You possibly don’t know a whole lot about Sudan, but this is a country blessed with an extraordinary history and culture. Did you know, for instance, it has three times the number of pyramids found in Egypt?
A new history-focussed tour by Arcadia Expeditions – Sudan: The Three Niles – digs deep into this extraordinary and enigmatic country and explores its rich archeological sites and fascinating antiquity.
Lead by acclaimed historian, filmmaker and photojournalist David Adams, the expedition delves deep into the story of the Three Niles and the incredible cultures that grew around them.
History and culture buffs will be frothing as David explores the ancient course of the Yellow Nile, the Napatean fortress of Ghala Abu Hamed, and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites of Meroe and Jebel Barkal.
You’ll witness Sufi whirling dervishes, attend a Nubian wrestling match and get a behind-the-scenes tour of the National Museum.
Once all the artefacts have been studied, there’s downtime on Sudan’s rarely visited Red Sea coast aboard an Italian-owned schooner, where the days are spent exploring remote islands and pristine reefs.
If ramshackle beach bars are your thing, then Escape 3 Points is paradise. Sitting pretty at the southernmost tip of Ghana, the bar offers a chill zone on a secluded sweep of silica that’s flanked by two rivers that flow to the sea and bordered by mango trees and coconut palms. With chairs and tables assembled from driftwood, recycled green bottles forming a couple of makeshift walls and nothing but sand below your soles, the feel is so exceptionally rustic that you might think the establishment coined the term.
The fruit and spices grown in Escape’s very own organic garden infuse its homemade akpeteshie, a Ghanaian moonshine made by distilling palm wine or sugar cane. Though for the less adventurous the regular gamut of cocktails, wine and beer are all on offer. With a drink in hand, relax in the comfort of your own wooden throne as the sun sinks over the Atlantic. The solar-powered speakers will provide the perfect soundtrack to your own slice of paradise.
Quaff the finest wines on a cycling adventure through the motley landscape of South Africa’s wine regions as you peddle past desert dunes, forested mountains and sapphire waters. The circular route, beginning in Cape Town, will see you ride along tarmac roads – with a couple of climbs thrown in – to the famed Boschendal Winery and sampling a drop or two from one of the 29 cellars located at Rosenview Winery in Stellenbosch.
Other highlights include standing on Cape Agulhas, South Africa’s southernmost point; sinking local beers at the Birkenhead brewery; spotting southern right whales in Hermanus; and cycling one of South Africa’s most jaw-dropping circuits, the Cape Argus route. In the evenings, kick back in your comfortable lodge and toast to a day well spent.
Saddle up on this horseback adventure that traverses what might well be the world’s oldest desert, the Namib in Southern Africa. This 10-night crusade across challenging terrain requires four to eight hours of riding each day, so only experienced horsefolks need apply. Your route begins near the settlement of Solitaire, crosses the Naukluft Mountains then continues towards the Namib Desert. It can be rough going and, at times, you’ll need to dismount to cover tricky territory. Of course, none of that will matter once you’re galloping, wind whipping your hair, past a tower of giraffes or a herd of springboks. By the time you reach the dunes of coastal Swakopmund, you’ll have clocked in almost 300 kilometres of riding, camping under the stars in between. If you’re up to the demands, there’s little chance this horseback desert voyage will disappoint. In hindsight maybe even your glutes will thank you. inthesaddle.com
What do you get when you swap sand for snow and dunes for glaciers? A white desert. That’s right, deserts aren’t strictly characterised by hot, hostile conditions and sand as far as the eye can see. With an icy, largely uninhabitable landscape devoid of vegetation, Antarctica qualifies too. Which is why we couldn’t have a list of awesome yet desolate experiences and not include White Desert, a once-in-a-lifetime Antarctic journey. The voyage begins in Cape Town, where you board the private White Desert jet bound for the exclusive six-pod Whichaway Camp, your base for the duration of your stay in Antarctica. While the pods look more like a settlement on Mars than luxury lodgings, inside you’ll find plush throws, timber furnishings and rich textures. The expeditions, which range from a one-day, fly-in fly-out tour to an incredible eight-day trip, give you the opportunity to venture where very few humans get the chance to tread. We’re talking getting up close and personal with a 6,000-strong emperor penguin colony, wandering through glowing neon blue ice caves or travelling to the lowest point on earth, the South Pole. white-desert.com
Protected from the harsh elements of the Southern Utah desert by nothing more than a rocky, rugged escarpment, luxury hotel Amangiri appears like a too-beautiful-to-be-real mirage. Minimalist lines and neutral tones allow the luxe digs to blend into their age-wearied backdrop, while concrete walls, timber fittings and blackened steel elements serve to enhance the features of the natural surroundings. Private pools, courtyards or rooftop terraces adjoin each of the 34 suites, further ensuring the desert landscape remains the focal point for visitors. If you do manage to tear yourself away from the stunning vistas, adventure awaits in the form of dawn hot-air balloon rides, rock climbing and horseback riding. Navajo guides are also on hand to share stories, traditions and ritual dances. Amangiri’s open-plan kitchen, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows to maximise the ever-changing outlook, is the ideal dining location, the views matched only by the impeccable quality of the food. Your tummy will rumble at the sight of traditional southwestern dishes served with a modern twist. It may look like an mirage, but we’re sure glad this desert oasis is real. aman.com
What’s the last thing you’d expect to see tucked away in the far-flung sand banks of the United Arab Emirates? We’re guessing you didn’t just say the world’s largest surf pool, but that’s exactly what you’ll find at Wadi Adventure, a world-class water-based adventure park on the outskirts of the palm-fringed city of Al Ain. At 150 metres in length, with a maximum depth of 2.4 metres and the capacity to generate three-metre-high waves every 90 seconds, this surf pool is one super impressive man-made accomplishment. Considering Kelly Slater, a legend of the surfing industry, has taken to the Wadi Adventure waves, you know this place is legit. While the chance to hang 10 in the middle of the desert is as good as any reason to visit, Wadi Adventure is also home to the world’s longest man-made white-water channels. The complex has hosted the Middle East’s World Rafting Championships and serves as an elite training ground for the UAE National Rafting team as well as other kayaking professionals. Forget the water slides and kiddie pools of Wet’n’Wild, this is one seriously soaked experience in the desert. wadiadventure.ae
It’s hard to believe the biggest thrills in Las Vegas happen about 30 minutes from the famous Strip. And, no, we’re not talking about a hedonistic pool party or an all-night club. This is dirty, dusty and easily the biggest injection of adrenaline you’ll have in years. Strap yourself into a dune buggy and hit the bumpy tracks of the Mojave Desert with the guys from Vegas Off Road Tours. This is definitely no ‘stay in line and follow at slow speed’ experience. Far from it, actually. An instructor in full denim overalls and looking a bit like Jeff Lebowski offers up a few instructions before thrill-seekers hit the accelerator: “Don’t go too hard on the corners. Some dude died out here last week. Not with us… But watch your turns. Oh, and keep up.” With that he’ll shoot through in a cloud of Mojave dust. During the following two hours of insanity there are times when you’ll be sure all four wheels leave the ground, as well as moments when you – whether you’re driving or reluctantly filling the passenger seat – will find yourself screaming from a combination of fear and exhilaration. The trip ends with local craft beers and a barbecue lunch at the Pioneer Hotel. Viva Las Vegas indeed! vegasoffroadtours.com
A treehouse like no other. The most captivating suites at this unusual beach resort are wrapped in the limbs of baobab trees. Each has two storeys where you can shelter from the sun while staring out towards the salt flats and waterways that eventually become the Atlantic Ocean. Those who prefer to keep their feet on terra firma can choose a cabin surrounded by bright bougainvillea or one on stilts over the water.
Visit a local village, kayak through the mangroves or watch flocks of pelicans from your sanctuary, but be sure to return when hunger strikes – meals are prepared by French chefs who exploit the abundance of local produce. The resort is four hours south of Dakar, Senegal’s capital, but worth the trip to see a different side of this former French colony.
Take a walk on the wild side in Zambia. Your adventure begins at Victoria Falls, where 540 million litres of water thunder over a precipice each minute. Next, try your luck at glimpsing another of Africa’s wonders, the white rhino, while hiking upriver past zebras and giraffes in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. After catching a flight a thousand kilometres to the north-east, you’ll meet with an expert guide who will lead you through South Luangwa National Park on foot.
Your next five days will be spent tracking elephants, giraffes, hippos and lions through some of the most pristine land on the continent under their watchful eye. Dust and heat might become the norm, but nights will be spent in luxury. And as you watch wildlife wander by your canvas tent at Tena Tena Camp (the name translates to ‘temporary home’), you’ll wish you were a permanent fixture.
Most people associate Uganda with wildlife safaris, not summiting peaks. But a trek through the Rwenzori Mountains to the crest of Margherita Peak offers both. Take your first steps through montane forest, where you’ll spot chimpanzees and, if you’re lucky, L’Hoest’s monkeys, distinguished by their characteristic white beards. Then feel the burn as you begin the steep ascent; first, along a winding path deep into thickets of bamboo, and again through Namusangi Valley to sheer cliffs and thundering falls.
When you reach Bamwanjara Pass, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic vistas of glacial lakes below and snowy peaks above, and perhaps a sighting of the endemic scarlet-tufted malachite sunbird. Then, under the cover of darkness, boost yourself up frost-free rocks before making the final scramble to the summit of Margherita Peak and its jaw-dropping views.
Everyone else is on safari, so you’ll have this unique slice of Uganda all to yourself.
With its ancient cities, arid deserts and mountains steeped in history, Morocco is a haven for the intrepid traveller. And on Byroad Travel’s 17-day Moroccan Mosaic tour you’ll see all its greatest hits. Get lost in the maze of 9,500 streets and alleys in the world’s largest medina in Fez and sample plump olives at the Djemaa el-Fna market in Marrakech.
Leave the well-trodden path behind and delve into towns like Salé, which once harboured Berber Muslim pirates; Chefchaouen, an otherworldly city awash in blue; and Tétouan, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed town at the foothills of the Rif Mountains near the Mediterranean Sea. In the evenings, ride by camel across Saharan dunes or simply look to the star-studded sky before snuggling up in a boutique kasbah with the sweet scent of mint tea to lull you to sleep.
SUV, RV, scooter, 1970s Volkswagen Beetle – anything goes during the annual Put Foot Rally. And entrants can expect the same loosey-goosey approach when it comes to almost every element of the race, which the coordinators declare is definitely “not a race”. A lack of organisation, resources and a general mentality of insouciance is held in high regard on this “roughly, sort of, in the region of 8000-kilometre” rally, and responsibility for organising the route, accommodation, food and insurance rests with you. Meander through six southern African nations – South Africa (Cape Town is the starting point), Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique – stopping at six different checkpoints for six different parties in 19 days.
The goal of Put Foot is to leave a charitable footprint behind through its foundation. Money raised goes to providing school shoes for children and helping to save endangered animals, some of which you may encounter during your travels. NB: do not feed the wildlife, or allow the wildlife to feed on you.
It’s possibly the most flagrant display of animal cruelty I’ve ever witnessed. Moments after being tenderised mercilessly with a blunt-edged instrument, the victim is thrown onto a searing metal grate above a bed of hot coals. There, it’s pricked, prodded and tossed about until it’s barely recognisable.
Grid patterns score its flesh and sea salt is flung into its wounds. Who knew such abuse could be so mouth-watering?
In South Africa, the braai – an Afrikaans word meaning to grill – is the perfect excuse to gather with friends and family. With South Africa’s chequered history, you could say it brings the country together.
Even Heritage Day, a public holiday celebrated on 24 September each year, is affectionately known as Braai Day.
The love of meat cooked over an open fire, traditionally fuelled by wood and often charcoal (but never gas) is something all South Africans share. It cuts through ethnicity, race and class. In the 11 official languages spoken in the Rainbow Nation braai is the only word recognised by all. Where Australians have MasterChef, South Africa has Ultimate Braai Master.
The bloodied carcass being thrown around our braai is a sirloin fillet, though cuts of ostrich, bok (antelope) and wildebeest aren’t unheard of, particularly in rural areas up north. Sharing the grill is an unsightly curl of boerewors (farmer’s sausage), similarly flung around with reckless abandon. Each skin has been stuffed with minced beef, pork or lamb and seasoned by a fiery blend of herbs and spices introduced by seventeenth-century Asian slave labourers. It smells great, tastes better and looks truly awful.
I’ve anticipated this meal since I flew into Johannesburg two weeks ago. For seven years I lived in the Middle East, often socialising with South African expats and gorging on barbecued slabs of marinated beef, lamb and chicken. Here in their homeland, though, the opportunity for me to indulge in a braai has, thus far, proved elusive.
The problem is that I’ve been holed up in various five-star establishments. Diddums, you say. But while I’ve certainly enjoyed their indulgent offerings, the buffet dinners served up night after night lack the intimacy of a backyard cookout.
On this particular evening I’m standing on the patio of a friend’s cottage in the Cape Town seaside suburb of Fish Hoek. The sound of ocean breakers can be heard dispersing against the sand two blocks away and the last burning vestiges of sunlight reflect in the clouds, much like the charcoal embers glowing beneath the boerewors. Another Capetonian friend from those years in the Arabian Gulf brandishes a pair of tongs, clasping our meal as a heron might a fish.
Gareth flips the meat and tosses it around the grill, ensuring it’s evenly cooked. Watching his constant jostling drives me nuts – I adhere to a less is best philosophy when it comes to steak – but I dare not challenge him. The man with the tongs wields the power and etiquette dictates that advice can be sought but not forced.
Potatoes baking inside a blanket of foil rest on the coals while appetisers are spread on an adjacent table. Sides of coleslaw, garlic bread and warm butternut pumpkin salad baked with cream and chakalaka, a much-loved local vegetable relish, are brought out to complete the meal. In northern provinces, they might also prepare pap – a maize porridge that can be eaten dry and crumbling or dampened with rich gravy.
Each of us cradles a cold dop, the Afrikaans word for drink. In this instance, the dop is a stubby, but it might just as easily be wine, especially around Cape Town, where bountiful ‘wine farms’ produce decent pinotages and sauvignon blancs for as little as AU$5 a bottle. Brandy is another local drop we forgo this night.
Whenever the Springboks rugby team is playing, or the Proteas cricketers, fans organise braais around them. You’re expected to be able to cheer on a national team with a full stomach here. But tonight the television stays off, and conversation hums around the hearth – what some here call the ‘African TV’.
For now, I’ll just cheer on the process. Their barbecue technique is unfamiliar, but that’s not to say they do it wrong. Far from it. When you can savour the beautiful South African climate with a cold dop in hand and the warm glow of the fire nearby – especially with old friends to keep you company – it’s impossible not to feel that this is how life is meant to be lived.
INGREDIENTS
1 medium butternut pumpkin
250ml cream
1 can Hot and Spicy Chakalaka*
METHOD
Peel and dice the butternut pumpkin, discarding the seeds. Place the flesh in a casserole dish and pour the cream and chakalaka over the top. Mix to make sure the pumpkin is evenly covered. Put the dish in a preheated oven set to 180°C for 60 to 90 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender. Serve warm.
* Chakalaka is a curried tomato, carrot, capsicum and cabbage sauce available online from South African Products.
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