It’s the national airline, so Vietnam Airlines serves up a very different Asian stopover on the way to Europe (it has direct flights to London, Paris and Frankfurt). From Sydney or Melbourne, you’ll fly direct to Ho Chi Minh City, with its combo of local personality and French influences. Colour us crazy, but we’d stop here just for the opportunity to gorge on excellent food. And as much as we love pho and banh mi, this is the chance to head to food streets and night markets for less well-known dishes. (Plus, you can have pho for brekky with iced Vietnamese coffee, so you won’t miss out.)
Try banh xeo (crispy rice pancakes with seafood), bun mam (noodle soup with fermented fish broth, seafood and pork belly) or anything else that looks tempting. Stretch your legs before getting back on the plane checking out the War Remnants Museum, Saigon Opera House and the Reunification Palace. The Cu Chi Tunnels are just 90 minutes away, so you can even organise a day tour. Last but hardly least, kick back and have one of the city’s famous massages.
I believe in love at first sight. You know that feeling you get when you catch a glimpse of a stranger and everything slows right down? Your heart skips a beat and you ask yourself, “Why have I bothered with anything else up until now?”
At the water’s edge we pull up our Nissan N-Trek Navara and hop out, the turquoise waves of Shark Bay lapping at our feet. Hermit crabs scurry off into the distance and hungry gulls squawk overhead in search of their next meal. My wife and I look at each other and marvel at what we’ve accomplished in the past 14 hours of driving. The journey, however, was merely the obligatory courtship period required for the start of any good relationship.
As the sun rises behind us and we both look back at Steep Point, mainland Australia’s most westerly outcrop, it’s time to get down to business. Despite the early hour, the Dirk Hartog Explorer, a makeshift barge specifically designed to transport a single 4WD and camper trailer from the beach, approaches the shoreline and we drive carefully onto the deck.
Its skipper is a burly, unshaven West Australian named Keiran Wardle, who wears a Bisley shirt and a strong, wide smile. Keiran fires up the Explorer’s motors and, as we leave mainland Australia, I look across to Dirk Hartog Island already convinced this is a love affair that will last.
Dirk Hartog lies about 900 kilometres northwest of Perth, past the point where canary yellow canola fields make way for that unmistakable West Australian red dirt. From the turn-off to Shark Bay conservation area it’s another three- to four-hour adventure, even for the most experienced off-road enthusiast. The corrugation along this route is bone-rattling and, as you turn off Useless Loop Road onto the Steep Point 4WD track, you cross ashen saltpans and manoeuvre your vehicle over thick sand dunes with virtually no air in your tyres. The experience is equally exhilarating and exhausting.
After the short water crossing, we arrive at what I pictured the edge of the world to look like. The 80-kilometre-long finger of land is mostly flat and craggy through the middle. Enormous rocky cliffs force back the wild Indian Ocean on one side; on the other 190-metre-high Sahara-like sand dunes shift in the wind.
It’s spring and magenta wildflowers and sun-tinged scrub explode with life on the roadside, helping to guide our 45-minute journey from the southern arrival point to the ecolodge set on protected Homestead Bay on the eastern side of the island.
It’s here we begin to realise Dirk Hartog Island has a knack for creating unlikely love stories. Either you fall in love with the place yourself – as I already have – or lose your heart to another and remain forever.
Keiran Wardle’s grandfather, Sir Thomas Wardle, was one of the first to fall under the place’s mystic charm. An Australian supermarket baron in the 1950s, he acquired the pastoral lease for the island in 1968 and took over its sheep station. He loved it so much, Keiran explains, he would “just come up here fishing all the time with his mates”.
Soon after the lease became his, however, his business interests crashed. He fled to the island, but it became mostly off limits to the rest of his family. Kieran first returned as a six-year-old, but it was at 18 that he was asked to help run the station for a few weeks. His true love of island life then began to solidify.
Like all good love stories, fate would intervene and a young apprentice chef from Melbourne named Tory would soon also get a call to help, this time with meals for weary workers. Her visit was supposed to last just a few weeks, but it stretched into marriage, three children and now a thriving eco-tourism business. If you haven’t found romance yourself, forget about Fiji – turns out the real Love Island is in the west.
In 1991, when the West Australian Government decided it wouldn’t renew expiring pastoral leases, it had already earmarked Dirk Hartog as a national park. This move, along with diminishing wool prices, gave the Wardles an idea. They saw an opportunity to negotiate the acquisition of more freehold land for tourism and, in return, they’d assist with the rejuvenation of the island’s ecological heritage.
Kieran’s grandfather had already significantly reduced sheep numbers – he’d even attempted his own species reintroduction process – but now the flock would be completely removed from the island. So too were the goats and a significant population of feral cats.
The change over the past 10 years, says Kieran, has been dramatic. Vegetation has returned, dunes have retained their shape and bird species are now coming home. “I reckon they’re dinosaur footprints,” he says with boyish enthusiasm, as he traces his finger across some coloured dots he’s made on blurry iPhone photos. “We’ve just got to get an archaeologist over here to verify it.”
As he’s talking, I imagine it’s this enthusiasm for new discoveries that has kept him so enamoured by the island for decades.
While there’s no guarantee the island’s history is prehistoric, it is certain this is the location of the first European landing on soil that is now known as Australia. Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog carved his name into a pewter plate in 1616 and nailed it to a wooden post at what would become known as Cape Inscription at the north end of the island. But today’s history is being written by the Wardles at their ecolodge, ocean villa and new camping facilities on Homestead Bay.
For those looking for a little more comfort, the converted limestone shearer’s lodge features six well-appointed rooms with 180-degree views of the bay. These are fully catered by Tory, who somehow manages to assemble a breakfast, lunch and dinner worthy of some of the best hotels in the country despite being in the middle of nowhere.
The ocean villa sleeps up to 12 people in three separate rooms. There are also camping sites aplenty, which fill rapidly during school holidays. Kieran’s self-imposed cap of just 20 cars on the island at any one time ensures a sense of remoteness is retained and the impact on the environment is low.
On our first day, from the balcony, we see a dugong feeding out in the bay. The next morning, as the sun rises, a manta ray hunts in the shallows. But this choose-your-own-adventure holiday destination also allows you to leave the lodge each morning with a packed lunch to discover the island’s pristine hidden corners.
Following Kieran’s directions on a map, I push the Nissan over a ridge before parking it and clambering over some rocks feeling like a young Charles Darwin. Walking down to the water’s edge, I watch as dozens of small nervous sharks gather in the shallows of Surf Point, their fins cutting the surface as they whip one another into a feeding frenzy. If they were a few metres longer it would be truly terrifying.
Kieran and his family have their secret spots, too. We are given directions to Stowk Cove (the name is made up of the initial of each family member – Sanchi, Tory, Oli, Will and Kieran), but there is another favourite family spot where the boys and their father regularly camp under the stars. Here they dive in the mornings with whale sharks that are migrating north to the more popular tourist spot of Exmouth.
Thanks to Kieran and Tory, Dirk Hartog Island has a bright future. But their biggest accomplishment to date, despite having no supermarket, no mechanic, no doctor, no plumber, no cleaner or full-time chef, is creating a world-class destination unshackled by the need to run livestock in order to survive.
At the time of writing, an unfinished cafe and bar dubbed Inscription sits overlooking the bay adjacent to the ecolodge. Negotiations with the state government for a liquor license are complicated and ongoing, but Kieran is unperturbed by the delay. It’s like he knows something we don’t. Could it be the result of needing to be an eternal optimist in a place where life is always on a knife’s edge?
On our last night on Dirk Hartog, we follow the Wardles and a few other guests into the dusk across the towering sand dunes towards a spot known as Herald Heights.
They make this trip regularly with visitors as an opportunity to catch Australia’s last sunset. “If you don’t count Christmas Island,” says Kieran, smiling once again. Tory cracks a bottle of champagne and, against the setting sun, I grab my wife’s hand, feeling terribly romanced by Dirk Hartog’s evening charm. I look over at Kieran who has his arm around Tory’s shoulders and I realise this place offers much more than just love at first sight. Falling for a place like Dirk Hartog Island is everlasting.
Caves conjure visions of tight squeezes, claustrophobia and dark, scary spaces. Not on Maewo in Vanuatu, where Moon Cave is spacious and lit with rays of sunlight that strike the water and create an iridescent yet eerie glow. Swimming here on a hot day is a must and so is engaging your guide to explain its cultural stories.
Serving as an important site to the community, Moon Cave helps locals share their story of creation and, in particular, the ways it’s influenced by the direction the sun and moon take as they travel across the sky. Hearing this new cosmological perspective will undoubtedly make you look up and wonder. Moon Cave also features ancient cave writings and an impressive amount of stalactites.
Maewo is off the beaten track, so if you’re seeking an authentic Pacific Island adventure, this is going to fit the bill. Don’t expect everything to be perfect though – part of the adventure is the rustic experience.
Get off the grid and ease into island time – it’s real and, rather than being measured in minutes, it’s all about chats and connections. Be sure to visit villages and ask about the gardens. Most people live here in tune to nature’s rhythms and, yes, that means seasonal home-grown fruit and vegetables dug directly from the garden to your plate each night.
When you dip your face into the sea at Uri Marine Park, colours will explode before your eyes. It surely is the real deal when it comes to snorkelling.
Uri is off the seriously remote tropical island of Malekula, and has a coral reef that would give anything in Queensland a run for its money. Best of all, there’s not another tourist in sight, so you can forget where you are, let go and float your worries away.
Expect to see giant clam shells on the sea floor and huge turtles glide past you surrounded by schools of exotic tropical fish, including translucent houndfish that look as though they’ve got straws for noses. If you’re super lucky you might even see a majestic dugong swim past. The soft coral is an epic combination of purple, lime green, pink and tan. This is as good as it gets.
Once you have finished you snorkel, you’ll be greeted by the locals kids, who’ll have come down for a swim and a chat after school. Nothing on here is touristy or flashy – accommodation comes in the form of basic bungalows constructed from bamboo. There’s no power and no fuss, but everything is idyllic and perfect. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle, Uri Marine Park is your place.
The jungle is thick, green and steamy and you will be caked in sweat. It will run rivers down your arms and chin. No need to despair though, there is a heavenly aqua pool surrounded by limestone rock at the base ofthe waterfall where you don’t even have to change into your swimmers to enjoy. It’s laidback and pretty casual here on Malekula Island, Vanuatu, everything is done with a laugh and a smile.
There’s not a man-made structure in sight. It’s all just green and lush. There are butterflies, bird song, splashing and laughter. This is what you want when you come to the pacific – nature at its most magnificent.
Vanuatu may not be on the tourist radar yet, and that’s exactly the attraction. There’s no luxury resorts on Malekula Island. Outside the capital city, there’s no electricity and very little infrastructure. The roads are a bumpy adventure in themselves.
A visit to Losinwei waterfall is easy to organise once you’re on Malekula Island especially if you’re in the north near Norsup airport and Lakatoro, the capital city of this province. Just ask your host to arrange a guide and bus to the base of the short walk. You don’t need to book ahead. Things here work at their own pace and everything is done with a smile.
While you’re lazing in the pool you can devour freshly cut pawpaw and banana and wash it down with green coconut juice straight from the coconut. If this sounds like heaven to you…it’s because it is. After a dip, there’s tons of time for relaxing and taking in the bush and beautiful falls.
The Losinwei Jungle Waterfall trip includes cultural dances, a 3 day bush walk, some visits to an old cannibal site and viewing traditional canoes that Malekula Island is famous for. There’s tons to do…you can either lay on your back and let the soothing falls wash away your worries or you can explore deep into the jungle.
We promise you there’s no music festival in the world that is as unique and awe inspiring as the water-drumming, singing ladies of the sea at Gaua Island, Vanuatu.
The Ëtëtung or water music is a soothing, sonic and visual experience where ladies in hand woven costumes adorned with tropical flowers and beat a calming, hypnotic rhythm with their arms and bodies by lashing, splashing, scooping, slapping, skimming, swirling at the water while singing traditional song.
Each song is not only a deep water beat that you can feel and hear but also a whimsical song sung by the ladies in their local language. Stories and tales are shared. While you may not understand it all, you sure will feel it. The women’s eyes are alive with joy and participation is encouraged, so if you’re brave enough you’ll be invited to join in the dance.
If you’re looking for a truly unique cultural experience, this one is hard to beat. So is Gaua Island. It’s remote, wild and full of adventure.
If visiting an authentic tribe in their forest and flowered environment isn’t awe inspiring enough, the energy hits another level once the male warriors stomp dust, begin to sing their throaty chants and start to dance.
While not every dance is a war dance, let’s be honest…with a history of cannibalism, chiefs with multiple wives and alternative beliefs, the people of Malekula Island in the Vanuatu archipelago certainly have some pretty wild and wonderful stories to share. You are in for a real treat because telling a tale, which is known locally as ‘storian’, is one of the national pass times.
Malekula is one of Vanuatu’s 14 main islands and the second largest in the archipelago. It lies between the popular tourist destination of Espiritu Santo and the island of Efate where the capital Port Vila is located but Malekula is still quite remote and is shrouded in mystery.
Nothing in this tour is overtly commercial or touristy. As you sit in the ancient Malekula tribal forested homelands you will notice that there may not be any wifi but the air will be charged with spirit and energy. And best of all, the locals are known for being the friendliest people on earth. There will always be a laugh and genuine kindness.
For a slice of true blue nostalgia, get yourself down to the Gold Coast’s newest watering hole, Rosella’s. Inspired by good old-fashioned Aussie culture, the walls are appropriately adorned with slang-inspired art (‘flamin’ galah’ and ‘budgie smuggler’ feature heavily) and the space has an old-school pub vibe about it.
You’ll definitely feel at home here knocking back a couple of ice-cold tinnies after a day in the Burleigh surf. The menu is a playful homage to all things Australiana. Think cocktails inspired by Zooper Dooper icy poles and every Aussie kid’s favourite cereal, Nutri-Grain (the drink is called the Ironman, of course), served alongside fancy Vegemite jaffles and oysters served in Styrofoam eskies. You’re in for a bloody ripper of a time.
If it wasn’t for the Kiwi accents, you’d be forgiven for thinking you had stumbled upon one of Moscow’s finest drinking dens. Home to more than 150 varieties of the clear spirit, Auckland’s Vodka Room lives up to its name, serving rare and limited-edition drops, house-made infused varieties (cookie dough, anyone?) and flights of different voddies for the indecisive among us.
Any vodka drinker knows a solid sesh calls for a hearty feed, and the modern Russian menu doesn’t disappoint, with vareniki (potato and cheese dumplings), blini rolls, caviar and borsch just some of the drool-worthy options that should help fend off potential hangovers. Kick on in the private karaoke rooms, where ‘press for vodka’ buttons ensure you’re in good shape to give the performance of a lifetime.
The stunning Pacific Islands aren’t just synonymous with paradise – they are paradise! Well, that is if you consider clean, white stretches of sand being lapped by warm azure-blue water and fringed by tropical forests to be paradise. Then there’s the small villages full of friendly locals, amazing wildlife and almost constant sunshine. But it has got to be the warm, relaxing atmosphere that really makes the Pacific Islands such a heavenly place – it invigorates the soul and even the most stressed-out person can’t help but feel relaxed and pampered when visiting.
There are approximately 25,000 islands dotting the Pacific Ocean, and these are divided into the three primary groups of Micronesia, Melanesia and Polynesia. We say approximately, because there are possibly some still to be discovered, and many are so remote that they haven’t yet been fully explored. So unless you want a Cast Away experience, you’re better off sticking to the larger, inhabited islands.
The best and most accessible region for visitors from Australia is Melanesia, which contains Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia. And the best way to get there? Via a cruise ship with Carnival Cruise Line, of course. Here’s why you should experience the Pacific Islands on a cruise at least once in your life…
The name Fiji is probably one you’ve heard before, and that’s because the tropical oasis is one of the region’s most visited destinations. Having said that, its popularity does not take away from its pristine beauty and relaxed island vibes. Fiji is made up of 333 spectacular islands, each boasting beautiful beaches, amazing diving sites and colourful reefs, as well as smiling locals and all the mod-cons you’d expect from a luxury resort island.
There are so many things you can explore along the shores of this nirvana-like paradise, such as…
– Dive or snorkel among a rainbow of soft corals
– Take a longboat to visit Nailililili Historical Village
– Explore beautiful Taveuni Island with its lush forests and spectacular volcanic mountain
– Experience the fascinating island culture during a live show
– Take the plunge on a river rafting expedition
– Relax in a natural thermal pool
JOURNEY TO VANUATU
This scattered archipelago of more than 80 islands is the place to go if you want to combine adventure with relaxation. You can hike up an active volcano one minute, then come back down for a swim and a drink of kava with the local ni-Van people the next.
With stunning beaches, rugged rainforests, unbeatable diving spots (a few with shipwrecks!) and so much more, you’ll always find something to do in Vanuatu.
If you’re on a Carnival cruise, you can also…
– Experience Vanuatu’s ancient culture during a village visit
– Get the adrenaline pumping on a flying fox adventure through the Emerald Forest
– Try out zorbing at Wet ‘n’ Wild Adventure Park
– Enjoy a horseback safari
– Embark on a snorkelling trip to discover spectacular marine life
– Lounge under cool, cascading waterfalls (image the photos!)
Imagine an unspoiled tropical paradise with picturesque scenery and beaches that would make any professional photographer weak at the knees. Now add in a healthy dose of French culture and you’ll get some idea of what New Caledonia is like. Another destination that offers plenty of action, it’s also home to a UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon, plus many more natural wonders.
Make sure you also…
– Relax on the white-sand beaches of the Isle of Pines
– Visit Lifou’s phenomenal forest and secret grotto
– Enjoy a guided Segway tour in Forest Parc
– Take a fun Zodiac ride to Duck Island
– Try stand-up paddle boarding at lovely Kuendu Beach
– See Noumea via the popular yellow Tchou Tchou train
DO IT ALL!
If that sounds like the makings of your dream holiday, you’ll be glad to know these experiences are available on a Carnival South Pacific cruise. In fact, you’ll also have more than 45 activities to choose from while you’re onboard, including mini golf, dive-in movies, a waterpark, Camp Ocean for the kids, plus a variety of bars for the adults to enjoy.
Carnival Splendor is now sailing from Sydney to the Pacific Islands. Join us on a cruise for an experience like no other!
(
