of working in a war-zone and a few years back, that dream turned into an adrenaline-fuelled, very surreal reality in Kabul. We’d drive past military posts and roads full of shelled pot-holes. American helicopters could be heard overhead moving diplomats from temporary homes to embassies. I’m from the Melbourne suburbs…everything about Kabul was strange. The personal adventure was brilliant, but the brutality of existence in an unfair place like Afghanistan was not.
ROBERTO SERRINI
Our Man on the Ground
INSTA: @serrini
My time in the off-grid village of Anuk Lang in Cambodia was life changing. Coming from NYC where everything is available 24/7 to then experiencing what life is like without signal, without noise, without exterior influence—just bathing in community and family—gave me a unique perspective on life. Now no matter where I go, no matter how exotic or extravagant, I remember my time there, and try to always find that truth in the experience at hand.
Win a Lonely Planet: Best in Travel 2024
Best in Travel 2024 is Lonely Planet’s 19th publication of the travel icon’s annual collection, featuring 50 must-visit destinations around the globe, celebrating its 50th Anniversary.
To celebrate the release, get lost are giving away a copy of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2024.
To win a copy, simply tell us in 100 words or less where you’d like to travel to in 2024.
Submit your entries via email to info@getlostmagazine.com – or DM us on Instagram.
The book is broken down into top 10 countries, cities and regions, plus the best value and most sustainable destinations from around the world. It’s 222 pages of epic travel inspiration and coffee table chic.
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Mongolia was ranked as the number #1 destination to travel to in 2024, while Australia’s own Kangaroo Island was seen as the #2 region, a tremendous effort as they continue to bounce back from devastating bushfires of 2019/20.
Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2024 list is essential gift-giving for the traveller in your life. Available at $27.99 RRP from all bookstores around Australia, as well as online.
What I was wearing in…
Our editorial team takes a look, for better or worse, at the outfits they wore in their travels. Even if only for the briefest of moment of time, each of these outfits were at some point kind of cool…either that or they weren’t.
Tim McGlone – Deputy Editor
Year
2019
Location
Ghalat, Iran
Activity
Gazing aimlessly
Context
Taken during several days of trekking and arguably the most eclectic combination of apparel anyone worn in the Ghalat Mountains.
Pants
Cheap Juventus FC knock-off tracksuit ($2)
We were only at the base of these mountains but it was still pretty high, and therefore cold, and I didn’t have any pants that weren’t jeans, which aren’t great for hiking. Enter these cheap rip offs I found at a market prior to the hike, which didn’t even make it the whole trek before they ripped. RIP. Forza Juve.
Jacket
Yellow Raincoat ($50)
Whenever I feel like chanelling Paddington Bear, or if it’s seriously wet, I chuck-on this heavy-duty operator purchased in an op-shop in Melbourne.
Umbrella
(unknown)
It doesn’t look that wet so I assume this was purely for the aesthetic. Nothing goes with a big yellow raincoat like a rainbow umbrella. A genuine mystery where it came from, or where it went.
Backpack
(FREE)
Stolen from my ex-girlfriend, this backpack continued to be worth the money she paid for it, until she asked for it back.
Tayla Gentle – Editor
Year
2016
Location
Mega Supermarket, Alaska
Activity
Perusing the gun section
Context
I was on a shoot for Kathmandu (the outdoor gear company) and they were unimpressed with the wardrobe changes I made.
Hat
Beaver (price unknown)
When in Alaska, wear what the Alaskans wear… and apparently that’s a trapper’s hat made of beaver fur. Inclusive of the tail, obviously.
Jacket
Kathmandu ($200)
Waterproof, windproof and probably made of GoreTex or something similarly fancy. I don’t remember ever being cold or wet so the jacket did its job.
Glasses
Yangon Street Market, Myanmar ($45)
For several years in the 2010s I bought all my prescription eyewear from one market stall in Yangon. Weird, I know. At the start of the trip I’d do my shopping, then I’d go travelling and on my return to the city they’d be waiting for me. Specsavers, who? This particular pair were yellow and blue and I LOVED them.
Purse
Cambodia ($5)
If you have never owned an embroidered coin purse that fits your lip balm, passport and phone—have you ever really travelled as a woman? This one was pink and blue, and so pretty I still own it today.
JUSTIN JAMIESON – PUBLISHER
YEAR
1994
LOCATION
Koh Phangan
ACTIVITY
Motorcycling
CONTEXT
Straight out of Uni and looking for The Beach before it was even written
SHORTS
Blazer (free – worked there through Uni)
Potentially the most uncool shorts ever worn on a Thai island.
SINGLET/MUSCLE TOP
Mambo ($50)
Still not sure why I thought my chicken arms warranted this type of clothing. It did mean I avoided a t-shirt tan as all my arms were burnt to a crisp after that day.
SANDALS
Nike ($120)
Not the ideal motorcycle footwear and to be honest up there with the shorts as probably the least cool sandals to be worn by a backpacker in Thailand. I loved them though. They fit like a glove… for my feet.
SUNGLASSES
Oakley (expensive)
A splurge purchase after a lucky run at the temporary casino in Melbourne’s old customs building (anyone remember that). I thought I was cool avoiding the Blades worn by most bogan cricketers however they really do fit well with the sandals and shorts as far as coolness goes.
North of the North Island Road Trip
The South Island of New Zealand is one of the world’s premiere and most popular road trip destinations. A star in its own right and criminally underrated is its northern sibling; the North Island, just like Luke Hemsworth, Danni Minogue and Phillip Matera.
To show you how good this area of the world is, we’ve compiled a bit of a road trip for you to hit this summer that takes in places in the north of the north island – forgoing half of the island. These are only places from the centre of the island and up, starting from Lake Taupo.
Waikato to Rotorua
1. LEGENDS OF THE PEAK
If ever there was a country made for an off-road running festival, it’s New Zealand. This one is the ultimate. Legends of the Peak is set amongst the tallest trees in the world – redwoods – in the extraordinary Whakarewarewa Forest, and involves four different events, suited for both elite competitors and mad chillers. At the end of the event, there’s a proper festival – sip on a well-earned beverage, cop some live music, see your friends and whānau cross the line after an epic adventure.
November 10 – 11
BECOME A LEGEND
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From Rotorua to Taupō
2. Craters of the Moon
Most countries around the world have one or two impressive natural resources that wow travellers, whereas New Zealand has about 50. One of these is the geothermal walkway at Craters of the Moon, a cratered valley of other-worldly proportions, featuring bubbling craters and steaming vents. Take one small step for man after the other, and remind yourself that this outrageous slice of landscape is in fact still on Planet Earth.
TO THE MOON
From Taupō to Bay of Plenty
3. GINDULGENCE FESTIVAL
Gindulgence is New Zealand’s premier gin festival, with events in 2023 at Tauranga (November 4), Nelson (November 18) and Wellington (January 20 – 21). The Tauranga one is the one we’re choosing to focus on – set amongt the beaches and volcanic cones of one of New Zealand’s oldest cities, there’ll be free tastings, distiller talks, cocktails and live music. Leave the car keys in your hotel room and grab yourself a G & T in the sun – what a vibe.
GINDULGE YOURSELF
Waikato
4. HOBBITON
“It’s a dangerous business Frodo, going out your door.
“You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.”
Alright, we know: Hobbition isn’t really the nowhere-near-the-beaten-track sort of vibe you subscribe to get lost for – it’s actually one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist destinations. But it’s popular for a reason, and we’re fairly certain Bilbo Baggins and get lost are akin when it comes to travel and adventure. Walk the charming paths and green hills of The Shire, grab a pint at The Green Dragon Inn, get a photo in front of a hobbit hole and boog under the Party Tree like it’s your Eleventy-First birthday.
TO THE SHIRE
West Coast
5. GET SOME WAVES, AND GET SOME FOOD
New Zealand’s answer to Byron Bay is located about 30 minute’s drive west of Hamilton, on the country’s north-west coast. Raglan is a great option for those looking for a little bit of bohemian luxury in rugged natural surroundings. It’s also ideal for those looking to catch a wave, with New Zealand’s longest point break on offer here. At the end of the day, hit up Ulo’s Kitchen – a funky, family-run Japanese restaurant is undoubtedly the trendiest place to eat in the region, with a DJ deck, eclectic décor, fresh food, local craft beer.
EAT SURF REPEAT
6. Night vibes in Auckland
You’ve made it to the big smoke. You’re near the end of your road trip, but it’s not a road trip without getting absolutely lit at least once – fortunately Auckland has you covered. New Zealand’s largest city is in a vibe in a few areas but we reccommend K’ Road, an up and coming section where chilled sundowners and proper disco boogs are equally achievable. Madam George is a modern Peruvian restaurant where you can sample exquisite fare, and a great place to start. Caretaker is an intimate New York-style drinking lounge, and if you’re still going strong later on, InkBar is drum and bass operation open until very late.
READ OUR GUIDE TO AUCKLAND’S NIGHTLIFE
Kerikeri
7. THE ARK
The chequered flag to your road trip is on the northern tip of the island – but this is no frantic to dash to the finish line.
We love The Ark – a small houseboat with its own lake, situated in a tiny corner of the world named Kerikeri, a quaint village with an even quainter pub and a winery.
It’s a little wooden shack docked onto the wharf of the lake, with a deck to sit out and read, drink or get a tan, or maybe all of those. Go for a dip in the lake, and forget about notifications – Zuckerberg can’t get you out here.
