“What do you know about wine?” “I know I like to drink it.” “Good enough place to start I suppose.” Roxy says, chewing on an orange rind. It’s about 10am here in Dayton, Oregon. Too early for my room to be ready but not too early to grab a cold Guinness at the By Pass Bar, which is a good enough place to start my wine education in the famous Willamette Valley.
We have some of the best here. Wine that is.
“I don’t drink much of it myself,” Roxy said through sips of a makeshift michelada staring at my camera on the bar, “but I know we have some of the best here. Wine that is. What kind of camera is that?” I yank on the Sailboat clip to release the well-worn A7 from my straps and pass it over to her. “Just a Sony. She’s seen things.” I offer to explain her bruises. Holding the camera gingerly Roxy nods, “I have a camera kinda like this, but I don’t know how to use it.” “I’ll be back in on Sunday morning for kid karaoke, bring it by then I’ll give you a quick run down.”
Years of practice have me finishing a pint of Guinness pretty fast. By the time I reach the dregs of this one, I’d been invited to dinner, seen a photo album of what the town used to look like in the 50’s, and learnt that the only thing that got the great big fuzzy potato of a bulldog up from behind the bar was the sound of a can of cocktail weenies being opened. This is a friendly valley.
The Inn at Dayton is a wild departure from the earthy patina of the By Pass. Newly crafted from a reclaimed historic building, it’s light and airy, and well-appointed with the attention of a small-town B&B. It overlooks the town square on one side, and the old gravel road heading to the river on the other. A wine and cheese mixer is offered everyday around 4pm for all guests, and if you need anything after 10pm, there’s a number for you to call. I drop my bags, make a quick Nespresso, and head out for wine country.
Willamette is a beautiful contradiction.
An hour from the city of Portland injects you into the rolling river valley, where quiet poverty and manicured affluence mingle gayly. Settled by some of the hardest people on the planet, then transformed into a serious contender of European wine dominance, this brackish mix of Americana by way of Bordeaux is sublime, much like the wine I was about to indulge in.
“Intoxicating, isn’t it?” the greeter from Chahalem Estates says as she fills my bulbous glass with fresh Pinot Noir. “The wine and the view…” she says with a smile and she’s not wrong. Picturesque isn’t a fine enough description, with the rows of chartreuse vines stretching over undulating waves earth into endless hills. Norman Rockwell red barns jetting out of their green slipstream, as the sun decides to break through the bleak gray blanket of clouds, switching the channels from drab TCM to colorama Cartoon Network.
This isn’t wine tasting; this is a lifestyle.
Chehalem couldn’t do what they do any better. The location is idyllic, the wine world class, and the people beautiful. Hospitality is as rich as their reds as I sit down in an impossibly beautiful room where the view is so epic it’s almost uncomfortable. Thankfully the food takes control of my attention as I nosh on fresh baked focaccia, bavette with wine reduction, and a desert sampling that had me asking for a second tasting.
Feeling overwhelmed, I get up to walk off everything. Heading deep into the pine forest I meet up with Black Tie Tours where I’m greeted by an exceptionally happy Golden Labradoodle who just can’t get enough belly rubs it seems.
“She’s raring to go,” Stefan our guide says from under a flat, wool cap, “should be a good day for truffles,” he says with a smile as a small group of us trail into the forest following a wagging tail. Before we can even feel remotely lost, she picks up the scent and begins to feverishly dig at the base of a pine tree. Stefan takes a knee and with a small utility knife gently carves out the earth like a surgeon and releases its treasure. I could smell it from 10 feet away.
In his hand a golf sized perfect white truffle. Delicate, fragrant and worth hundreds of dollars, he drops it in the oversized pockets of his waxed canvas jacket. Walking around the lush, emerald, ancient forest with this happy pup, digging up gold, and chatting with strangers is a fine way to spend the afternoon. After about a half hour Stefan’s pockets are full, and we’d worked up quite an appetite.
Back at the modest but elegant farmhouse Philip Price, a local world class chef, cooks haute cuisine on an open fire cowboy style. We share a moment outside where he confesses “I wanted to do something classic French, but like we do it out here. Raw.” Fresh roasted root vegetables, truffle leak bisque, heritage lamb a poivre, and of course truffled lavender ice cream grace the long, wood banquet table, each course perfectly paired with a glass of local grape. I give Stefan and his amazing team a truly heartfelt bravo on building such an exquisite experience.
“Well, I’d like to take credit, but it’s kinda in my blood.” He humbly educates me on how his father and grandfather were the first to pioneer foraging out here before anyone even considered it. “It’s a beautiful resource we have, and a unique experience. We do everything by hand, local, and organic, and we supply some of the world’s best truffles to the world’s best restaurants. Dad would have been very proud.”
Glowing after such a decadent experience, I descend back into the charming town of Newberg, and just when I think I can’t possibly drink any more wine, I find myself surrounded by a sea of “char-heads”. The Oregon Chardonnay Celebration erupts from the sprawling luxury of the Allison Inn and Spa where chardonnay flows like water as dozens of vintners come to share their gold in a glass.
One ticket price lets you sample as much as you like, making it not just a celebration of good grape, but a celebration of stamina as well.
Thankfully the Allison has an exquisite restaurant helmed by native chef and James Beard nom Jack Strong, who provides locally sourced sustenance to perfectly balance the tidal wave of fun juice you’ve no doubt just had.
At some point the vineyards close their doors to tasters. Fortunately, Willamette valley is more than just a one-note, or should I say wine-note destination. In Newberg you can have one of the most exquisite meals of your life at the 1859 Joel Palmer farmhouse, where a seemingly endless array of ambrosia by world renown chef Christopher Czarnecki enchants you in a historic setting.
Then there’s the quaint town of McMinnville whose historic 3rd Street (which is definitely better than First and Second hands down) has lots to offer. From amazing eateries like Alea’s bakery with their impossibly savory down-home cheddar biscuits to the elevated farm-to-table-seriously-sensationally-seasonal Hayward masterfully conducted by James Beard nominated chef Kari Shaughnessy.
With stinging nettle farfalle, komatsuna raab, and even a turnip cake, this isn’t a meal you walk away from lightly. Fortunately just down the road are phenomenal watering holes like the funky Hi-Fi or dive-rific Blue Moon Lounge where locals will help you digest the night away. I would suggest closing the night out at NW Cru for Karavino, a bacchanalian take on small town karaoke. Pro tip: have your camera ready.
While just a long weekend, this little pocket of the NorthWest wows me for three days straight with its endless surprises of world class food, unique cultural exploration, stunning beauty, and of course, ever-flowing wine. Sunday morning, I find myself back at the By Pass, where they have kid karaoke.
World class food, unique cultural exploration, stunning beauty, and of course, ever-flowing wine.
Families come down with the little ones and let them take center stage as they chat about the weather, or the new building going up in town, while they sink a morning cocktail. I snap a few pictures as I feel a tap on my back. Swinging around I see Roxy with a coy smile holding an old DSLR camera. A promise is a promise, and this seems like it’s also a great place to end yet another perfect trip.
Get there
Willamette Valley couldn’t be any easier to get to. Fly into PDX international airport, rent a car, and drive an hour and you’re there. You can Rideshare as well – most of the wineries and experiences I had offer free shuttles so you don’t have to drive drunk.
Pro Tip: Black Tie Tours offers lots of different experiences but their truffle hunt does sell out quick and for good reason. Book in advance.
Pro Tip II: The Valley is a ridiculously friendly place. Definitely go out, strike up a conversation and meet new people. You don’t need to make plans, they will steer you in the right direction.
Stay There
The Inn at Dayton is a brand new historic, luxury property, with white glove service that makes you feel like you’re on the riviera while giving you that home-town vibes of Willamette Valley.
520 3rd St, Dayton, OR 97114. +15033001907
Get In the Know
The Chardonnay Celebration is no joke. Dozens of world class wineries come to share what is one of their most popular grape. Events like this aren’t usually open to the public, but this one is, so grab tickets in advance, and be ready to sample a lot of amazing wine.
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